would it be easier to get this? Same price as a new yoke too.

Probably not, a lot of work to drop an axle just because of a pinion yoke...read the whole thread I posted, there is a way of getting the yoke off and back on, but I believe it requires a tool to do it right. Mine was different because I installed new gears when I replaced my yoke anyways...so I was starting from scratch from the get go.

yea, I read through that thread earlier already. I'm still not sure on what I should do. I don't know how to make all the adjustments in the carrier. Is there any way I could still make my yoke usable. Maybe thread the holes and use larger bolts?

Possible, but I'd be wary of the straps, you'd have to drill those bigger as well, and there already isn't much meat there where the bolt goes through the strap. Go get a set of straps and see how much material is there, and find the tap you need to use and get the right bolt...sounds like your best option right now

I've got the old straps and all the bolts. I'd just need to fine away to put the head of the bolt further out cause it would hit on the hump of the strap if I used bigger bolts

Yeah, that's gonna be the other issue...I know you said the bolt was stripped, but was it the threads that were stripped, or the head just rounded off? You could've saved yourself a LOT of hassle by just buying a new strap set...Yeah, I know, a little late now, but this is how we learn, LOL

You can try using a hex head (allen) bolt, might reduce the diameter of the head, and being round might give you better clearance.

to tell the truth, everything was perfectly fine, I just came across that thread with the u bolt upgrade and I thought I would upgrade to that before a strap breaks (happened on my friends jeep) and ended up digging myself into this hole. I guess this is my jeeps way of getting some attention. She's been sitting since January cause I'm putting new floors in. This is what happens when I try to fix something that's not broken. Lol. At hex head idea might work, I'll look into that, and if that doesn't work, then I'll be getting a new yoke.

Good luck, keep us posted...

Ok, I've decide I gonna replace the yoke. If Im gonna fix it, I'm gonna fix it right. I'm wanting to put the 94 up yoke instead of the yoke I currently have. The one I have now is 2.75" long and the 94 up is 3". Would is make any difference? I can't find anything about this anywhere and I need to know so I can order the yoke. I'm also thinking about using a crush sleeve eliminator.

I'm not sure on this...one has the dust shield and the other does not, and not sure if it makes a difference. The length of the yoke will obviously affect the driveshaft length a bit, are you running a SYE, or stock driveshaft? it will depend how much play you have in the driveshaft as far as I can tell, and make sure the pinion you get is the right spline count. Other than that I can't really say. Maybe someone with more experience can chime in. Also make sure you order the crush sleeve as well!

I have stock driveshaft but I plan on getting slip yoke eliminator and cv driveshaft once I get the lift. As for the crush sleeve, I plan on using a crush sleeve eliminator which is basically a pinion bearing spacer with shims. That way I can remove yoke whenever and I don't have to mess with preload when I remove it. The link for the pinion bearing spacer is at the end of that thread you gave me a link to earlier if anybodys interested.

Alright just ordered some parts. Figured I'd replace pinion seal while I'm at it. No more crush sleeve! Going with this instead. So what you think? Is this all I need besides tools and some gear paint.