Please

 

x2

 

yes, please it wouldnt hurt. is there a guide line for specs or just turn it a little?

 

there is on one of the larger jeeps sites. google it because someone also has a step by step guide with pics online somewhere. it will fix that slip when you put it into forward from reverse. i had a 93 laredo (base model) and i had the viscous slip transfer case. that was the common diff. if you find one with something else, thats great. mine never had problems with the viscous clutch in the tc but i didn't like being in 4x4 all the time (except drifting a turn, that was sweet when all the tires where sliding) but it was a great truck and i really wish that chick hadn't smashed it

 

so if i get this 95 zj am i going to have tranny problems down the road?

 

Band Adjustment is not a regularly scheduled maintenance item. In the event of rough shifting, follow the procedure for band adjustment along with fluid change.
Front band (kickdown)
1. The trans. bands should be adjusted as necessary when the fluid and filter are being replaced.
2. The front band adjusting screw is located on the left side of the trans. ahead of where the shifter mechanism is.
3. Loosen the adjusting screw locknut approximately 5 turns, then loosen the adjusting screw a few turns. Make sure the screw turns freely with no binding: lubricate with penetrating oil if needed.
4. Tighten the adjusting screw to the specified torque*, then back it off the number of turns listed*. Hold the screw from turning, then tighten the locknut to the specified torque*.
*Front band:
42RE: Tighten to 72 in-lbs, back off 3-5/8 turns.
42RH: Tighten to 72 in-lbs, back off 2-1/2 turns.
44RE: Tighten to 72 in-lbs, back off 2-1/4 turns.
46RH: Tighten to 72 in-lbs, back off 2-1/2 turns.
46RE: Tighten to 72 in_lbs, back off 2-7/8 turns.
Locknut Torque: 30 Ft. lbs.
Rear band (low-reverse)
1. This requires pan removal as the adjusting screw is inside the pan.
2. Loosen the adjusting screw locknut and back it off 4 turns. Make sure the screw turns freely in the lever.
3. Tighten the adjusting screw to the specified torque*, then back it off the number of turns listed*. Hold the screw from turning, then tighten the locknut to the listed torque*.
4. Install filter and pan and refill.
*Rear band:
42RE: Tighten to 72 in-lbs, back-off 4 turns.
42RH: Tighten to 72 in-lbs, back off 4 turns.
44RE: Tighten to 72 in-lbs, back off 4 turns.
46RH: Tighten to 72 in-lbs, back off 2 turns.
46RE: Tighten to 72 in-lbs, back off 2 turns.
Locknut Torque: 25 FT. Lbs.
Hope that's helpful guys.
Dan

 

I looked it up at work on Mitchell, sounded pretty easy.

 

i dont think thats the right info....ive known a few people with the V-8 ZJs which have the 5.2 in them and they all got about 15 MPGs highway...the ZJ i had with the 4.0, plus a couple other friends of mine with the 4.0 when they were stock, they were got for 22 MPGs highway

and yes, the trannys are a little weak....the best way to buy a ZJ is to find with that doesnt have a hitch bc that means it most likely has never pulled anything so the tranny is still good

i loved my ZJ...mine was a 98...i had a 2 inch spacer lift with 31 inch BFG MTs and black cragar steel rims...

 

It is actually.

And to drummerwookie, my '97 V8 ZJ came with the tow package and the heavy duty cooling package which included an auxiliary trans cooler. So the blanket statement about the hitch doesn't always apply. The aftermarket ones don't have the extra trans cooler from the factory (if they have one at all), so it could apply in those cases. So lots with the factory equipped hitch were also ordered with the heavy duty cooling system which is a very needed feature on a V8 ZJ IMO.
Dan

 

yea thats true...i need to get a tranny cooler for my wj...it came with the factory tow package but no cooler...