Rattle canning my 1998 XJ
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Year: 1998
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Engine: High Output 4.0
Rattle canning my 1998 XJ
I got an XJ back in October and on the hood it has the clear coat coming off pretty badly. Since I'm a poor college kid and I'm also cheap, I thought about rattle canning it myself but I don't really know much about painting. I've done small things like helping my uncle spray paint his offroad bumper and things like that so I feel comfortable with my spray painting skills but I know almost nothing about sanding, other than how to do it. What would be the best grit of sandpaper to use when you're getting off the original paint? Should I sand all the way down to the metal? How many coats of primer should I put on? What grit sandpaper do I use once I've put the primer on? Do you sand the paint before putting clear coat on? If so, what grit do you use and is it an absolute must to use clear coat or would it look fine without it? I'm not expecting the worlds greatest paint job because I know I'm no professional but anything would look better than how it looks now and I'd like to get some experience painting. If this project turns out, I might try rattle canning the whole Jeep because it has quite a few scratches. Any help is greatly appreciated and thanks in advance!
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Year: 1998
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Not the best picture of the clear coat peel but this is the only picture I have on my phone right now.
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Year: 1998
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For right now, it's my daily driver so I'd like it to at least look decent. The scratches on the rest of the body don't really bother me a whole lot but the hood looks awful.
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Year: 1998
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Took a better picture of the hood and I decided to take off the fake hood scoops that came on it because most of the adhesive was coming off them.
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Use a DA Sander with 180 grit to get all the clear off then hit it with 320 to keep it smooth. No need to go down to the metal. The original base coat will act as your primer, so no need to prime either...unless you want to. Lay down a thin first layer then hit it with a nice 2nd coat followed with a wet 3rd coat and call it good.
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Year: 1998
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Use a DA Sander with 180 grit to get all the clear off then hit it with 320 to keep it smooth. No need to go down to the metal. The original base coat will act as your primer, so no need to prime either...unless you want to. Lay down a thin first layer then hit it with a nice 2nd coat followed with a wet 3rd coat and call it good.
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No, you should use the same grit. I just say use a DA because its a pretty large area and using a block will give you a nice workout! Either way will be just fine...one just easier than the other.
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#14
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Year: 1998
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Bought some of the supplies I need to do it today like the sandpaper, sanding block and masking tape. Wish it wasn't so cold and I didn't have to go back to college in a week. I probably won't get to paint it until spring unless the weather decides to get nice between now and then. I can't wait until it gets warm enough to start the project though. I'll keep you updated.
Last edited by cma1996; 01-05-2015 at 11:25 PM.
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Year: 1999
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Engine: Golen 4.6 Stroker, AFE Headers, 62mm TB, 24 LB Injectors, Brown Dog kit, HF Cat, 3" Exhaust
Having both spray painted and done a rustoleum roll on job to a car, the roll on was way easier and turned out way better. Buff it when you are done and the roller marks are gone, clearcoat it and you could never tell... spray paint is very hard on a large area- always turns out cloudy.
I personally would not do either to my jeep but will probably do it to my wifes winter xj beater in the spring.
Good luck man! No garage? It'll still suck in the spring if your outdoors dust/leaves/bugs landing on it lol.
I personally would not do either to my jeep but will probably do it to my wifes winter xj beater in the spring.
Good luck man! No garage? It'll still suck in the spring if your outdoors dust/leaves/bugs landing on it lol.
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