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Custom Long arms Qs

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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 05:15 PM
  #1  
XJ450R's Avatar
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From: Central Nebraska
Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0 liter
Default Custom Long arms Qs

hey guys Im building a long arm kit not sure if I should do y link, 3 link or 4 link. I have 6.5" lift and getting into rockcrawling, so I want a lot of travel. this is going to be just offroad toy. i would like to do 3 or 4 link set up but I'm not sure where I could mount the uppers. Does anyone have any pictures of their builds? thanx
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 06:51 PM
  #2  
Irongrave's Avatar
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I'd do a 3 link on the drivers side have a Y link using the factory mounting points on the axle (replace the upper with a flex joint. then the pass side just 1 link to the stock lower mount wit the track bar. 3 links to the frame with a tone flex and low binding.
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 10:18 PM
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Year: 1989 Comanche
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yuck to the idea above.

pretty much any longarm type will be sufficient. the travel will depend on shock length, brake lines and tracbar. i personally hate any type of y-link setup. i'd run a 3 or 4-link w/ tracbar

here is how i mounted my 4-link. i plated the inside and outside of the frame and then welded the mounts to the plate.



(mounts are identical on driver and pass side)

Last edited by 89eliminator; Oct 15, 2010 at 10:23 PM.
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 10:22 PM
  #4  
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x2 on the dislike of radius arms. I'd go with a 3 or 4 link with a track bar and call it done.
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 11:31 PM
  #5  
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89eliminator that is just what I was looking for. so you didn't have any clearance issues mounting that inbetween the driveshaft and frame? also was there any calulation to the position of that upper mount? Im not sure how to explain that but I'm talking about the vertical and horizontal distance between the upper and lower frame mount, or how important is that geometry? Sorry i'm going to engineering i tend to over think things. thanx again for the pics
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 08:06 AM
  #6  
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i didn't do longarms. because they are simply not needed for the height i run, but maybe you could get some ideas from this anyway. it's copy/pasted from another post.

a few years ago i ran some numbers in a link calculator, i did some longarm setups and some mid arm setups, some high clearance, some requiring floor modification, some low clearance, etc. And this is what I decided to settle on a couple days ago.



Why the low clearance? because i have never been hung up on my longarms that hung down just as much and went much further back. And if I made them high clearance it would require ripping apart my floor for some decent antisquat numbers. Also i achieved a much flatter control arm angle this way.

full droop






flexin er' out checkin clearances and whatnot, nothing comes in contact with anything except for tires into the fenders, i just need me some bumpstops. oil pan even has about 3" clearance from the truss at full compression (even though the darn thing always hit before)




AIR FLECKS


arm angle at ride height




here is one of the control arms. using 5 year old rockkrawler heims that have NEVER BEEN GREASED and are still tight as a..... "insert something tight here"
ballistic joints on the frame side. those tabs are for the shocks.

the upper control arm just uses 7/8" heim joints with a 5/8" bolt

here is the upper link mount. one cheap trick i have learned for link mounts is go to the harbor freight store and pick up some hitch tubing. it's the perfect width for many heim joints with misalignment spacers, and 3/16" thick. and come with a 5/8" hole, which is perfect for the bolt size i am running.




how she sits now. i'm not sure how much over stock she is, but my guess is 5". weird because the same coils netted me 4" on the old xj. looks like i need to weld some more metal on it.


WHAT do i think?
My last 2 jeeps with the radius arms rode pretty terrible, granted even with the rubber bushings. Then i cruised around with a 3" lift on stock control arms for a few months, and thought it rode pretty nice and I had people who rode with me who were jealous of the ride quality. The road i take to work sucks and my cd player would always skip maybe 20 times on the way to work. Now I coast over those bumps and I can't even tell they are there. I'm still amazed at the difference in ride quality.

NO it doesn't ride like a cadillac, and no jeep does no matter what longarms you put on it, anyone who tells you that is full of crap, but in its current form this is the nicest riding jeep I can remember being in (stock included).
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 08:12 AM
  #7  
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Great post, and not to change the subject, but what's with the Subaru grill??
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by JasonPrime
Great post, and not to change the subject, but what's with the Subaru grill??
allows me to rally race!
















there was an accident in front of where i work, and my grille on my jeep was missing. so i just zip tied it in lol
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 10:09 AM
  #9  
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From: IN
Year: 1989 Comanche
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Originally Posted by XJ450R
89eliminator that is just what I was looking for. so you didn't have any clearance issues mounting that inbetween the driveshaft and frame? also was there any calulation to the position of that upper mount? Im not sure how to explain that but I'm talking about the vertical and horizontal distance between the upper and lower frame mount, or how important is that geometry? Sorry i'm going to engineering i tend to over think things. thanx again for the pics
i never used a link calculator primarily for one reason. to get good seperation, you pretty much need to cut into the floors for the upper mounts. i did not want to do that. so i just mounted them as high as possible. for clearance issues, i just laid underneath the Jeep with a mount and a piece of 2" PVC to see where the best spot would be. all in all im extremely happy with how it performs.
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