Rear axle check
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Location: Yakima, WA
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Straight 6
If the damage isn't obvious there really isn't a simple way to know if a used axle is good or bad without disassembling and inspecting the bearings.
The obvious stuff is pretty easy though, pull the diff cover and check for chipped & broken teeth on the gears. Unless the pinion bearing is so bad you can actually feel play in the pinion you won't be able to tell if it's bad. The same goes for the axle bearings, you won't be able to tell unless you pull and inspect them.
A wrecking yard axle is really a pig in a poke so try and increase the chances of getting a good one by doing the following:
* Try and find one on a vehicle which has low miles and looks like it was taken care of before being totaled. Avoid vehicles which have been junked because they were abandoned, worn out or neglected.
* If you need a front axle get it from a rig which was hit in the rear. If you need a rear axle get it from a rig which was hit in the front. while there is no guarantee, that should help reduce the chances the axle was damaged in the wreck.
* Be wary of buying parts such as axles off vehicles which were obviously used off road unless you are specifically looking for a bargain on an expensive aftermarket locker or custom axle set up. Then be prepared to have the item rebuilt. Some guys take care of their stuff others just beat it until it fails then replace it. Unfortunately there’s no way to tell once it's junked.
* Finally make sure the axle you are buying is geared correctly or you will be in for a nasty surprise the first time you engage four wheel drive.
I bought a used axle for my former CJ many years back because the price was right, the gearing was correct and it had a limited slip dif. I installed it, changed the fluid and it was fine for about a year, then I had an axle bearing go bad. I just decided it was a good time to install new one piece axle shafts, so it worked out for me. Luckily I had the tools and time and knowledge to do all the work myself. I just made the upgrade a little sooner than I planned.
The obvious stuff is pretty easy though, pull the diff cover and check for chipped & broken teeth on the gears. Unless the pinion bearing is so bad you can actually feel play in the pinion you won't be able to tell if it's bad. The same goes for the axle bearings, you won't be able to tell unless you pull and inspect them.
A wrecking yard axle is really a pig in a poke so try and increase the chances of getting a good one by doing the following:
* Try and find one on a vehicle which has low miles and looks like it was taken care of before being totaled. Avoid vehicles which have been junked because they were abandoned, worn out or neglected.
* If you need a front axle get it from a rig which was hit in the rear. If you need a rear axle get it from a rig which was hit in the front. while there is no guarantee, that should help reduce the chances the axle was damaged in the wreck.
* Be wary of buying parts such as axles off vehicles which were obviously used off road unless you are specifically looking for a bargain on an expensive aftermarket locker or custom axle set up. Then be prepared to have the item rebuilt. Some guys take care of their stuff others just beat it until it fails then replace it. Unfortunately there’s no way to tell once it's junked.
* Finally make sure the axle you are buying is geared correctly or you will be in for a nasty surprise the first time you engage four wheel drive.
I bought a used axle for my former CJ many years back because the price was right, the gearing was correct and it had a limited slip dif. I installed it, changed the fluid and it was fine for about a year, then I had an axle bearing go bad. I just decided it was a good time to install new one piece axle shafts, so it worked out for me. Luckily I had the tools and time and knowledge to do all the work myself. I just made the upgrade a little sooner than I planned.
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