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Tcase Drop issue

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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 05:34 PM
  #1  
JeepHeepYoda's Avatar
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From: Conifer CO
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6
Default Tcase Drop issue

My tcase drop kit came with 4 bolts, 4 washers, and 4 spacers. I got to put it on today to find out that I only have three bolts in the cross memeber and one nut that is attached to a thread sticking out of the body. So now I can only put the spacers into 3 of the 4 bolt slots because the 4th isnt a bolt. any ideas as how to get my 4th spacer on to that?
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 05:52 PM
  #2  
UsmclovesXJ's Avatar
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From: Jacksonville, NC
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L HO
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disregard post.

Last edited by UsmclovesXJ; Feb 24, 2012 at 06:02 PM.
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 05:52 PM
  #3  
JeepingDan's Avatar
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From: CT.
Year: 88
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0 HO
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Cut it off.
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 05:52 PM
  #4  
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From: Georgetown, ON
Year: 1998
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Engine: 4L
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you got a welder?
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 06:03 PM
  #5  
JeepHeepYoda's Avatar
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From: Conifer CO
Year: 1998
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Engine: Inline 6
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I unscrewd the nut but with the spacers on all other three the threaded "bolt" doesnt stick out far enough anymore. I would cut it off but then I still have no way to add that 4th spacer and bolt.
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 08:01 PM
  #6  
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From: Eugene, OR
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7 Stroker I6
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there should be 2 bolts and 2 threaded studs" (studs at front) When I did my tcase drop I was confused for a second but the studs need to come out. put both nuts on the stud and lock them together with 2 wreches then remove stud

yay.
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 08:23 PM
  #7  
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From: Clover, S.C.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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OK first thing to know is the threaded bolt thing that had a nut instead of a bolt head is actually a stud. it threads into the frame rails the same as the bolts.

THE STUD HAS A SHOULDER AND THAT SHOULDER WILL NOT PASS THROUGH THE CROSSMEMBER HOLE.

So you need to lower at least one side of the crossmember, then take out the stud. To get it out, soak it with PB blaster. Then you can try double nuts, locked together to loosen it.

This did not work for me & I had to use big vise grips.

I stripped one of the 2 studs frame nuts before I discovered the stud shoulders.

I used a hole saw to cut 1-1/2" holes through the outer sides of the frame rails so I could put nuts on top of the new longer bolts. You may not need to do that.

Also I realize they aren't actually true frame rails, but you'll know what I mean.
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 09:37 PM
  #8  
JeepHeepYoda's Avatar
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From: Conifer CO
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6
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is it a good idea to run with three of the 4 spacers and bolts in??
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 10:08 PM
  #9  
darknezz's Avatar
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From: Eugene, OR
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7 Stroker I6
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Originally Posted by JeepHeepYoda
is it a good idea to run with three of the 4 spacers and bolts in??

did you really just ask this?

I'll disregard....


please its not that complicated, lock nuts together, remove stud. look up you tube videos if needed.

sorry not trying to be a jerk but read whats been said and just finish the job

btw this should totally be in adv tech as it is a modifying oem.
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 12:15 PM
  #10  
JeepHeepYoda's Avatar
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From: Conifer CO
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6
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haha, no,I understand, just worked on my good ole xj for 13 hours yesterday, was hoping for an easier answer hah, I'll get it fixed up today, thanks for the advice guys.
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 12:57 PM
  #11  
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From: Wekiva, FL
Year: 99 sport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
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it is a stud. needs to come out. As said before

hands down the best way to get it out is a BFPW

big ****ing pipe wrench. It comes out like butter
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