shooter5635

Hey guys,


What is the STRONGEST threadlocker, as in I never want this bolt moving ever again...ever...?

long story...

Thanks!

Customizer1000

Red loctite, or the ford factory blue stuff,

Thekid320

WELD!!!

shooter5635

Lol sadly, I can't.

What code? I know red is strong, but don't the numbers mean something?

Customizer1000

Don't know bout the numbers, if its something I want to stay together I use red, and o soak it down, it will stay, what bolts r u wanting stuck forever?

Badmunky

JB weld. You will never get out again thou.
I used this to repair stripped threads in a block one time. Broke the bolt off a few years later when I tried to take it out after forgetting that I had put JB weld on it when I put it in. Good stuff.

5-90

If you want to make it a truly solid piece, forget typical threadlocking compounds.

Think more along the lines of something like LocTite #690, "Sleeve Retainer." it's meant to hold in pressed-in sleeves that don't have threads. I've used it on "permanent" screws before when I couldn't weld, and it pretty much requires that you end up burning the screw out, or melting it (going to bright red didn't do it to break the stuff - so I got it red again, cut fuel, and burned the screw out with an oxygen flame.

You can try soldering if you're creative and careful as well - not as good as a weld (probably won't hold as well as the Sleeve Retainer,) but better than most LocTite.

You can also try "staking" the screw in place - after you've torqued it, either deform the threads around the working end or bunch up material against a side of the head, using a hammer and punch.

Or, drill & tap next to the screw to accept another screw, torque and retain. Position the secondary screw so that it will butt up against the side of the first.

There are plenty of ways to manage a "permanent" assembly - some are permanent, some can be serviced readily. What are you working on, and why do you want it to be fixed in place so solidly?

metaldemon7

Locktite also makes a primer spray 747 to use first. It works to clean everything, and make a better bond. If it is in a really hot place, use the high temp 20RC. Other wise use the red 271. The stuff for sleeves is good also, but I don't have a number for that. It has been awhile seen I used that, or the liquid steel.

shooter5635

My buddies bike crank arm keeps coming loose and he doesn't want to drop the $200 plus to get it replaced with something comparable so we came to me looking for answers.

When can i get that retainer stuff? The press on application...?

ClaytonXJ

What 5-90 said. Green. I've also seen it called bearing retainer. Red is not very strong. We get the green stuff from a supplier at work so I'm not sure where you would get it but I would assume almost any auto parts or hardware store would have it.

5-90

"Green Loctite" (#272?) is different from "Sleeve Retainer" - check an MRO or industrial supply house for the stuff.

If it's a nut on a stud, put the nut on the ground and stake threads on one side to deform them (thread on the good threads first.) If it's a screw, deform the threads on the screw in two or three places somewhere up from the very end (you'll want good threads to get started.) Deformed threads tend to work even better than most grades of LocTite, but may still be serviced.

If you check most automotive suspension nuts, you'll see a triangle stamped into many of them - that's where the nut was staked at the factory to deform the outer threads.

This works very well - it depends on the innate elasticity of the metal and its resistance to being deformed. It is possible to go too far with thread deformation - you should still be able to identify it as a thread, but the deformity should be readily visible in the thread profile. But, this is my preferred method (if I need more than that, I'll deform threads and then apply LocTite #242 - that way, I can still remove the thing if I need to. It's nearly guaranteed that you'll have to pull it off once you've made it truly permanent...