Yea, HUGE difference. Have we got dyno results yet???

 

It's rough guestimation from equations and it's obviously not WHP.

The meth injection isn't spraying for some reason so pickup is being delayed until further notice.

I just asked what the results were and he said 200 at the wheels which seems off to me. He also said it was making 3 PSI. I'm going to get the actual cylinder compression numbers tomorrow. The guy working on it yesterday had today off. I sense there is still open valve'ry with those numbers.

 

I foresee a smaller pulley in my near future.

I'm also running 34"x12.5" ish tires so I'm sure that's not helping. It's also an automatic transmission so it's not going to be as high as if it was a manual. He also mentioned because it was an automatic it was hard to get it to stay in gear because of the way it shifted. I don't understand dyno procedures so that's foreign to me.

 

Mine was off of RWP. Things like fluid viscosity can help alleviate some parasitic loss in the drivetrain. Also my clutch packs and solenoids in the AW4 were upgraded to minimize the natural slippage that normally occurs.

 

Yeah, the auto needs to be locked in a gear to be able to dyno well. I modified my TCU to shift 1-2-3 and hold in each gear. That is what is needed to dyno. Other is to unplug the TCU and it will just stay in gear and not shift. I forget if it stays in 2nd or 3rd.

What was the TQ?

 

So 3 pounds boost +15%, 180rwhp +15% = 207rwhp
With 34" x 12.5" heavy tires and stock trans and no meth or 7th injector to cool IAT and 200 rwhp is pretty close.

What Throttle Body are you running?

 

Also go find an 80's model MKIII Supra with the AW 30-60 auto transmission and grab it's shift solenoids. The AW30-60 is identical to the AW30-40 (AW4) found in our Xjs internally except thicker/stronger clutches, steels and larger shift solenoids which hold more line pressure than the AW4s.

 

Good question. I can't believe I forgot to ask. I think I just asked for the dyno results so he just told me the HP. He said it shifted a hell of a lot better with the new transmission. I'll have to look into the transmission mod to keep it in gear.

 

so a 4.7? liter engine with a supercharger is making 200 wheel? id set fire to it.

 

The tried and true OEM direct from the factory.

 

It's a 4.6. There's a big difference.

 

LOL

 

I'm crying!!

Guys with stock 4.0s put bored 62mm TBs for more performance.

You have 15% more displacement and a slightly more cam and the supercharger. You've spent $1000s on the stroker longblock, sprintex supercharger, meth injection and labor. Please spend an additional $100 and get a 62mm bored TB.Your IATs will go down, your boost and power will go up. $400 on a 70mm F+B would be better but then you would have to port the housing under the TB which requires taking the SC off the motor.

Interesting that my predicted 207rwhp vs. your actual 200rwhp is 3.5% difference. That can be due to a 35* higher charge IAT because you don't have the meth working yet or the 7th injector.

Please before you put on a smaller SC pulley, put on a larger TB and get the meth working.

I would predict +1 pound more boost (3 to 4) with a 62mm TB and your current set up and +2 pound more boost (3 to 5) with your current set up and the 70mm TB.

 

Marty, I think between yourself and I, we can help steer Wayne in the right direction to achieving his goal. [emoji106]

 

I'll consider it. What are my options on the TB? I'd like to get one that doesn't have spring pressure on it that makes me feel like I'm working my right leg out like the last one did. Long drives sucked ***** big time.

I would prefer not having to do any modifications to it.