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intake surgery

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Old Apr 2, 2011 | 04:21 PM
  #16  
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From: Hannibal, MO
Year: 1993
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This all sounds like a terrible idea. No offense but most of you're "this is strong enough for this" and "it's more than enough for that" is opinion not really based in fact. If it works out over time then great, but you won't see it on my Jeep.
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Old Apr 2, 2011 | 04:39 PM
  #17  
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I'm not Scared.
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Old Apr 2, 2011 | 05:03 PM
  #18  
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it's not a new thing to do by any means, it's proven to work on different platforms, and the reasoning behind it is spot on, the flat excess spots on the intake manifold are mostly just leftover from casting anyway, they just happen to be very much in the way of heat escaping or cool air getting to the header. I can't wait till I do this to mine, I'm gonna wrap my header, as well as cut the excess from my intake manifold, and see no problems with it, the parts being removed are in no way structural
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 08:11 PM
  #19  
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I trimmed a old style & a new style intake & they look awesome.bolted up super smooth.can get to all the bolts a lot easier.HUGE difference!.pics on my profile-parts album
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 11:51 PM
  #20  
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awesome, I'll check em out once I hop on my computer
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 07:01 PM
  #21  
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well as you have seen on my other posts, im with you on the wrapping of the header, but when considering removing the webbing, Im concerned about the strength and integrity of the manifold. I feel like the extreme differences in heat could cause the manifold to crack, without the webbing intact. I see the immediate gains, but wonder about the long term effects....what about the effect of the heat rising and heat soaking the fuel rail? wont that be a much larger issue now?
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 12:58 AM
  #22  
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it should be an even smaller problem with a wrapped header
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 08:51 AM
  #23  
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Headers wrapped n the fuel rail is plenty far away from header & the holes. Fuel rail easy 6" away from any part of header. I'm gonna be running a big cowl hood also for maximum fresh air & heat exchange so a heated fuel rail won't be a problem. I've worked in several founderies both iron & aluminum thoughout the years. The webbing removed isn't going to make the intake weak or fragile.
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 10:19 AM
  #24  
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You can see the fuel rail mounting bosses in my pics. Fuel rail is far enough away. It sits bout 6" back & 4-5" up. & with header wrapped it won't even be a issue. The wrap has made a huge difference! Everything bolted up like a dream with the added open spaces, the intake temp has dropped drastically. I could even touch the header after its been running for a couple minutes, try that with a factory pipe after 10seconds running.
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 02:46 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by BRUNER247
Everything bolted up like a dream with the added open spaces, .
after i checked your pics thats the first thing that came to mind. looks like you got a decent amount of space to make it easier to put the bolts back in. sometimes they are a pita. especially on a wrangler. good job looks awesome.
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 03:19 PM
  #26  
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Thanks.it was easy. 4" grinder, 4"cut-off wheel, used 7" grinding wheel on 4"grinder, & 3"peter-stone on 4" grinder.
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 03:30 PM
  #27  
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I removed the all the webbing from the new style intake, & left a inch(give or take)on the old style. I removed the back webbing completely on both & trimmed the front on both also. & while I was at it I went ahead n reground the factory grinding(mold seam flange)and made all that smooth.
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 03:43 PM
  #28  
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Also I should add that with the back webbing removed I can get my hand between the intake & firewall, no way this was possible before.makes changing a crank sensor a 5min job & access to bellhousing bolts improved also.
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 01:22 PM
  #29  
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needs pix man. Lets see it
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 02:48 PM
  #30  
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x2
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