I'm wanting to jump to 35s come tax time, however I'm also thinking about doing an axle swap first. I don't want to go any larger than 35 since I drive the Jeep a lot and don't really want to spend a lot of money for tires and all that.

I need to do the rear disc conversion anyway, and I was thinking of maybe doing a rear locker and chromoly shafts all at the same time if I stick with the 8.25.

I have a D30 with an Aussie and chromoly shafts right now.


I like to wheel pretty hard as well. I'm in Colorado so it's mostly trails with rocks and such. I'm not sure if they get a whole lot of mud, just moved here.




After researching and talking to some people, I think I may just upgrade my rear with an 8.8. That way I get a stronger axle and disc brakes in one move.

 

I'd stick with the 8.25. Plenty strong for 35s. While the 8.8 is plenty strong once you weld the tubes and replace the weak carrier, if you're going to swap in an axle why not put in one without c-clips. People will say the disc will hold the broken shaft in and it will but will ruin the backing plate if you drive any distance with it. Ask me how I know that and I was on the trail not pavement.

 

That's good to know. And what do you think about locking the rear, while I'm already locked in the front? I've heard good and bad things about locking both.

 

keep an eye out for a stock xj44. no c-clips and stronger than your 8.25.
lockers are plentiful for the 44 also. i use a lock-rite in mine on 36's.

 

60/14 bolt or bust!!!

Seriously, I don't think you could go wrong with an 8.8. You gain strength and disc brakes. Get some sort of selectable locker for the rear (arb, ox,e-locker) if you're super concerned about on-road handling.

 

I drove mine for years on the street locked front and rear with lunchbox lockers. It takes a little getting used to but after a month or so you forget they are there till you need them on the trail.

 

I'm in the same boat as the OP and would love to hear as much input as this as possible. Hp Dana 30 and 29 spline 8.25.

With chromos front and rear will they hold up locked on 35s? At that point in worried about knocking out ring gear teeth in the front, or the small 4.56 pinion.

 

fine setup. a very fine setup. you're essentially talking full built axles. I don't see any problems with 4.56 RP's, I absolutely whaled on that setup myself a couple years ago. the only time I've seen breakage is when people go and do something silly like try to run 36's and bigger, and that's only with the 4.88 pinion. so you'll be fine on 35's and 4.56!

if you're into high wheel speed and tough rocky terrain or hill climbs desert racing etc I suggest a trusses and very sturdy diff covers to reduce gear deflection. run full circle snap rings in the ujoints. other than that, good luck hurting a well built pair of axles like that. everything requires maintenance but if you're actually breaking fully built internals you're doing something wrong.

as always, poke around google and some other forums. this has got to be the most popular axle pairing in the xj world so theres already a few threads out there...

 

Oh ya there's plenty, but I really think no matter what I'll read I'm still gunna be skeptical about my cute little Dana 30.

To the OP, here is a good thread on the topic that I have open in another tab from months ago lol

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...-big-dogs.html

Now my only decision is what lockers.. Been sitting on that question for months and can't make up my mind. Aussies vs detroits vs elocker vs ox.

 

I have truly beat the **** out of my d30 on 35's without a single issue. Locker, chromo's and 4.56's

 

good. a little skepticism will help keep it alive.

in my experience:
Yukon grizzly > Detroit > Spartan > aussie > spool

once you step up to a full case locker I think you'll find you actually hate lunchbox lockers. I know I'm never going back. and I've never ever felt the need for a selectable. not for turning radius, street driving, nothing. although I could definitely see a Yukon zip locker in the rear being amazing for a DD. unfortunately the 8.25 still has limited selections... at the end of the day, just pick one. some go click and some cost more than the ones that go click click

 

I have pulled both an C8.25 29 spline and a Disc Brake Ford 8.8 31 spline from Picknpull on half price weekends. When you see them next to each other it's clear that the 8.8 is pure beef. I know the C clips are a weak point. But everything else about the 8.8 is awesome. I believe you can install the C clip eliminator for about the same price as a disc brake upgrade for the C8.25.

Let's ignore the C clips for a moment. The 8.8 is closer to the D60 in strength, beefier than the 44 and much stronger than the 8.25. If you upgrade the C clip issue its gonna handle 35's forever with no issue.

 

not myself, or anyone I know, and actually never on the internet have I see someone have an issue with the C-clips. not sure how that rumor started going around but I can't think of any instance where I've seen trouble with them. or any broken 8.8 parts for that matter (and I've definitely seen plenty of broken 44/60 parts)... an 8.8 is beef but be prepared to drag it over some ****. even on 35's I was hanging it everywhere that my shaved 14 bolt now doesn't even notice on 37's.

axle swaps can be a pain in the butt. the 8.25 is a fine option if you've already got it

 

Agreed. I've never seen any pictures of 8.8 carnage, but I'm sure if you do something crazy like try to run 40's and redline up hills it'll break. I've pulled a few out of the back of exploders to sell, and they definitely seem very stout.

 

It does look like it would drag a bit. Anyone ever shave an 8.8. Like I said I currently own both an 8.8 and an 8.25. I'm hoping the 8.8 is shaveable, I got a 8.8/d30 set of gears for $80, I'd really like for it all to work out.