newb with super built cherokee
02-13-2014, 12:42 PM
#1
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newb with super built cherokee
Im not new to wheeling and im pretty comfortable driving on/off road and doing my own repairs and such. Im used to driving a stock 92 4.0 lifted with 3.5" and 31" tires.
recently I fell into owning another cherokee I did not build. Here is the list of mods so far that ive found...
-33x12.5 Dynapro's (came with baja mtz, traded those)
-rebuilt engine (im told it was about 50k ago. odometer reads 195k)
-complete rustys steering conversion
-rustys long arm kit with straps
-extendable drive shafts
-locked somehow in the front
-yukon axel shafts and other parts
-steel extended brake cables
-a bunch of frame/body reinforcement
-a rear wiper blade that works lol
-4.56 gears (i think) i did some math to guess. must be wrong.
-some crazy D30 front axel with all sorts of armor. and a rear 8.25 with the same.
-new radiator with a transmission cooler.
-cool custom quick discos for the sway bar
-hella's welded all over the bottom and front end.
-broken/slips out/lose chain transfer case
so far ive just replaced the tps, iac, alternator, and done all the fluids including the transmission.
Needles to say its a bit advanced for anything I've ever used. Is there anything I need to know when im off road? I dont feel like it flexes as much as im used to and it obviously is wayy heavier and slow.Seems to be built for rocks. I dont want to drive it "wrong" if thats even possible.
make sense?
recently I fell into owning another cherokee I did not build. Here is the list of mods so far that ive found...
-33x12.5 Dynapro's (came with baja mtz, traded those)
-rebuilt engine (im told it was about 50k ago. odometer reads 195k)
-complete rustys steering conversion
-rustys long arm kit with straps
-extendable drive shafts
-locked somehow in the front
-yukon axel shafts and other parts
-steel extended brake cables
-a bunch of frame/body reinforcement
-a rear wiper blade that works lol
-4.56 gears (i think) i did some math to guess. must be wrong.
-some crazy D30 front axel with all sorts of armor. and a rear 8.25 with the same.
-new radiator with a transmission cooler.
-cool custom quick discos for the sway bar
-hella's welded all over the bottom and front end.
-broken/slips out/lose chain transfer case
so far ive just replaced the tps, iac, alternator, and done all the fluids including the transmission.
Needles to say its a bit advanced for anything I've ever used. Is there anything I need to know when im off road? I dont feel like it flexes as much as im used to and it obviously is wayy heavier and slow.Seems to be built for rocks. I dont want to drive it "wrong" if thats even possible.
make sense?
Last edited by spiral_energy; 02-13-2014 at 01:19 PM.
02-13-2014, 01:08 PM
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'd like to see what "a bunch" of frame "reinforcement" is exactly. and if it really had 4.56 gears, it would feel pretty darn peppy on 33's
drive it with the skinny pedal and stop it with the braky pedal. you're not gonna hurt it
and I'm sure someone will definitely try to point out that a D35 front axle does not exist in cherokees. it is a D30
oh and also,,,, post pics!
drive it with the skinny pedal and stop it with the braky pedal. you're not gonna hurt it
and I'm sure someone will definitely try to point out that a D35 front axle does not exist in cherokees. it is a D30
oh and also,,,, post pics!
02-13-2014, 01:14 PM
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02-13-2014, 01:26 PM
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I wouldn't call that "super built" (without knowing the lift size it's hard to really determine but I'm guessing either 4.5" or 6"), but it sounds like a decent enough rig. I'm just gonna go down your list and give my .02
- 33" Dynapro's: Not the greatest tire, but not the worst. The MT's are lacking IMO.
- rebuilt engine: Not really sure why a engine with only 145k on it would need a rebuild, but it was 50k ago so you should be good.
- Rusty's steering: Honestly, it's not that great. You really aren't gaining much strength over a ZJ set up. I had it and got rid of it within 200 miles and switched to JCR's 1-ton with an IRO double shear trackbar.
- Rusty's LA w/ straps: The limiting straps and the increased tire size are probably part of what's making you feel like you have less flex. The straps may be too short...maybe. Also see if the sway bars are still connected because those play the biggest factor. Rusty's makes two good things IMO - coils and leaf springs. Other than that, I'm not impressed and I used to run their stuff. For LA kit though, again, they're not the worst, but not the best. Big thing to watch out in their stuff are the bushings as they tend to go quick.
- extendable driveshafts: As is you have a SYE now (I would hope so) and a front driveshaft being used in the rear? That's the most common set up and it's a good one. You could get stronger shafts but most people are fine running the factory fronts. The front driveshaft on the XJ is extendable from the factory.
- locked somehow up front: Figure out how. LSD, lunchbox, selectable? Each has their pro's and cons. Odd that it's not locked in the rear, but, it's not unheard of.
- yukon shafts: Good choice. Nice and strong. Is this front and rear or just on one axle?
- steel brake lines: a must with long arms. Good to know you have these.
- bunch of frame/body reinforcement: as in frame stiffeners? If so, one of the best investments you can make towards any XJ, stock or lifted.
- working rear wiper: YAY!!! You honestly won't use it as much as you think.
- 4.56 gears: typical gearing for 33's. This combo is actually pretty peppy so you may have something else making it "sluggish". Easy way to tell for sure is to jack up the rear and rotate a tire. count the number of times the diff pinion rotates for one tire rotation and you have your gear ratio.
-d35 front/8.25 rear w/ armor: impossible to have a d35 front. Probably still a d30. 8.25 is a better choice than a d35, but is it 27 or 29 spline? Just curious cuz the 27 spline isn't much of an upgrade over the d35. and by armor I'm assuming either diff covers or skid plates which are always a good thing.
- radiator w/ trans cooler: Very good thing. Just be careful with some radiators. If the PO cheaped out you may be getting another one soon.
- custom disconnects: answered my previous question. disconnect these puppies when offroad and let the flex happen.
- hella's: Yay for rock lights! make sure the electrical connections are waterproofed.
- misbehaving tcase chain: yup, happens with age and use. Fix it. Otherwise 4x4 is a no go and that's no fun.
Driving it wrong would be pretty much the same as your other XJ. You'll just need to get used to the long arms (if it's a 3-link) and the locker. You've got a higher center of gravity and expect lower mpg's.
You said you're not new to wheeling so take what you've learned and keep using it and learning more. Sounds like a capable rig so get that t-case chain fixed and go have some fun (just keep it legal) and post some pics for us.
- 33" Dynapro's: Not the greatest tire, but not the worst. The MT's are lacking IMO.
- rebuilt engine: Not really sure why a engine with only 145k on it would need a rebuild, but it was 50k ago so you should be good.
- Rusty's steering: Honestly, it's not that great. You really aren't gaining much strength over a ZJ set up. I had it and got rid of it within 200 miles and switched to JCR's 1-ton with an IRO double shear trackbar.
- Rusty's LA w/ straps: The limiting straps and the increased tire size are probably part of what's making you feel like you have less flex. The straps may be too short...maybe. Also see if the sway bars are still connected because those play the biggest factor. Rusty's makes two good things IMO - coils and leaf springs. Other than that, I'm not impressed and I used to run their stuff. For LA kit though, again, they're not the worst, but not the best. Big thing to watch out in their stuff are the bushings as they tend to go quick.
- extendable driveshafts: As is you have a SYE now (I would hope so) and a front driveshaft being used in the rear? That's the most common set up and it's a good one. You could get stronger shafts but most people are fine running the factory fronts. The front driveshaft on the XJ is extendable from the factory.
- locked somehow up front: Figure out how. LSD, lunchbox, selectable? Each has their pro's and cons. Odd that it's not locked in the rear, but, it's not unheard of.
- yukon shafts: Good choice. Nice and strong. Is this front and rear or just on one axle?
- steel brake lines: a must with long arms. Good to know you have these.
- bunch of frame/body reinforcement: as in frame stiffeners? If so, one of the best investments you can make towards any XJ, stock or lifted.
- working rear wiper: YAY!!! You honestly won't use it as much as you think.
- 4.56 gears: typical gearing for 33's. This combo is actually pretty peppy so you may have something else making it "sluggish". Easy way to tell for sure is to jack up the rear and rotate a tire. count the number of times the diff pinion rotates for one tire rotation and you have your gear ratio.
-d35 front/8.25 rear w/ armor: impossible to have a d35 front. Probably still a d30. 8.25 is a better choice than a d35, but is it 27 or 29 spline? Just curious cuz the 27 spline isn't much of an upgrade over the d35. and by armor I'm assuming either diff covers or skid plates which are always a good thing.
- radiator w/ trans cooler: Very good thing. Just be careful with some radiators. If the PO cheaped out you may be getting another one soon.
- custom disconnects: answered my previous question. disconnect these puppies when offroad and let the flex happen.
- hella's: Yay for rock lights! make sure the electrical connections are waterproofed.
- misbehaving tcase chain: yup, happens with age and use. Fix it. Otherwise 4x4 is a no go and that's no fun.
Driving it wrong would be pretty much the same as your other XJ. You'll just need to get used to the long arms (if it's a 3-link) and the locker. You've got a higher center of gravity and expect lower mpg's.
You said you're not new to wheeling so take what you've learned and keep using it and learning more. Sounds like a capable rig so get that t-case chain fixed and go have some fun (just keep it legal) and post some pics for us.
Last edited by no rdplz; 02-13-2014 at 01:41 PM.
02-13-2014, 01:39 PM
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This is the only one I have right now. It appears to have pro comp leafs and shackles, with pro comp shocks. Coils and spacers up front too. I'm not sure how tall it is. After taking another look underneath the tie rod says Rockproof.
Last edited by spiral_energy; 02-13-2014 at 02:05 PM.
02-14-2014, 06:29 PM
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
steering and long arms actually look great here. you sure any of that is rustys??
I'm not seeing any frame reinforcement though. looks pretty good so far!
crack open those diffs next
I'm not seeing any frame reinforcement though. looks pretty good so far!
crack open those diffs next
02-14-2014, 06:48 PM
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Steering is definitely not rustys. I see jks and "rock proof" on everything. The long arms say RUSTYS though.
02-14-2014, 07:15 PM
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Year: 1995
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Engine: 4.0
That's one beefy sway bar, mines like half that thick.
So it looks like the guy welded three small pieces of angle iron on the front diff as armor? Better than it being completely naked I guess.
So it looks like the guy welded three small pieces of angle iron on the front diff as armor? Better than it being completely naked I guess.
02-15-2014, 12:25 PM
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