wow. where is this shop? and how on earth did they manage to make it this long ?

 

Golen is in NH I believe... makes all kinds of motors. Ive had no problems at all with his Stroker... very happy with it.

Feel bad for the OP though... No idea where his shop is or really whats going on. sounds like a mess!

 

There was no problems with the stroker as it was from Golen. It all spiralled downward from dad putting in 12 quarts of oil and the transmission sitting out open to the elements for 13 months while he was delaying putting the new engine in.

The shop used to be 1/4th the size it currently is and they didn't have enough room to handle everything they could do. Now the new locations is ginormous and they have more work than they can keep up with. They're primarily a speed shop that deals with exhaust, electronics and boost. I would think they would have been more familiar with valve geometry, but they certainly didn't skimp out on taking actual measurements on the components to ensure they were in standards.
If it wasn't for that I wouldn't have known about the thrust bearing wear which I deduced from my own experiences to be due to the transmission. I would have eventually been back in the same boat again if I didn't change out the transmission so I definitely give them kudos for that.

But yes, it has taken a while. They're always curteous and professional. Had there not been any issues with obvious bearing wear it would have been done at the 6 week'ish mark I believe. It was two weeks before they actually got started on it.

 

wow. this professional shop was the one contacting you about use of meth injection, etc? why wasn't the pushrod length measured to begin with ? and how are they measuring for a correct pushrod with a hydraulic lifter ? one that is suspect to bleeding down to boot lol

 

I'm just waiting for your numbers as there is no dyno anywhere near me haha. Hope its running soon.

 

I think I forgot to mention that they were using factory torque specs vs. 1.5 turn method on preload.

I gave them the parts. I couldn't imagine a new cam requiring new pushrods. that's not common with this engine. However, the cam I got was for a different era of 4.0 engine so that makes sense. It was my error.

They basically used shims while adjusting preload until they found the 1.5 turn pre-load. Somehow they got the precise measurement of .009 additional for the exhaust using a dial indicator, which according to them was very tricky. They conversed with Chad over the phone, then chad relayed the measurements to someone at his shop to find the correct pushrod length.

I'm contacting them tomorrow when they open to ensure the rods came and they are being installed vs. left laying around in a box until late tuesday afternoon.

I'm expecting larger WHP with everything considered. That dyno they did just after it was running on the shorter rods is closer to what I should have had from the stroker alone. Every calculator I have looked at indicates 335 HP with 4~ PSI. After reverse-engineering the math it came out to 4 PSI = 26% more HP. I expect closer to 20%. That would land me at 318hp/356tq crank, 242/271 wheel. 252/282 wheel with 5 PSI. It's also worth noting with this cam that the T curve should be more robuster than a normal stroker engine with more off-idle pull, and better gas mileage

It's the boosted long block from Golen and I have methanol injection to assist lowered IAT's. It's only a matter of time before I switch to a smaller pulley.. then toy with the idea of an intercooler for a few months before I put one of those on too.

Where did you get your IC from Marty. ?

 

No IC. Not enough room.
Just fuel and meth thru the SC. IATs 180* at sustained 10 pounds boost.

Here is something to compare to, from my DYNO page, build similar to yours-
243rwhp/360rwtq Mustang dyno '01 TJ 5speed 5.0L Built Stroker+Magnum Powers M90 SC 7.9"/2.75"= 13,932 SC rpm 6psi (N/A 208hp/280tq)
That is with a cam bigger than you are using. TQ is really impressive, much more than HP.

 

Which cam are you using? Those torque numbers are impressive with 10 PSI. More effective cylinder compression means more torque.

I've read that cams with less intake take make more torque. Less intake time with a SC would also generate more PSI in the IM.

What are the specs on you engine as far as deck height and overall combustion chamber cc? Mine's decked to zero so I'm sitting at .042 quench which is maximum efficiency and detonation resistance, but there is more compression which is also a detonation factor. I'm not sure which one is actually more important. I'm afraid if I ever go with a smaller pulley it might be dangerous.

 

My 4.0 160k with stock cam and head and 6psi made 211rwhp/274rwtq.

My 4.0 180k with stock cam and big valve ported 505 head and 9-10psi boost expect about 265rwhp/325rwtq but we haven't dyno'ed it yet.

Magnum Powers M90 5.0L new built with 212/216 0.488"/0.498" cam big valve ported head etc and 6psi boost made 243rwhp/360rwtq.

 

the pushrod length would only change if the head/block was decked or the cams base circle is different. assuming the same lifter, valve, and head gasket.

 

The cam is for the older era 4.0 so that might be the case with it. Chad said different style lifter's is most likely the cause, however if that was the case then there shouldn't be differences between the intake and exhaust rod lengths as there is now. The lobes have to be different on the older Mopar camshafts.

 

so those guys built this motor with all tease different parts and didn't check anything? wtf.

 

So the summary here is- Correct me if I have it wrong

1) Golen 4.6L boosted long block stroker bought and installed
https://www.golenengineservice.com/e...eep-long-block

2) knocking sound and pulled engine and found worn cam bearings and a worn crank thrust bearing and unusual wear on the timing cover. Had shop replace cam and crank bearings and replace the cam with a Mopar Purple cam.
-Thought problem was caused by a worn transmission (due to sitting out for 13 months) and the torque converter movement fore and aft was pushing on the crank and causing crank movement to take out the thrust bearing and metal shavings took out the cam bearings.
-Also thought the problem was- 'Thrust bearing failure is highly likely due to the transmission. The bearings were all worn out due to cam-gear failure which I suspect is due to 12 quarts of oil in the engine thanks to my dad who said it was empty'. I deduced too much oil was reducing the oil flow. I also doubt my dad put any break in lube on the cam-synchronizer before he put it in. It probably went in bare-metal'.
-Installed rebuilt transmission and bearing and camshaft rebuilt engine
-'I've already had 2 past cam failure with aftermarket cams so I'm staying away from anything I don't trust. Another reason I went with the mopar. I don't want any more engine rebuilds'.

3) Tech during the above rebuild, noticed that when he tightened the rocker bolts, the valves were opening slightly. Checked compression test and found 60psi in 2 and 0psi in the other cylinders. Thought the pushrods were too long. Tried to shim the rockers higher but finally and ordered shorter pushrods. With the shorter pushrods, all cylinders had 60psi on compression testing

4) shop placed on dyno, 200rwhp and 3psi. Using stock 55mmTb and then replaced with bored 62mm TB. Retested compression test and found 65psi across the board. Rechecked with different pushrod lengths and setting 'the lash adjustment' and 5 minutes later the lash was loose again. Thought to be failed lifters. Unknown specs on valve springs which were supplied by Golen.
-'Just thinking about the older cam style and you mentioning it walking.. and my transmission. I wonder if the transmission problems affecting the thrust bearing, via pushing the cam shaft, are what was moving the cam around and if that's what caused the cam-synchronizer gear-wear-down'.
-Here's what pushrods I ended up needing with the Mopar cam/lifter setup:
Exhaust Rods: 9.640" (with 1.5 turns of pre-load)
Intake Rods: 9.600" (with 1.5 turns of pre-load)
Golen used 9.649" pushrods originally

4) Here we are now, up to date.

You need to read this guy's problems and solutions. Sounds very similar to your issues. Took him 5 rebuilds to finally fix the problem.
http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/vi....php?f=8&t=444
He originally put an old style cam into a 99+ block and had cam walk and that took out cam bearings. Thought it was transmission problems. Finally replaced 'pin and spring' with 'just a pin' and adjusted/filed it's length to give like 0.006" cam movement. Later replaced the 'pin' and old style cam with a Jones cam ground on a '99+ core and used the cam retainer plate that originally came with the '99+ block.

 

I never had any knock or metal shavings. Only the annoying grinding sound from the cam-distributor gear on decceleration. I'm reading through the 42 page book now at 5:17 AM.

 

Conversing with Silver XJ, owner of the 5 time award rebuilt stroker on Jeep Strokers, he says I need a new cam shaft. I'm debating whether I should go back to stock or give MJ a try. The boosted cam gives less dynamic compression which would allow me to run a little more boost in the future.

Also, if I go with that cam, will I need to change valve springs and buy all new push-rods vs. using the stock ones I have from Golen. ? How much would you be willing to part with the boosted cam for?