hey thanks, looking for some information on welding the rear spiders up. been doing alot of asking just about everywhere. but the answers are mixed. i bought my jeep about a year ago and finally desided to use her for a trail rig. i own other vehical and i dont need another one on the road. some say depending on the rear end and what your doing with it just go weld it up. my rig is never on the road. i'm surrounded by woods, rivers, bog, mud, ect. i just need a good straight answer. i have other parts rigs. if you have any input that would be great or if you can piont me in the right direction. thanks chech out my profile if you need jeep specs

 

if you have a d35, you risk snapping an axle if you run tires any larger than stock. there is just too much torque.

if you have the c8.25, you stand a better chance.

just be sure to remove the carrier when you weld it up and cover your ring gear or remove it so you don't get spatter on it.

i think it would be a lot easier to just get yourself a mini spool or lunchbox locker tho.

 

Most people that have issues with it do because they're not skilled enough welders to do it right.

The welds need to be done by someone who knows what they're doing with a quality 220 machine, not someone who taught themselves to weld in their home garage.

 

Welding is free though if you have access to a welder and know how to use it, and even if you need to pay someone else to do it its still considerably cheaper then any locker (new anyway) and there are no mini-spool options for a 8.25". Personally I like the predictability of a welded/spooled rear rather then the herky jerky tendencies of a ratcheting locker anyway. Like said a D35 isn't gonna last long welded for any heavy offroad use, BUT it won't last long any other way either so six in one hand half dozen in the other imho. If you do weld it the spiders need to be CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN! Also I've had better luck with the ones I've done by only welding the spiders together and not welding them to the carrier, that way if they do break you can just toss in a new set of spiders and start over rather then have to replace the carrier also. Most of the time people reccomend using a stick welder to do it but filler rod material choice is critical from what I understand, I've used a strong MIG to weld all but one that I've done, only had one break and that was a front diff in one of my old Dakotas, 92 with the tiny 7.25 front diff, it shattered the spiders so I replaced them and left it open afterwards.

 

every weld job ive done was by me, who taught myself in my home garage, with a 140 amp hobart. none of them have cracked or had any issues.

Just because someone taught themselves, doesn't mean they are an idiot. I do several passes and weld the spiders to the carrier themselves.

 

i have the 29 spline Chrysler 8.25. and little or no on road driving. this rig will be used for off road fun only. i have a extra set of axles on hand. my uncle said he would do the welding, he is a heavy equipment welder. so i can get it welded for free. how long will the welded axle last. if a can get a year out of it great. thank for your input. trying to do it on a budget. and parts are not hard to find.

 

for an offroad only rig. just do it. you will be glad you did.

 

it could last a day or it could last 10 years.

just have it welded right and know when to let off the throttle, and it will last.

 

thanks guys i'll let you know how it goes.

 

Obviously there's exceptions to every rule, but your average back yard, self taught welder isn't capable of doing spider gears effectively. Though it may hold for a few years due to there being so much weld in there, you can't get real penetration on them with a 140. The gears are too thick, hell you really don't get proper penetration on 1/4" steel with a 140.

Not saying it's not doable, but there's definitely a much higher risk of grenading your axle. I'm also not calling or implying anyone is an idiot, it's just not as straight forward as it seems if you want it to last for years.

 

Agreed.

 

I used a 220volt 175 mig welder to weld up my spiders but i put a 1/4 peice of plate in between the spiders as bridge, welded spiders with three welds on each corner and then welded the spiders to the plate steel. remember to clean the gears properly before and after welding removing slag is a most and i change diff fluid after 500 miles. but i also have a magnet inside my diffcover.

 

My front is welded. I used a 250 miller. I wouldn't do one with any thing less than 200 amps.
Make sure its clean.
Weld the side gears to the case, then the spiders to the side gears. You can add metal. The more weld area the better. If you have a smaller machine, adding a bridge plate like mentioned earlier will help.
If done properly, you shouldnt have any issues with it.

 

Not to steal this thread but I am so confused, how does welding the spider gears lock the axle? I just get the idea that you need to spider gears to move in order to get the axle to move

 

Essentially, you just weld them together so both wheels spin at the same speed... I think?