Short arm flex critics
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Joined: Dec 2011
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I feel like I have crappy flex compared to some people on here lol. I got a 3" and 30s. Sway bars still connected, slight longer shots in the rear, stock shocks up front. In the pic I was in 4wd and had to kinda go up with a purpose lol. Any ideas?
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I don't run swaybars. I don't feel they are needed even for saftey.
At least eliminate the rear sway bars. This will help you.
Basically offroading without swaybars turns your jeep into a much more capable rig.
If you don't off road, or just lightly go off road. Then you are probably fine the way you are.
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you could the most built suspension out there, thousands invested, longarms, long shocks, etc, and flex no better than stock if your swaybars are connected.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
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I feel like I have crappy flex compared to some people on here lol. I got a 3" and 30s. Sway bars still connected, slight longer shots in the rear, stock shocks up front. In the pic I was in 4wd and had to kinda go up with a purpose lol. Any ideas?
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Like ktm said, remove the sway bars. longer shocks on the front as well as un-bolted or extended brake lines you will be simply amazed at the difference.
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so you didn't modify the control arms, just did the shock bracket clearance. I was afraid you notched the actual control arm.
whats easier than lowering the control arms at the body just 2" is raising the control arm mounts on the axle about 2". almost everybody does this when they build axles to swap under their rigs. more ground clearance too.
I also don't believe you realize how much travel 14" really is. If you were to fully use all of it, you will need to outboard both of your shock mounts on each side to avoid the body hitting the uniframe when flexing, your coils will begin falling out of the upper bumpstop tower (small coils, and long shocks) and with shortarms your axle will be pulled back a tremendous amount when flexing and you could start to bottom out your driveshaft when at droop.
Myself and most of my buddies are perfectly content running 10" travel shocks in our plenty capable rigs.
here is a 12" shock with 3" coils
those shocks were removed in favor of 10's after this trip.
whats easier than lowering the control arms at the body just 2" is raising the control arm mounts on the axle about 2". almost everybody does this when they build axles to swap under their rigs. more ground clearance too.
I also don't believe you realize how much travel 14" really is. If you were to fully use all of it, you will need to outboard both of your shock mounts on each side to avoid the body hitting the uniframe when flexing, your coils will begin falling out of the upper bumpstop tower (small coils, and long shocks) and with shortarms your axle will be pulled back a tremendous amount when flexing and you could start to bottom out your driveshaft when at droop.
Myself and most of my buddies are perfectly content running 10" travel shocks in our plenty capable rigs.
here is a 12" shock with 3" coils
those shocks were removed in favor of 10's after this trip.
Question on raising the lca. Will I need to raise the upper ones also, or can I get away with just doing the lowers?
Thanks.
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Originally Posted by ChadLunsford
I feel like I have crappy flex compared to some people on here lol. I got a 3" and 30s. Sway bars still connected, slight longer shots in the rear, stock shocks up front. In the pic I was in 4wd and had to kinda go up with a purpose lol. Any ideas?
Rear sway still on
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there are negative handling effects (on and off the road) to just raising the lowers, but you probably won't notice.
Now I havent had a dana 30 in a while, but If I recall the lower arm mounts are slightly below the axle tube and behind it. When most people build axles, they incorporate a small wheelbase stretch into their front end to aid in larger tire clearance, and putting the lower arm mount directly behind the axle tube is a no brainer for this. If you were to just do that to the lower mount using factory length control arms you might push the bottom of your axle too far forward, resulting in very negative caster and a bad pinion angle.
The stock upper mount on a dana 30 that is cast into the center section, isn't exactly easy to relocate either.
CF Veteran
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From: Summerville, Ga
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
The rear is said to make no difference. With F&R removed besides a little more body roll in turns, its not that noticeable until you have to turn fast or drive down the highway at high speeds. I wouldnt recommend running without the front based on a bad experience in my buddys xj with no sways and a flexy 4" lift on the interstate. Im not going to go into the story, but the point is if his jeep wouldnt have had the wide stance it did with 33's I probably wouldnt be here typing this today.
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From: California
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I feel like I have crappy flex compared to some people on here lol. I got a 3" and 30s. Sway bars still connected, slight longer shots in the rear, stock shocks up front. In the pic I was in 4wd and had to kinda go up with a purpose lol. Any ideas?
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Seasoned Member
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Originally Posted by McCaffrey
You have a ramp under a front and opposite rear tire which is changing yours and everybody's mental expectations because almost everybody just lifts a single front. In reality you probably have pretty good flex for having the sway bars connected. The way you've done it is probably better.
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
How is this? I'm on 3 inch and 30's here and 2wd
Rear sway still on