On a prior post on this thread, i put links to where you can buy, and what size you will need.

 

Alright, as i promised, i took some pictures and am going to post instructions on how to install an LED tailgate light bar on an SUV. It is easy to install, and looks really nice. OK here we go!

First you will need to buy some double sided padded tape. You can get these from any hardware store, or Walmart. It needs to be rated to be outdoors, so that it will last. The stuff I use, and go back for to mount anything is Scotch Super Strong Interior/Exterior Mounting Tape. I use this for everything, and it is pretty much the same stuff on the light bar already, made by 3M. If you want to buy the same stuff I use, here is the link and use the "where to buy" button on the scotch page.
http://www.scotchbrand.com/wps/porta...glBBR07XLQTGbl

Now take off any tape that the company who made your lightbar put on. The scotch tape is better and will make better contact, and the pads they put on are usually bulky and will not let the light bar fit under the weather stripping. Here is a picture of the tape pads that were screwed onto my light bar, and i just unscrewed the pads:



Alright, now determine whether the light bar will fit underneath the weather stripping of the rear door. You want to be able to put it under the weather stripping, but not be able to see it when looking straight down at the weatherstripping. but you want it as far forward as it will go, without it sticking out. You also want to make sure the leds are pointing straight back. Here is a picture of how mine looks (notice how you can't see the light bar looking straight down, so that it wont get hit by cargo!:





Ok, now if everything measures up, clean the light bar and bumper where the tape will contact with alcohol, I used denatured alcohol.

Now slide the bar into place without tape, and plug it in to see if all the lights can be seen clearly, measure the distance from the edge of the bumper to spots on the bar all the way across making sure the lightbar is pushed far enough back, or far enough forward all the way down the bar, so that it is even. use the right and left blinkers to find out where the center of the bar is exactly, making sure it is pushed to the right or left far enough, i used the rear door metal latch to line it up with the center of the jeep. mark where the bar was with a pencil lightly on the bumper, and on the sides.

Now take the light bar out, and apply tape to bottom side of the light bar, making sure that it has flat contact. Evenly space the tape squares that you have cut out, along the bar. Push the light bar underneath the weatherstripping, without letting tape touch, line everything up with the lines you marked lightly with the pencil, and stick it down. push down hard on the tape spots, and make sure everything has good contact.

Now you have the light bar installation done, but the wiring comes next.
If you have a 4 flat trailer plug just plug the light bar into it. if you don't, you will need to hardwire one in, here is a picture of the door you need to access to install the 4 flat, and to hardwire your reverse in if you got a light bar with reverse. The reverse option requires you to hardwire into your taillights reverse wire because trailers don't have reverse, so it is not needed on the 4 flat trailer connector.



Here is my 4 flat trailer plug plugged into my light bar:


Now to hardwire the reverse in, you need to find the reverse lights power wire. The way i did this was by turning the car on without starting the engine, unless you want to, set the emergency break, and switch it into reverse. the reverse lights will come on without the confusion of finding the break lights power wire and thinking you found the reverse lights power wire. My reverse wire was brown/green as shown in the pic below, (odds are yours might be the same)



Then i just used an in line wire tap, and connected it!

To run my wires into the cab, i just went straight through the weather stripping and did it the fast way. Thats just for now, as i am going to drill a hole in the future and run the wires through the hole, and silicone the hole over so that it is all sealed up professionally. But this works for now! stuff your wires behind the door where you plugged them in and your all done!

Here are more pictures of how i mounted it:









Here are some new better videos of the finished product during the day, and some more pictures of it in action:












Post a reply for anymore help, or PM me!