wmking

I'm looking for recommendations for new short block suppliers. I'm in Texas. Thanks.

andrewmp6

You want oem rebuilt or a stroker ?

wmking

Just an OEM short block. Mine is getting long in the tooth and I'd rather just replace it than rebuild it.

andrewmp6

You could have a local machine shop/engine builder rebuild yours or take them a good core block and crank and swap it out for yours when the time comes.

wmking

I'd considered that but the time and inconvenience isn't worth the savings over buying a short block and swapping the old one out myself.

wmking

Anyone heard anything good/bad about these folks ?

https://www.mabbcomotors.com

andrewmp6

Shipping on a long block is pricey and having it dropped off at your house with a lift gate is pricey.

wmking

Well, any option will probably cost me more than the car is worth but I've had it for 16 years and I (and my kids) love my jeep.

I figure shipping a short block down from Dallas to Austin and doing the swap myself will be a lot cheaper and about the same work as pulling the motor and hauling it to a local rebuilder, but I haven't checked. I should do.

At this point I'm just curious about Mabbco's reputation and whether there are any other local to Texas short block options.

shooptube

How many miles do you have on your current engine? Not trying to tell you what to do but what about a used low mile engine?

wmking

No worries. I'm interested in understanding all my options.

It has about 160K. The problem is that the missus ran it dry one summer and cracked the head. I put on a clearwater head and have been driving it on and off for a couple of years but it still wants to overheat in the Texas summer if stuck in traffic for more than 5 minutes. I'm guessing when the head cracked it got some water in the oil and … before I got a chance to change it.

How much should I expect to pay for a used engine ?

jeepcherokee89

doesn't seem like a short block would help you to me. is your oil milky or antifreeze oily, is your antifreeze dissapearing?

wmking

After the overheating/head crack I had some symptoms of water in the oil but I changed the oil and flushed the system when I installed the clearwater head a couple of years ago. No signs of water in oil or oil in antifreeze since then. System holds pressure, till the cap blows.

With oil pressure around 10-15 when warm, I'm guessing the bearings are worn or rough, hence the overheating in traffic on warm days. Its acting like there is higher than normal friction in one or more bearings.

shooptube

Texas idk but I'm in Michigan and my local yard sells them for $250, you pull it.

As far as overheating goes:

Is your fan shroud still in one piece?

Have you tried a ZJ HD fan clutch?

Is your efan wired to an override switch so you can leave it on in traffic?

wmking

Texas summer ambient: 95 - 110F.

Fan shroud is still in one piece.
No, haven't tried a ZJ clutch.
No override switch, but I can hear the fan turn on and run minutes before the temps get high.

I ran a bottle of stop-leak thru the system after the incident before I realized that the old head was cracked. I also replaced the radiator with a aftermarket (O'Reilleys) piece and back flushed the system with a garden hose using one of those T junctions that you insert into your heater hose so I'm pretty sure my cooling system is operating correctly. Thermostat opens correctly, waterpump was replaced, etc.

I'm convinced I have high internal friction somewhere in one or more bearings due to the original incident and brief exposure to water in the oil.

Turbo X_J

Compression test?