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Distributor

Old 11-26-2015, 04:23 PM
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Hey guys I have a quick question I own a 1991 jeep Cherokee 4.0 and has 76,xxx miles but recently I bought a 1990 jeep Cherokee 4.0 ( renix) with a blown engine so I'm swapping the 91 engine to the 90 body and electronics, now this is what I need info on the distributors have different connectors so I need to swap the 90 distributor to the 91 engine do I have to worry about the gears of the camshaft and the distributor because I know if you have different types of metal the gears can strip do I need to worry about this or no?

And one more thing does anyone know how manny gallons of bed liner I need to bedside ghe interior of the jeep?

Thanks
Old 11-26-2015, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Mattloz
Hey guys I have a quick question I own a 1991 jeep Cherokee 4.0 and has 76,xxx miles but recently I bought a 1990 jeep Cherokee 4.0 ( renix) with a blown engine so I'm swapping the 91 engine to the 90 body and electronics, now this is what I need info on the distributors have different connectors so I need to swap the 90 distributor to the 91 engine do I have to worry about the gears of the camshaft and the distributor because I know if you have different types of metal the gears can strip do I need to worry about this or no?

And one more thing does anyone know how manny gallons of bed liner I need to bedside ghe interior of the jeep?

Thanks
Here's all you need to know on the engine swap:

Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap

This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.

The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.

Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.

You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.

The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.

As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.


Revised 03/28/13
Old 11-26-2015, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Here's all you need to know on the engine swap:

Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap

This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.

The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.

Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.

You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.

The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.

As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.


Revised 03/28/13
Yes thank you it read up on this info already so just to be clear I don't have to worry about the gears of the camshaft and distributor
Old 11-26-2015, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Mattloz
Yes thank you it read up on this info already so just to be clear I don't have to worry about the gears of the camshaft and distributor
No worries.
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