99XJake

i dont know if this is in the right area...wish we had a distinct section for audio and electrical.

I have a pair of door speakers and a 10'' sub in mind but I cant figure out what amp to mate them with.

sub is a rockford fosgate p1 10" sub rms handling is 50-250w

speakers are alpine type R spr60 coax 100w rms handling each

i like to try and match rms as best i can but with this setup im not sure I can afford to match the max handling.

I guess then I'm just wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction amp wise.... I do BELIEVE I can get away with underpowering the sub a little bit given its rms range?

or would it be too complicated/cost worthy to get an amp for the speakers and an amp for the sub?


thanks for any and all help

mr white

Match the RMS values.

Something like this for your speakers:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...t_ONX2100.aspx

and then a monoblock for your sub:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...rt_OA5001.aspx

You could probably get away running 4g power to a block and then 8g to each amp.

You could also do a multi-channel amp if you wanted, would save a little space but may cost a little more to find one that has your requirements.

check woofersetc as well for amps. I wouldn't recommend under powering anything, although if you don't listen to your music so loud that it clips, it doesn't really matter too much.

XJ0nTons

I have a kenwood radio, kicker 51/4 doors and sound bar, one 12in woofer kenwood in a custom made box I made, with a $40 amp from amazon, amp is for sub only, and my jeep sounds awesome bass hits hard, mids and high sound crisp

99XJake

how bout this for all of em?

2 channels for the speakers and bridged for the sub?


i think it just be best to go for a 4 channel...Now...of course I'm not gonna underpower although I forgot to mention my head unit puts out 20 rms...and in the specs it peaks at 50rms over 4 channels 4ohms...i assume that would apply and help my setup...

Its unfortunate probably that ive landed on such an odd combo but i do really want them...
had a weaker rockford fosgate in my last set up as well as slightly weaker infinity 6.5s.

so this is my step up and I'm finding myself with 450watts total rms...kinda annoying but thats what i get...

SO if i get an amp that sends 100watts to each speaker and 200watts to the sub on bridged channels my headunit should in theory make up that difference?



im in a pickle bear with me...

mr white

That's not how it works,sorry. The power from the hu doesn't matter when you have an amp because you're running out The rcas rather than the speaker wire if that helps you visualize. Max power doesn't mean **** btw. You want to go off rms value. Some 4 channel amps you can bridge into three. Some you can't.

XJ0nTons

If you want only one amp here is your answer

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2061DX6....html?tp=35808

99XJake

Okay I understand then...and yes all the numbers I'm using are strictly rms....maybe it's odd that the rockfos sub doesn't give just one number for rms but a range.

mr white

Did you even look at the specs on that?

mr white

I'd feed it at least 250 even though the range starts lower.

XJ0nTons

No I was just saying, use a 5 channel

CrawdadSlim

Yeah your gonna want to give it at least 250. 250 isn't that much power to begin with.

investinwaffles

IDK,
I like my music LOUD so I went with standalone amps. A 4 channel amp for the front two speakers, bridged to 120w per channel (JL Audio 320.4), and a monoblock US Amps 1000w amplifier. I bought both for a great price, in great condition from Ebay.

I opted to only run front speakers because the rear speakers are pointing down and I would rather run really nice components up front compared to mid-range speakers all around.

Subwoofer is a 10" Alpine Type-R receiving ~870w at 4 ohms, in a pre-fabbed sealed enclosure that came really close to the specs of the woofer. Really damn loud for a 10" woofer.

I spent around $450 on the entire setup ($40 for the head unit, $50 for my temporary front speakers, $90 for the woofer, $100 on wiring, etc). Can be done for pretty cheap if you put in the time and effort, and everything is simple and can be done with hand tools.
Lots of gently used parts that were top of the line when they came out, but car audio has not changed much so I didn't really see a point in buying all brand new stuff (and I am cheap).