Tricks to squeezing an extra mile to the gallon???
#16
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
im with you.. i run mine on the open road 75mph on 4" and 33's and im getting 17.6 mpg. I gps'd my last tank since the speedo is off. i dont do jackrabbit starts and the magic rpm on mine seems to be 2300 to keep the best gas mileage and i manually downshift to 3rd up long hills to keep from giving it gas to make it down shift
#17
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.2L bored out 4.0L I6
yeah, i would question those numbers myself, unless you really drive conservatively, i just can't see it adding up. i guess the combined driving helps, i get about 15 combined but I'm on 29s, 4.10s, aw4, and my junk weights 4100 lbs. i also have engine mods which seem to have helped some but i don't always drive conservatively, so maybe thats why i don't get very good mpgz
snorkel with K&N filter
bored TB
highflow cat, FM 40, with turn down
3:55
AX-15
33.25" tires, 55psi
thats about it really. all i can think of
#18
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Location: Western, Pa (5 mins away from ohio border)
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6 (4.0L)
Originally Posted by AoA
I really don't understand how stockers are getting less then 15mpg
look at my rig;
I get 14-15mpg sittin' on 6" of lift, 33's and a roof rack, it just doesn't add up..
look at my rig;
I get 14-15mpg sittin' on 6" of lift, 33's and a roof rack, it just doesn't add up..
#23
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO Straight Six
Routine maintenance is the most important thing. Things like keeping fluids and filters fresh. And regular tune-ups. Check your exhaust manifold for cracks. I'd also replace the upstream o2 for good measure, you may see an MPG out of a new one of those.
#24
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6 (4.0L)
#25
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
The "no lift and 28s" should help you, because that means that you've got minimal aerodynamic drag and minimal rotating mass at the wheels. Check your inflation pressure using the method given, reduce your rolling resistance.
Check your weight - if it doesn't help your vehicle move, it's ballast. Some ballast is necessary, some is preferred, and some can be gotten rid of.
Go through what I've given you so far, and you should see some improvement.
"Fuel efficiency" - engine power output per unit fuel burned
"Fuel economy" - vehicle distance travelled per unit fuel burned
The two ideals are not mutually exclusive, but they are generally reached using separate methods.
#26
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6 (4.0L)
Originally Posted by 5-90
Not really - they may help with fuel efficiency, but not with fuel economy.
The "no lift and 28s" should help you, because that means that you've got minimal aerodynamic drag and minimal rotating mass at the wheels. Check your inflation pressure using the method given, reduce your rolling resistance.
Check your weight - if it doesn't help your vehicle move, it's ballast. Some ballast is necessary, some is preferred, and some can be gotten rid of.
Go through what I've given you so far, and you should see some improvement.
"Fuel efficiency" - engine power output per unit fuel burned
"Fuel economy" - vehicle distance travelled per unit fuel burned
The two ideals are not mutually exclusive, but they are generally reached using separate methods.
#27
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I got a 99. I've done alot to improve on her 16mpg when i first got her.
Now i get 22-24 on the highway and about 17-18 city.And yes I am a grone a$$ man who drives like Miss daisy...Matter-of-fact; she passed me today. I gotta baby her. I work 46 miles, 1 way. So i don't shift above 2200. I do pretty good. I spend less than a 100. bucks a week. so its not bad. I got 36k on my Dts and they still look great. Oh btw im fully trimmed and plan on trimmin the front bumper Friday. I've also got Royal Purple in the diffs,transfer case, and oil.
As I said I run 235 DTs. I have done the Neon mod. I don't run snake oil but i do use Lucas fuel injector cleaner. I just put a cold air intake on it. So now I got a stock size down pipe with no pre-cat and Mudfrog catback with a magnaflow high flow cat. The old one was collapsed. Flowmaster Super40 into reg tailpipe. P&P. The manifold will be done next...and maybe ill gasket match the heads too. I should; but we'll see.
She sounds awesome.I love inlines.
Now i get 22-24 on the highway and about 17-18 city.And yes I am a grone a$$ man who drives like Miss daisy...Matter-of-fact; she passed me today. I gotta baby her. I work 46 miles, 1 way. So i don't shift above 2200. I do pretty good. I spend less than a 100. bucks a week. so its not bad. I got 36k on my Dts and they still look great. Oh btw im fully trimmed and plan on trimmin the front bumper Friday. I've also got Royal Purple in the diffs,transfer case, and oil.
As I said I run 235 DTs. I have done the Neon mod. I don't run snake oil but i do use Lucas fuel injector cleaner. I just put a cold air intake on it. So now I got a stock size down pipe with no pre-cat and Mudfrog catback with a magnaflow high flow cat. The old one was collapsed. Flowmaster Super40 into reg tailpipe. P&P. The manifold will be done next...and maybe ill gasket match the heads too. I should; but we'll see.
She sounds awesome.I love inlines.
Last edited by OEJ; 07-19-2012 at 02:36 AM.
#28
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Year: '99, '97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4L
I've got these in everything I own gas powered
http://www.fitchcatalyst.com/automobiles.php
Yes it works, the high mile old black gets 20 and change highway. I picked up from 23 to 25 in my recently aquired 99 with the F 300 inline installed, hopefully when I install the cruise control i'll squeeze a bit more out
http://www.fitchcatalyst.com/automobiles.php
Yes it works, the high mile old black gets 20 and change highway. I picked up from 23 to 25 in my recently aquired 99 with the F 300 inline installed, hopefully when I install the cruise control i'll squeeze a bit more out
#29
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
I just inflated my tires when I got the vehicle thursday so that's a check, and as far as extra weigh goes I just have the full sized spare, rear seat, and a few floor/trunk matts... the vehicle is fairly empty considering I just recently got it, would it be worth removing the rear seat for awhile???
@OEJ - change your shifting strategy. It's not about keeping the engine at low crankshaft speeds, it's about keeping it at peak torque. If you have a five-speed, you have more control, try cruising about 2600-2800rpm and see what happens. As I've said before, I quit using fifth gear in my 88, and gained 3mpg or so! Ignoring the "Upshift" lamp also helped, until I got around to taking the bulb out...
#30
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Probably not - it's only 30-40#. And, make sure you haven't overinflated (which causes rapid tyre wear) or underinflated (rapid tyre wear and hits fuel economy.)
@OEJ - change your shifting strategy. It's not about keeping the engine at low crankshaft speeds, it's about keeping it at peak torque. If you have a five-speed, you have more control, try cruising about 2600-2800rpm and see what happens. As I've said before, I quit using fifth gear in my 88, and gained 3mpg or so! Ignoring the "Upshift" lamp also helped, until I got around to taking the bulb out...
@OEJ - change your shifting strategy. It's not about keeping the engine at low crankshaft speeds, it's about keeping it at peak torque. If you have a five-speed, you have more control, try cruising about 2600-2800rpm and see what happens. As I've said before, I quit using fifth gear in my 88, and gained 3mpg or so! Ignoring the "Upshift" lamp also helped, until I got around to taking the bulb out...