Custom Long arms Qs
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Newbie
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 14
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From: Central Nebraska
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter
hey guys Im building a long arm kit not sure if I should do y link, 3 link or 4 link. I have 6.5" lift and getting into rockcrawling, so I want a lot of travel. this is going to be just offroad toy. i would like to do 3 or 4 link set up but I'm not sure where I could mount the uppers. Does anyone have any pictures of their builds? thanx
I'd do a 3 link on the drivers side have a Y link using the factory mounting points on the axle (replace the upper with a flex joint. then the pass side just 1 link to the stock lower mount wit the track bar. 3 links to the frame with a tone flex and low binding.
aka Wade-O
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 3,703
Likes: 10
From: IN
Year: 1989 Comanche
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
yuck to the idea above.
pretty much any longarm type will be sufficient. the travel will depend on shock length, brake lines and tracbar. i personally hate any type of y-link setup. i'd run a 3 or 4-link w/ tracbar
here is how i mounted my 4-link. i plated the inside and outside of the frame and then welded the mounts to the plate.


(mounts are identical on driver and pass side)
pretty much any longarm type will be sufficient. the travel will depend on shock length, brake lines and tracbar. i personally hate any type of y-link setup. i'd run a 3 or 4-link w/ tracbar
here is how i mounted my 4-link. i plated the inside and outside of the frame and then welded the mounts to the plate.


(mounts are identical on driver and pass side)
Last edited by 89eliminator; Oct 15, 2010 at 10:23 PM.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Central Nebraska
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter
89eliminator that is just what I was looking for. so you didn't have any clearance issues mounting that inbetween the driveshaft and frame? also was there any calulation to the position of that upper mount? Im not sure how to explain that but I'm talking about the vertical and horizontal distance between the upper and lower frame mount, or how important is that geometry? Sorry i'm going to engineering i tend to over think things. thanx again for the pics
i didn't do longarms. because they are simply not needed for the height i run, but maybe you could get some ideas from this anyway. it's copy/pasted from another post.
a few years ago i ran some numbers in a link calculator, i did some longarm setups and some mid arm setups, some high clearance, some requiring floor modification, some low clearance, etc. And this is what I decided to settle on a couple days ago.

Why the low clearance? because i have never been hung up on my longarms that hung down just as much and went much further back. And if I made them high clearance it would require ripping apart my floor for some decent antisquat numbers. Also i achieved a much flatter control arm angle this way.
full droop



flexin er' out checkin clearances and whatnot, nothing comes in contact with anything except for tires into the fenders, i just need me some bumpstops. oil pan even has about 3" clearance from the truss at full compression (even though the darn thing always hit before)


AIR FLECKS

arm angle at ride height


here is one of the control arms. using 5 year old rockkrawler heims that have NEVER BEEN GREASED and are still tight as a..... "insert something tight here"
ballistic joints on the frame side. those tabs are for the shocks.

the upper control arm just uses 7/8" heim joints with a 5/8" bolt
here is the upper link mount. one cheap trick i have learned for link mounts is go to the harbor freight store and pick up some hitch tubing. it's the perfect width for many heim joints with misalignment spacers, and 3/16" thick. and come with a 5/8" hole, which is perfect for the bolt size i am running.


how she sits now. i'm not sure how much over stock she is, but my guess is 5". weird because the same coils netted me 4" on the old xj. looks like i need to weld some more metal on it.

WHAT do i think?
My last 2 jeeps with the radius arms rode pretty terrible, granted even with the rubber bushings. Then i cruised around with a 3" lift on stock control arms for a few months, and thought it rode pretty nice and I had people who rode with me who were jealous of the ride quality. The road i take to work sucks and my cd player would always skip maybe 20 times on the way to work. Now I coast over those bumps and I can't even tell they are there. I'm still amazed at the difference in ride quality.
NO it doesn't ride like a cadillac, and no jeep does no matter what longarms you put on it, anyone who tells you that is full of crap, but in its current form this is the nicest riding jeep I can remember being in (stock included).
a few years ago i ran some numbers in a link calculator, i did some longarm setups and some mid arm setups, some high clearance, some requiring floor modification, some low clearance, etc. And this is what I decided to settle on a couple days ago.

Why the low clearance? because i have never been hung up on my longarms that hung down just as much and went much further back. And if I made them high clearance it would require ripping apart my floor for some decent antisquat numbers. Also i achieved a much flatter control arm angle this way.
full droop



flexin er' out checkin clearances and whatnot, nothing comes in contact with anything except for tires into the fenders, i just need me some bumpstops. oil pan even has about 3" clearance from the truss at full compression (even though the darn thing always hit before)


AIR FLECKS

arm angle at ride height


here is one of the control arms. using 5 year old rockkrawler heims that have NEVER BEEN GREASED and are still tight as a..... "insert something tight here"
ballistic joints on the frame side. those tabs are for the shocks.

the upper control arm just uses 7/8" heim joints with a 5/8" bolt
here is the upper link mount. one cheap trick i have learned for link mounts is go to the harbor freight store and pick up some hitch tubing. it's the perfect width for many heim joints with misalignment spacers, and 3/16" thick. and come with a 5/8" hole, which is perfect for the bolt size i am running.


how she sits now. i'm not sure how much over stock she is, but my guess is 5". weird because the same coils netted me 4" on the old xj. looks like i need to weld some more metal on it.

WHAT do i think?
My last 2 jeeps with the radius arms rode pretty terrible, granted even with the rubber bushings. Then i cruised around with a 3" lift on stock control arms for a few months, and thought it rode pretty nice and I had people who rode with me who were jealous of the ride quality. The road i take to work sucks and my cd player would always skip maybe 20 times on the way to work. Now I coast over those bumps and I can't even tell they are there. I'm still amazed at the difference in ride quality.
NO it doesn't ride like a cadillac, and no jeep does no matter what longarms you put on it, anyone who tells you that is full of crap, but in its current form this is the nicest riding jeep I can remember being in (stock included).
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aka Wade-O
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 3,703
Likes: 10
From: IN
Year: 1989 Comanche
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
89eliminator that is just what I was looking for. so you didn't have any clearance issues mounting that inbetween the driveshaft and frame? also was there any calulation to the position of that upper mount? Im not sure how to explain that but I'm talking about the vertical and horizontal distance between the upper and lower frame mount, or how important is that geometry? Sorry i'm going to engineering i tend to over think things. thanx again for the pics
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