investinwaffles

Hi Guys,
I bought a 98 XJ for dirt cheap, but it came with no speakers or radio installed

So I think I am going to just spend a little bit of cash to put some decent gear in (budget!)

Anyway, I measured the openings (none in the rear passenger door, but I do have the speaker bar in the trunk). After some googling I found out that 6.5s should fit all around.

My question, is - do you guys think these Kicker DS65's would fit all around??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-2-Sets-of-KICKER-11DS65-6-5-Pair-2-Way-4-Ohms-Coaxial-Car-Stereo-Speakers-/161105492757?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item2582a2bb15&vxp=mtr
I think the depth is good but I am unsure if they will fit in general;
http://www.kicker.com/ds_series

I was planning on using an amp like this, or similar:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...m-EV4.400.html

Thanks guys! Not really sure what the right section to post this in is...

ryan8551226

They will fit. I have 5.25s all around and fit is very loose.

JL911

6.5" speakers should fit in the front doors and rear slots. As for the amp, it is unnecessary unless you are planning to install a subwoofer box. Your head unit will be able to power the speakers on its own.

XJlimitedx99

Not sure about the speakers you posted, other than they'll fit, but when I started my system I bought Alpine Type r's. They're $150 a pair but I found a website that had them half off. Also bought a decent Alpine headunit. About a year later I found an alpine amp online that plugs in behind the headunit and doesn't require rewiring the whole vehicle.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500KTP4...rch=Alpine+amp

The speakers sound amazing, and with my 500w alpine amp powering my 12" alpine type r sub it is perfect. And no, I didn't try to get alpine everything, it just happened. I got the amp and sub in a nice ported box for $160 from a friend.

investinwaffles

Aah, I think I am going to save up some cash for really nice component 6.5"s all around, and a good 4 channel amplifier. What I want is going to run around $300 and I dont even have a head unit :/
Until then, I am going to throw some really budget speakers in (some Kenwood 6.5s for cheap on craigslist near me) because I think an amp would be the best route.

I found a JL 12w3 v3-4 + 750w amp combo that I can get for $150 which is as good of a deal as I can put together.
Plus he barely used it and it is all nearly brand new.

Sound like a decent idea? I was going to add a subwoofer for when I dont need the space back there but the box he has is kind of huge. The 6.5's were so I didnt really need a sub on long road trips or when camping and such.

Wish I had the ***** to put a sub in the rear cubby, but I am afraid of rattles and this is a much cheaper option because I cant really afford a $250 enclosure right now (or have the skills/tools to make one myself).

What do yall think?

XJlimitedx99

I think if you're going to get a sub you should have a box that is dimensionally correct for the size sub you have. My ported box take up half of my cargo area for one sub, but it sure sounds good! A box that is to small won't resonate correct because it won't have the right amount of air to move. Don't put the sub in the cubby, sound quality will be sacrificed

investinwaffles

A little thread resurrection since that deal with the JL unfortunately fell through. The box was huge and I really want to keep the sub in the car when I road trip places (while still holding gear).

Just won this JL J2 320.4 component amp on Ebay for a super good price ($50);
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JL-Audio-J2-320-4-WORKS-AND-LOOKS-PERFECT-/200972340596?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&nma=true&si=04tqkwwfCgaAu9iVqVwuQ4Z8yD8%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc
So I am going to move forward with the whole thing in one shebang I think


I am having a really hard time picking a subwoofer though. I really want a powerful 10", but cant afford the really good ones (10w6v2, etc). Putting it in a sealed enclosure (I will build it probably), for most punch and an appropriate amplifier.

After doing some research, I sort-of narrowed it down to Image Dynamics (IDQ10v3D4), and Massive Audio (TORO 104, 1000w rms || KILO 104, 500w rms)

Do you guys think the Image Dynamics would be for sure the best bet? Cant find any reviews on the Toro 104 but it has really good specs and seems to be much heavier than the other two, if thats any indication of spl

Basically most ballin, with the least budget
I would buy the IDQ, but this Massive Toro 104 really peaks my interest because of the 1000w rms rating.

Massive Toro;
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-Toro-104.html

IDQ10v3 D4
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...10-V.3-D4.html

Anyone here know anything about car audio, because my head is starting to spin...

Here's what the back of my XJ looks like - I want to slot the enclosure in next to the white box w/ all my recovery equipment in it

Teej

Well if you're interested, I have a used Type R 10" to sell. 600W RMS, 1800W max. I run mine at 1000W sealed and get no distortion. PM me if you're interested. I'm looking to get maybe $70 for it.

2WDUnderachiever

I have those Kickers in the doors and the 5.25" Kicker DSs in the sound bar, and a Pioneer head unit.
Sounds great.

That being said, it was hard to get the front speakers in, I ended up using self-tapping screws and just drilling wherever.
But I have a '95, maybe it's different for you.

investinwaffles

Nice, thats good to know. I actually never purchased them (was mulling my options over), and decided to just do everything right now (I am an impatient fool I guess )

I havent decided on the components, but I think I am going to do some alpine type R's up front, and something cheaper and "bright" for the rear since I will have a subwoofer (didnt originally plan on that).
I ordered some Infinity Reference REF-6502IX for really cheap on ebay to test with since they are rated for 60w rms.

Teej,
I was kind of hoping to get something new, but you have a PM

Puddin'

I got some alpine type S 6.5" components up front that I had to rig to fit. And some kicker ks60 6.5" coaxials in the back. All powered by 400watt amp. Compliments my 2 CVRs well.

investinwaffles

OK, so I have another super-noob question for you all.

I was planning on rocking a really ****ty Dual headunit that was given to me by a friend, to offset the cost of all the audio equipment. Havent had a radio in the car for years, so I can skimp for a month to get the rest of the radio up and running.

Started running my speaker wire, and getting prepped for the rest of the parts to arrive.

So far I have:
JL Audio J2 320.4 Component/Coax amp
US Amps Merlin MD1D (850w rms @ 2ohm)
Infinity 6.5" 2-ways for the front
Cheap Kenwood 6.5's for the rear
Dual no-name head unit (aux input is all I need).

And Soon to have a 10" Alpine type-r subwoofer

My question to you all, is how do I send RCA from my head-unit to the JL 320.4? I the crappy headunit I have only has 2 RCA's on the back (for a subwoofer most likely), but the wiring harness does have positive and negative wires for each speaker. Any easy way to convert this?? I am basically wiring everything so I can drop a new head unit in with no headaches, so I will be sending 4 RCA's to the head-unit just for the JL 320.4.


Second question:
What is the best way to fuse my amplifier positive wire? I am running a single 0/1 Gauge (Knuconceptz) to the under-seat area and will have a distribution block for the two amps. Should I put the fuse in the engine-bay, or is it OK to use a fuseable block in the underseat area? I want it in the cab so it stays dry, and so I can easily pull a fuse out if I remove the sub enclosure (with amp mounted ontop of it), to kill power to that positive wire.

I guess I can always put another fuse in the engine bay, close to the battery, but I want to keep resistance to a minimum (even though I am not running much power through this system).

Was planning on using this fusable distribution block:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MIDI-ANL-Fuse-Holder-3-0-2-4-IN-2-4-8-Gauge-Out-FREE-FUSES-Car-Amp-/271289246975?pt=US_Car_Audio_Video_Distribution_Blocks&hash=item3f2a1964ff
Also buying:

This battery terminal
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DBT024RP-Platinum-1-0-4-Gauge-AWG-Digital-Battery-Terminal-with-Voltage-Display-/161089554372?pt=US_Car_Audio_Video_Connectors_Terminals&hash=item2581af87c4&vxp=mtr
And about 20ft of Knuconceptz 0/1 wire do the Big Three upgrade, and for the main amp positive wire run, 4 gauge from the distribution block to the amps, 4 gauge for amp to grounding block.

Any advice? I know so little about car audio but I am learning alot.

carbuff

How did you guys get 6.5s to fit in the front doors? I tried this and the basket bottoms out on the opening way before theyre flush with the door, It seems like you would either have to cut the hole bigger or get a spacer, but then I dont know if they would fit under the door panel.You guy arent just screwing them in with the basket bottoming out on the door, are you? Or do I have to find a set of "flat" 6.5s that wont bottom out. This is in a 2000.

thatXJguy

Yeah... same here. I have only been able to get 5.25 speakers to fit.

2WDUnderachiever

^Self-tapping sheetrock screws, boys.