Short arm flex critics
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so you didn't modify the control arms, just did the shock bracket clearance. I was afraid you notched the actual control arm.
whats easier than lowering the control arms at the body just 2" is raising the control arm mounts on the axle about 2". almost everybody does this when they build axles to swap under their rigs. more ground clearance too.
I also don't believe you realize how much travel 14" really is. If you were to fully use all of it, you will need to outboard both of your shock mounts on each side to avoid the body hitting the uniframe when flexing, your coils will begin falling out of the upper bumpstop tower (small coils, and long shocks) and with shortarms your axle will be pulled back a tremendous amount when flexing and you could start to bottom out your driveshaft when at droop.
Myself and most of my buddies are perfectly content running 10" travel shocks in our plenty capable rigs.
here is a 12" shock with 3" coils
those shocks were removed in favor of 10's after this trip.
whats easier than lowering the control arms at the body just 2" is raising the control arm mounts on the axle about 2". almost everybody does this when they build axles to swap under their rigs. more ground clearance too.
I also don't believe you realize how much travel 14" really is. If you were to fully use all of it, you will need to outboard both of your shock mounts on each side to avoid the body hitting the uniframe when flexing, your coils will begin falling out of the upper bumpstop tower (small coils, and long shocks) and with shortarms your axle will be pulled back a tremendous amount when flexing and you could start to bottom out your driveshaft when at droop.
Myself and most of my buddies are perfectly content running 10" travel shocks in our plenty capable rigs.
here is a 12" shock with 3" coils
those shocks were removed in favor of 10's after this trip.
Yes I realized last time that my 10in shocks were only a mm from hitting the body. Actually one side was barely touching. But with your method of modifing the lower shock mount, I can kick the 14in shock out enough to work.
However I see nothing wrong with making the most of a 3in lift and short arms.
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Even though you are a smart ***** you supply some great ideas, so thanks. I will gladly take the comments in exchange for good ideas. LOL
Yes I realized last time that my 10in shocks were only a mm from hitting the body. Actually one side was barely touching. But with your method of modifing the lower shock mount, I can kick the 14in shock out enough to work.
However I see nothing wrong with making the most of a 3in lift.
Yes I realized last time that my 10in shocks were only a mm from hitting the body. Actually one side was barely touching. But with your method of modifing the lower shock mount, I can kick the 14in shock out enough to work.
However I see nothing wrong with making the most of a 3in lift.
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
Any more than that and you're wasting your time.
Over rated? Why are you defending it so much? It seems to matter a lot to you.
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You are right of course. I have been watching the drive shaft also. With 14" shocks, I will have no extension on my bumps. An actual 13in of travel. 1in of cushion(saftey)
Really its the same as having 3in lca drop brackets and no extended bumps. The travel is the same. Most people with LCA drops bump quite a bit, so they don't have the travel.
Really its the same as having 3in lca drop brackets and no extended bumps. The travel is the same. Most people with LCA drops bump quite a bit, so they don't have the travel.
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LIke I stated a few posts back. I enjoy seeing what I can make of the almost stock xj.
I currently run 10in shocks, and I max them out. Really could use 12in shocks as it sits. Since you really don't want to max out the shock completely on both ends.
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With an open diff and one wheel lightly, or not touching the ground, then you have no forward progress.
so flex as you know keeps the wheels on the ground. And will keep you moving even with open diffs in most cases.
Secondly. I am locked in the front.
Thirdly. With 2in more down travel I won't be unseated as much as ktm's picture.
Last edited by holycaveman; Nov 19, 2012 at 09:24 AM.
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From: The Dirty 530
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Renix I6
It was late and I think that my homemade hooch is messing with my head.
Let me clarify: Imo, it was always needs-based, budget based and short term modding for me,
and short arms are fine for the terrain I've encountered so far.
Yes I run drop brackets, but I added them later to improve the ride, and they were within my budget.
Also, I have never run into any trouble with them hanging me up, (again needs-based wheeling here)
I guess I'm just saying that yes, a set of real LA's would be superior,
But I'm happy with my setup. For now.
Secondly, RTI ramps always seem funny to me.
Last edited by fallenknight308; Nov 19, 2012 at 11:12 AM.
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It was late and I think that my homemade hooch is messing with my head.
Let me clarify: Imo, it was always needs-based, budget based and short term modding for me,
and short arms are fine for the terrain I've encountered so far.
Yes I run drop brackets, but I added them later to improve the ride, and they were within my budget.
Also, I have never run into any trouble with them hanging me up, (again needs-based wheeling here)
I guess I'm just saying that yes, a set of real LA's would be superior,
But I'm happy with my setup. For now.
Secondly, RTI ramps always seem funny to me.
Let me clarify: Imo, it was always needs-based, budget based and short term modding for me,
and short arms are fine for the terrain I've encountered so far.
Yes I run drop brackets, but I added them later to improve the ride, and they were within my budget.
Also, I have never run into any trouble with them hanging me up, (again needs-based wheeling here)
I guess I'm just saying that yes, a set of real LA's would be superior,
But I'm happy with my setup. For now.
Secondly, RTI ramps always seem funny to me.
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From: Denver, CO
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i still find this an interesting thread.
i ran las on my last jeep and they worked good, but i am more into simplicity now, and lcog.
wish i could see ktms pics, but at work, all i see is
currently, my jeep is 2.5" front and 3.5" rear. i just installed some cheap 14"/25" shocks, and added BPE. i have about 2.5" uptravel and 8.5" downtravel. i need to add a puck in there.
at this point, i'd do DBs before LAs.
i ran las on my last jeep and they worked good, but i am more into simplicity now, and lcog.
wish i could see ktms pics, but at work, all i see is
currently, my jeep is 2.5" front and 3.5" rear. i just installed some cheap 14"/25" shocks, and added BPE. i have about 2.5" uptravel and 8.5" downtravel. i need to add a puck in there.
at this point, i'd do DBs before LAs.
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I feel like I have crappy flex compared to some people on here lol. I got a 3" and 30s. Sway bars still connected, slight longer shots in the rear, stock shocks up front. In the pic I was in 4wd and had to kinda go up with a purpose lol. Any ideas?
