I have a few questions about buying a Cherokee that has been totalled and the title, for the odometer is branded as "exceeded". The XJ in question is a '99, 5 speed, 4x4, 150k, and rust free.

This guy wrecked his XJ in 2012 and it was totalled by his insurance, he bought it back and put a bunch of parts on it, which include a front winch bumper, a rear plate bumper, a light rack on top with four lights that aren't wired up, a roof rack, 5 cragar D windows, head unit, speakers, heater core has been done, new radiatior, etc etc.

He showed me pictures from where it was wrecked and it didn't look all that bad. It was on the very edge of the bumper. He says the unibody is bent in the CL ad (http://roanoke.craigslist.org/cto/4843253825.html), however, upon closer inspection, it appears the passenger side lCA bracket is bent and cracked at the weld (on the axle). The axle is also shifted to the driver side by about an inch (stock track bar), the ad lists it as having a 6" in. lift, but it is most definitely not 6 inches. The swaybar link on the driver side is rubbing the coil, and the drag link is also bent at the adjustment. I've looked this thing up and down a number of times and I can't find a bend or crease in the frame anywhere. The thing that throws me off is the front bumper is noticeably pushed in on the driver side (about a 1/4" difference). So I'm wondering if the unibody is bent somewhere that I can't see or tell. I'm concerned about buying it, fixing everything I can, and then it not being right after the fact. All the body lines on the jeep appear to line up well.

From what I can tell, the jeep needs:
New LCA brackets
Adjustable track bar
Drag link

Is there anywhere where I may not be looking that could be bent? All the LCA brackets on the frame look good, uppers look good from what I can tell, track bar mount looks good, etc. The main thing turning me off is where the bumper is pushed in (something I can't see?). I'm wondering if this jeep is worth $1500 and the time to fix it. Any insight would be much appreciated.

 

Keep looking man. Please do not waste your money on this thing.

 

What do you plan on doing with this rig? If you want something I drive on the street, I'd pass. You'd be better off buying a relatively stock one for a similar price, and building it right. If your looking for a Jeep to beat the snot out of on the trail, sure go for it, but beat him down on the price.

My 2 pennies.

 

I agree with emptypockets. Keep looking. Hell I bought a 97 xj cheap that was in really good condition for the price, but with a repainted pass front fender and hatch because it was in an accident. The rear unibody is kinked and I thought nothing of it because it didnt lean or drive funny. Well when i lifted it it leaned and I had to do some weird things to make it sit level and its still kinked. Bugs me to this day every time i think about it. Even though I have grown to love this XJ it still bugs me alot. Pass on it and find one that hasnt been hit before.

 

I was planning on selling my current XJ in favor of this one to use as my other DD (I also have a corolla). My current XJ has a a few issues, as well. The interest came from it being a 5 speed and no rust. That can be hard to come by. Thanks for the quick responses and for the advice. I think I'll be passing on this one.

 

lifted "6 inch " xj on stock control arms and track bar.. that says cheap all over it you never know what else he did to **** it up

 

Yeah the "6in." lift thing threw me off, too. He told me it was either 6 or 8 inches.

He said he had taken a bunch of measurements off the Jeep to determine if the frame was bent, so i figured if he can't tell that isn't a 6 inch lift then he can't determine if the frame is straight. I have been pretty reluctant to buy because of all the discrepancies with this XJ. I'm glad I posted here before committing. Being cheap is expensive and hindsight is 20/20.

 

Looks like a 3 or 4 inch lift from the pictures.If it was 6 inches or more it would sit a lot higher then that.If the unibody is bent only way to really fix it is a body shop has to pull it back straight.For the price of that and having a salvage title id walk away or buy it for 500 bucks.With a salvage title a lot of insurance companies will not give you full coverage so if that matters to you walk away from it.

 

I must agree I would only buy it as a parts rig "Only" not that price and then consider the quality of the parts. If its an early model 99 it has the good engine with the good head on it also not the 0331 later in the year.