T2xjdude

Hello guys and gals. So, I just bought my first jeep ever (91 with tons of mods), and I have some work to do..lol. This thing runs like a top, but needs some metal work. Mainly, it needs floor pans. I have read the posts in the forum, but my main question is weather or not I should buy the replacement pans, or get the sheet metal and fab them up. I have done pans in a 57 Chevy. So I'm familiar to the scope of this task. I'm simply not sure as to what gage metal to buy if I go that route, or if it's really worth it to make my own. Thanks for any advice.i can't wait to get out there and have some fun with my new (to me ) rig.

robertj

Depends on how bad your existing pans are. It would help for us to see some pictures of the carnage. I prefer going with replacement pans even if I'm just dong some small patching, because it makes things easier and the left over sheet metal can be used for other things. It depends on your time versus money ratio like most things when working on a car.

T2xjdude

The front pans are pretty toasted, and the rears are okay. However, I figured I'd do the lot while I'm in there. Thanks for the reply.

andrewmp6

I would use replacement pans they are cheap enough if you look around online.But before i would do it i would figure out where the water is getting to that caused them to rust out.Like the windshield/cowl can leak any door can leak also.

T2xjdude

So I figured I'd add some photos and get some opinions. I haven't really gone through the thing with a fine tooth comb yet. This is a learning process for me. Aside from the pans obviously, where should I focus to get her running reliably? Thanks again!

T2xjdude

All, I got this thing for $800 bucks, so feel free to criticize the poop out o it lol.

jay_sco

For $800, you really can't complain much! Looks like the pans will keep you busy for a minute, check the entire underside (focus around the forward mount of the leafs and rockers) for more rust damage. Once you get that squared away get everything lined up for tuneup, same with every 25 year old vehicle. Clean everything real good to spot any leaks. All fluids (motor,tranny,diffs,TC,etc). Plugs, wires, cap/rotor. Brakes.
Most important when buying a vehicle that the PO has wrenched on...double check all work done. Double check all lift components, fasteners, etc to make sure nothing is going to fall off while driving around.
Once you start inspecting and fixing as needed I'm sure you'll find plenty of other items that should be addressed.

T2xjdude

Thanks Jay. I've throughly inspected all of the frame mounts, and they are rust free. Fortunately, this thing has got a pretty significant undercoat. I guess water and mud had soaked the rugs... Thus the floor pans. Any advice on drive components? I'm used to rwd muscle cars. So, transfer cases and lifts etc are new to my skill set.

jay_sco

Not sure what kind of advise you're looking for, and you can get a wide range of opinions depending on who you ask and what kind of wheeling you plan on doing. Best advise I can give right now is find out exactly what your rig has, research those components, and go from there.
One thing I see from the pics is that snorkel setup, I'm not too savvy on them but that looks like it's not meant to be driven in the rain. Just my .02. I've had a CAI on my old ricer (when I was young and dumb, now I'm just older) and sucked enough water in to seize my engine.

T2xjdude

Yeah. The PO used it for muddling, since in in nw Florida. I see lots of trucks with the around here (probably because they just look cool). Anyway, I guess what I really wanted to know is how do I ensure the drive shafts, u joints, etc are not needing replacement soon? Thanks again!

Vigilante

What can I do to make my Jeep to better it's 2wd

jay_sco

Since this is totally unrelated to the original post you should really start your own thread. And the answer might be to make it 4wd.

jay_sco

Back on track...
Check the u-joints the same way you would in a rwd muscle car. Get under the vehicle and try to shake the f**k out of the driveshaft near the ends. Up down back forth. Driveshaft shouldn't need replacement unless it's bent, and you'd know that from driving it. Engage 4wd (on a surface other than the street) to see how the TC is working.