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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 08:59 PM
  #1  
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Default Thermostats

What do you guys think is best 160, 180, or 195 stock? I also found a 192 with a bigger opening for more coolant flow. I live in Big Bear so for the winter I would like to know if the 180 would produce heat for the heater?
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 06:13 PM
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that's a question only your car knows= the hotter }"T" will keep flow in the radiator longer hence cooling it but also in the engine longer heating it ;engine flushed and bo dcaleing, running well,no carbon in or around cylinders, talk to a physic
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 09:26 PM
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Why do you want more flow? Over heating?
Make sure the fan clutch(should speed up when t-stat opens and radiator is hot) and electric fan (comes on w/AC and around 225-235) work properly.

for emissions to run clean the engine temp needs to be over 195. Too cold will cause the engine to run rich.

You should still get heat with a 180 if you heater core is not restriced or clogged.

I've fount that the Stant Superstats (if that's the high flow one you found) don't fit well in the small 4.0 t-stat housings.

I run the stock 195, flush the coolant every couple years, and use long life coolant.
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 09:39 PM
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got a buddy running the 180F here in SD his wont warm up and he is only running a 2 row alum rad. mine doesn't get that warm with the 3 row copper and stock 195. i would keep the 195 if i was you...
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 09:49 PM
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Here in WI 180 has plenty of heat even on those -20 days. And on the days the heat index is over 100 it takes longer at a stop for the E-fan to kick on. Keep in mind when road driving I just have the factory E-fan. When I am wheeling I turn the other one on.
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by brutalxj
Here in WI 180 has plenty of heat even on those -20 days. And on the days the heat index is over 100 it takes longer at a stop for the E-fan to kick on. Keep in mind when road driving I just have the factory E-fan. When I am wheeling I turn the other one on.
i wonder if its the wind here we don't get much under -30F here but with windchill its -70F at times
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 09:10 AM
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-70 windchills? damn that's cold!

A 180 will produce heat fine for the winter time. a 195 would be better since that is what the Jeep calls for. In super cold climates, you could do what the truckers do and block part of the radiator so the air doesn't cool it instantly. This would be a perfect time to have electric fans and not the clutch fan. The clutch fan spins constantly so it's cooling as soon as the Jeep is started making it harder to warm up. The electric fans would only come on when the computer calls for it. In the warmer months they work well too because there is less drag on the motor. So you get the best of both worlds.
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by cdawall
i wonder if its the wind here we don't get much under -30F here but with windchill its -70F at times
Wind chill here gets around there.

Moving to chat.
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by lynskynbnd
Why do you want more flow? Over heating?
Make sure the fan clutch(should speed up when t-stat opens and radiator is hot) and electric fan (comes on w/AC and around 225-235) work properly.

for emissions to run clean the engine temp needs to be over 195. Too cold will cause the engine to run rich.

You should still get heat with a 180 if you heater core is not restriced or clogged.

I've fount that the Stant Superstats (if that's the high flow one you found) don't fit well in the small 4.0 t-stat housings.

I run the stock 195, flush the coolant every couple years, and use long life coolant.
I will go with the 192 with a bigger opening. Why you ask? Why not have more coolant flow? I just got 3 core all aluminum radiator in and hi-flow water pump.
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBear
I will go with the 192 with a bigger opening. Why you ask? Why not have more coolant flow? I just got 3 core all aluminum radiator in and hi-flow water pump.
Hey man, I saw your pics and the parts look pretty awesome. I haven't really looked in to the high flow pump or the 3 row rads yet. But, I haven't had any reason to need them either. But I had a few questions on it if you don't mind me asking.
1. Which brand t-stat did you find a 192 degree in? I've only seen 160,180, or 195. I know it's only 3 degrees but curious to know the make.
2. Why exactly do you need the more flow? Is it because of the extra rows in radiator? If so I assume that you could not run that rad alone then?
Thanks.
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 12:59 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Lyon
Hey man, I saw your pics and the parts look pretty awesome. I haven't really looked in to the high flow pump or the 3 row rads yet. But, I haven't had any reason to need them either. But I had a few questions on it if you don't mind me asking.
1. Which brand t-stat did you find a 192 degree in? I've only seen 160,180, or 195. I know it's only 3 degrees but curious to know the make.
2. Why exactly do you need the more flow? Is it because of the extra rows in radiator? If so I assume that you could not run that rad alone then?
Thanks.

Why not? LOL the better flow of coolant the better PERIOD!
I am sure you could use the radiator with out the water pump upgrade.
But....Why not? LOL the tstat I found is a Duralast.

Larger than OEM opening allowing for up to 50% increase in coolant flow. Triple bridge opening design for increased stability and strength. Manufactured from high quality components to meet the demanding conditions of the automotive cooling system. Manufactured with OEM specifications and processes. Copper case and wax compound assures rapid response to temperature changes in the coolant. Offset design, air relief valve, and OEM style seals included where applicable. Larger than OEM opening allowing for up to 50% increase in coolant flow. Triple bridge opening design for increased stability and strength.
  • Larger opening for increased coolant flow
  • Increased strength and durability
  • High grade stainless steel and copper construction
  • Meets or exceeds OEM standards
  • Consistent and precise response to cooling system needs
  • 100% tested and calibrated
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 05:50 AM
  #12  
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wind chill has no effect on an automobile
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 07:09 AM
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YO Big bear! howdy neighbor ...I live out here in the hell desert and play all year round up in yer hood..i run a 3 row and 195. Zero temp issues...nice heat in winter and run ac all the time wheelin in Truckhaven/Borrego Spings...temp stays right at 200 all the time unless I am climbing the Cajon pass on a hot day and then it only creeps up to about 210 and goes back to normal buy the time I crest the pass... you should be fine with what yer doing..see ya up there sometime
Cameron
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 03:11 AM
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Originally Posted by ck1
YO Big bear! howdy neighbor ...I live out here in the hell desert and play all year round up in yer hood..i run a 3 row and 195. Zero temp issues...nice heat in winter and run ac all the time wheelin in Truckhaven/Borrego Spings...temp stays right at 200 all the time unless I am climbing the Cajon pass on a hot day and then it only creeps up to about 210 and goes back to normal buy the time I crest the pass... you should be fine with what yer doing..see ya up there sometime
Cameron

Thanks fo the info ck1. I just got my hi-flow thermostat housing today!
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 03:12 AM
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Originally Posted by retread
wind chill has no effect on an automobile

Try sleeping in it in a snow storm over night! LMAO
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