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Should I buy this?

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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 10:32 PM
  #1  
bivirden117's Avatar
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Default Should I buy this?

Hey all, going to look at a jeep tomorrow and wanted to get a few opinions before I pull the trigger on it (possibly this weekend)...

Bone stock 1999 XJ Sport, 4x4, 4.0HO @ 169,000 -- the A/C compressor is broken/has been removed and there's no headliner. I'm going to look over/test drive it tomorrow as well as having a mechanic at the local Jeep dealer give it a run down.

Only asking $2500 right now, ya'll think that's fair or I could get more off of it? The cheaper the better.

Thanks!
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 10:36 PM
  #2  
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From: Midland, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 l6
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I paid 2900 for my fiancea, + 200 in gas. There and back twice.

Came with 206k, and everything it has on it....

31 inch bfg all terrains, 95% tread, 3 inch budgget rough country lift.

The miles on that are decent ask for but how much is that ac compressor

Last edited by ClegSJE_99XJ; Jun 11, 2014 at 10:39 PM.
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 04:39 AM
  #3  
andrewmp6's Avatar
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Prices depends where you live,It could be cheap or it could be high hard to say with out knowing where you live.To get a good idea look around craigslist,kelley blue book and nadaguides
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 05:26 AM
  #4  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by andrewmp6
Prices depends where you live,It could be cheap or it could be high hard to say with out knowing where you live.To get a good idea look around craigslist,kelley blue book and nadaguides
+1

You should be able to buy a fully functional non-messed up XJ for that money.

Rust is always the deciding factor IMO
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 08:07 AM
  #5  
Fred/N0AZZ's Avatar
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From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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As said location is a big factor as well as rust a biggie. I paid $1800 for mine asking price $2400 had a cheap 3" lift, 31" tires (50%) and new 15x8" Cragar steel wheels on it. Everything worked except for transfer case would not go into 4L (linkage adj. only), shocks were bent and bad, windshield cracked, needed brakes bad (that was a surprise).

Crawl all over/under and note all that you see wrong, you need to have some idea what its worth and cost to have it fixed, you need that to bargain.

Good luck and hope to see you back soon.
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 10:12 AM
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Thanks for the advice, I'm out of Nashville TN by the way so the price is personally the lowest I've seen for this mileage. KBB says $3000 for 'good' condition. I'll be going over it very carefully with a mechanic, especially for rust.

I'll check back after I get under it later today!
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 02:03 PM
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From: Fort Worth, TX
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by bivirden117
Thanks for the advice, I'm out of Nashville TN by the way so the price is personally the lowest I've seen for this mileage. KBB says $3000 for 'good' condition. I'll be going over it very carefully with a mechanic, especially for rust.

I'll check back after I get under it later today!
Paid $1850 for mine also with no a/c and a trashed headliner. Mine needed the tires replaced very soon (did it the 2nd day i owned it) Mine has 267k miles and im completely confident in it. Id show up with a wad of cash and pull out what you think is fair.
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 02:12 PM
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Default tryn to post sale add

I just joined but I can not post a for sale ad I have a 97 Cherokee sport 2 door unmolested with cold air and 4.0 with 5 sp.
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Pauledanerously
I just joined but I can not post a for sale ad I have a 97 Cherokee sport 2 door unmolested with cold air and 4.0 with 5 sp.
For sale? Where at?
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 03:14 PM
  #10  
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*Update*

Test drove it today, not sure how I feel about it right now. Engine and transmission seem fine, fluids were good and clean, although the tranny did seem to stick a couple of times upon acceleration from a stop -- would sit at around 2000rpm until you got going, then act normal again. Also, oil pressure gauge fluctuated right around even as I drove and sometimes moved as I accelerated.

So the good:

- 169,000 miles, was a postal/company vehicle for the first 100,000
- Engine and tranny seem sound

The bad:

- Steering had more play in it than I would have liked
- Interior is pretty rough, no headliner, some trim missing, pretty wore out
- Noticed a little rust on the rocker panels

Trying to decide if it's worth paying a dealership ~$90 bucks to give it a really good inspection. Any advice appreciated!
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 07:02 PM
  #11  
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From: Oroville, CA
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Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
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Rusty rockers means walk away from it, there will be more rust under the carpet.
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Old Jun 13, 2014 | 05:13 PM
  #12  
salad's Avatar
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From: Parham, ON
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Oil pressure gauge is supposed to fluctutate and increase with engine RPM - that means the engine is working. New cars have fake gauges.

Hella expensive for a rustbucket in the south... shifting problems... interior is screwed... fleet vehicles are usually abused... AVOID
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Old Jun 13, 2014 | 05:49 PM
  #13  
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From: Oroville, CA
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Originally Posted by salad
Oil pressure gauge is supposed to fluctutate and increase with engine RPM - that means the engine is working. New cars have fake gauges. Hella expensive for a rustbucket in the south... shifting problems... interior is screwed... fleet vehicles are usually abused... AVOID
I work on fleet vehicles for a living, abused is a kind word for what fleet rigs go through. By the time a vehicle goes to a fleet auction it's pretty used up and on its last leg. Sometimes there is a gem that falls through the cracks and is in good shape at auction time. I have seen a few that went to auction with new engines or transmissions, but they tend to go at a premium price. A lot of fleet vehicles get pencil whip services and are held together with bailing wire and duct tape, but not my fleet.
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Old Jun 13, 2014 | 10:43 PM
  #14  
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$1000-$1500, max. XJs are a dime a dozen if you don't live on the West coast. Even if you're in the rust belt it's cheaper to travel south/east and drive a cheaper, solid unibody back.
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Old Jun 13, 2014 | 10:43 PM
  #15  
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Seems fair to me just inspect the head real good
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