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Which Rear End to Get?

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Old Nov 10, 2012 | 11:24 PM
  #1  
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Default Which Rear End to Get?

I was just going through some online sales sites and see a couple of options. I'd like to get your opinions.

#1 - Jeep rear axle Dana 44 w/disc brake conversion, 3.30 gears w/LSD ($550)

#2 - Jeep rear axle Dana 44, 3.54 gears, open diff, drum brakes ($450)

My Jeep is stock 3.54 and I want to eventually install the PowerTrax No Slip locker and 4.10 gearing. Of course, I'll want to do this in phases. All at once is too much to handle right now.

Given the above info, what's the better deal? On Axle #1, if I install a PowerTrax No Slip locker, would I have to upgrade to a 3.54 gear before I do? On Axle #2, I'm assuming I can buy the locker right away and install. How much would it cost to convert toe disc brakes?

I'm thinking that getting #1, all I have to do is get the 3.54 gears now and I'd have a workable axle with disc brakes and an LSD right away and I can save up for the rest of the upgrades later. Although, with #2, I could drop in the Powertrax locker right away and save up for further upgrades. UNLESS you have to get a locker for gearing you have? I dunno. Hence my question to you. Oh, and I understand that in either case, I'm going to eventuallyhave to change the gears at the same time (from 3.54 to 4.10) on both axles.

Thanks for your input!
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Old Nov 10, 2012 | 11:28 PM
  #2  
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I'm thinking #1 would be the cheapest in the long run. Just make sure not to use 4x4 because you are going to tear out your gears. Change your gear ratio front and back.
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Old Nov 10, 2012 | 11:28 PM
  #3  
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I'd probably get the one with the drum brakes and 3.54 gears. That's if you want to be cheaper now.

As poster above states, pick the first option if you want it to be cheaper in the long run, but don't mind paying a pretty penny immediately.
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 12:12 AM
  #4  
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Is the LSD tied to the gearing? In other words, if I went with #1 and then eventually upgraded both axles to 4.10, would the LSD be useless and I need to get the spider gear from a 4.10 in order to drive the vehicle? Or could I regear to 4.10 and use the LSD until I can save up for the locker?
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 12:12 AM
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sounds like you need to do more research. just get the one with 3.54 gears and swap it in. prices on both seem a bit high..
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Atmos
sounds like you need to do more research. just get the one with 3.54 gears and swap it in. prices on both seem a bit high..
I think they are rather cheap for already having some things already on them.
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 12:16 AM
  #7  
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I'm fairly certain the prices are negotiable.
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 12:23 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by NorCalJeep
I think they are rather cheap for already having some things already on them.
really? what else is there besides the disc brakes. LSD ain't much of an upgrade..
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 07:20 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Ian96XJ
Is the LSD tied to the gearing? In other words, if I went with #1 and then eventually upgraded both axles to 4.10, would the LSD be useless and I need to get the spider gear from a 4.10 in order to drive the vehicle? Or could I regear to 4.10 and use the LSD until I can save up for the locker?
the LSD is useless anyways once you get offroad
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 09:40 AM
  #10  
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Also gonna suggest the second one so your gears will already be matched, and having the open carrier it will open up better locker choices then the No-Slip. I ran a No-Slip before and HATED it, it would unlock and lock at incredibly awkward times going down the road, extremely noisey from day one, and quite expensive for a lunchbox locker. I had a Lock-Rite (the cheaper Powertrax option) it was way less touchy/finicky with how or when it unlocked and locked (albeit still way too much for my tastes) and was honestly quieter, not to mention $200 cheaper. Weld on disc brake "kits" are cheap and most of them will use the even cheaper 80s GM G-body front caliper that can be found at any parts store for less then $20ea even if you don't have a core to return.

Last edited by KotaKid287; Nov 11, 2012 at 09:44 AM.
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 10:09 AM
  #11  
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I'd rather have the first one and not have to deal with a disc conversion. Try to haggle with him to gather more money to do both 4.10s at once.
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 10:13 AM
  #12  
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keep shopping.

better deals pop up on the forums if you are patient.
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 10:24 AM
  #13  
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X2, poke around the boneyards, you just might find what you're looking for.
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 11:26 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by KotaKid287
Also gonna suggest the second one so your gears will already be matched, and having the open carrier it will open up better locker choices then the No-Slip. I ran a No-Slip before and HATED it, it would unlock and lock at incredibly awkward times going down the road, extremely noisey from day one, and quite expensive for a lunchbox locker. I had a Lock-Rite (the cheaper Powertrax option) it was way less touchy/finicky with how or when it unlocked and locked (albeit still way too much for my tastes) and was honestly quieter, not to mention $200 cheaper. Weld on disc brake "kits" are cheap and most of them will use the even cheaper 80s GM G-body front caliper that can be found at any parts store for less then $20ea even if you don't have a core to return.
Hmmm...that's the first time I've heard anything bad about the No-Slip! I've heard it's quiet and practically invisible!
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 11:33 AM
  #15  
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Thanks for the thoughts, guys. Lots to consider. Right now, it's looking like #2 (if he'll come down in price). From there, I'll have a working rig until I can save up for the regearing, lockers, and disc conversion. #1 will prevent me from going into 4wd and force me to spend on gears almost immediately. Discs aren't THAT important right now.

Last edited by Ian96XJ; Nov 11, 2012 at 11:40 AM.
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