That's good to know. Thanks for all your input and help. I really want this jeep to run smoothly so I can lift it in near future (summer or fall).

 

That's good to know. Thanks for all the input and help. I really want this jeep to run smoothly so I can lift it in the near future (summer or fall)

 

Good luck with the Jeep and welcome to the sickness

As a side note, if you plan on working on it yourself buy some band-aids

 

Is it auto or stick? Trans service is stupid easy, and makes that vehicle last forever as well. The automatic is a pan drain hole at the bottom, you'll lose a 2-3 quarts and can add DexronIII/MERC (do not use ATF+4. D3/M only) via the dipstick. Usually it'll be pretty grimy if it wasn't taken care of. Mine is shifting alot smoother now after swapping those 2 quarts 3-4 times so far. It also helps eek out a little more MPG.

(Total trans capacity is much more, but you can only dilute what's already in there via this method)

 

Heres what I went through when I got my XJ recently. You can more or less search for how-to's on how to do all of this either on Cherokee Forum or using Google (I know because I did just that when researching all of this!)

* Make sure all wheel nuts are tightened to spec (dont trust the previous owner!) Check tire psi.
* Oil + Filter (Wix/Napa Gold + Shell Rotella T6 or T5)
* Front + rear diff fluid change (75w90 Mobil 1)
* Transfer Case (Castrol Dextron III)
* Transmission fluid change (Redline MT-90 for AX15 Manual, Dex III for Auto and drain/fill it 3 times over the course of a month or so to fully clean it out slowly). Drop the pan before you refill for the last time and clean the magnet and re-seal the pan using a good gasket.
* Brake Fluid (Flush from the rear right wheel forward. I used some sort of synthetic DOT 3/4 rated fluid).
* Power Steering Fluid (I actually havent finished this, but I sucked out as much old fluid as I could with a siphon pump and refilled it with clean fluid. Need to do it 3 or 4 more times before I think it'll be clean enough.
* Coolant (Fully flush the radiator and engine before backflushing the heater core separately).

* Plugs (I run NGK V Power and the 4.0 runs just fine)
* Ignition (Distributor cap + rotor)
* Serp Belt (Goodyear Gatorback Belt is the best IMO)
* Inspect brake pads/shoes/rotors/drums and replace anything that you need to. If you feel like it, get some rebuilt calipers for the front for $30 each and dont even bother rebuilding the old ones.
* I would go ahead and replace hoses as well if you can afford to. Sucks to blow one and have to wait for a tow.
* While you are in there, put in a new thermostat and waterpump if you have the coin. Also sucks when this dies on you and you overheat or have to wait for a tow.

* Remove the throttle body, and disassemble all the electronics off it. Clean the throttle body and MAP sensor thoroughly with a toothbrush. Clean the inside of the intake tube as well, and if there is alot of oil in there you may need to replace/clean your crankcase vent or it will just keep sucking oil through.

* Degrease the crap out of the engine bay so you can see where stuff is leaking more clearly. I thought I had a bad leak, but it turns out that it was only the oil-filter adapter gasket.


That should get you started

 

it's an automatic. I plan on doing all the fluid changes when I get my income tax money.