Brainstorm for my 99 build!
#1
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6 (4.0L)
I have a stock 99 cherokee sport (4.0). My rig is gonna be used mainly for mud and some trailing, I live in western pa (on the Ohio border) so there's not many rocks here to climb, all this being said I was kinda interested to hear some different ideas on what you would do with it (in a budget all around $4,000-$5,000)
Right now I'm thinking:
-6.5-8 inch lift (probably 6.5)
-Rear axle (hopefully cherokee D44 but idk if I can find one)
-35's with some fender trimming
-4.88 gear ratio
-Lockers
-SYE
-Bead locks?
Right now I'm thinking:
-6.5-8 inch lift (probably 6.5)
-Rear axle (hopefully cherokee D44 but idk if I can find one)
-35's with some fender trimming
-4.88 gear ratio
-Lockers
-SYE
-Bead locks?
Last edited by jeeper jason; 04-12-2013 at 01:21 AM.
#2
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L High Output
It looks like you already have it planned out pretty well. I don't think you will really need beadlocks though.I could be wrong... I mean you could lose a tire through the mud. Lol usually beadlocks better for rock crawling when your running really low psi and flexing the tire.
definitely would get lockers, they help out a lot
definitely would get lockers, they help out a lot
#3
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6 (4.0L)
It looks like you already have it planned out pretty well. I don't think you will really need beadlocks though.I could be wrong... I mean you could lose a tire through the mud. Lol usually beadlocks better for rock crawling when your running really low psi and flexing the tire.
definitely would get lockers, they help out a lot
definitely would get lockers, they help out a lot
#4
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L High Output
Wow, can't believe I forgot to throw in lockers, ok, might scratch the bead locks then, but if you didn't notice my list is very vague, this is my first cherokee let alone 4x4 so idk what good or what's bad, do I want air lockers or mechanical lockers, what's the difference, what companies are good or bad, stuff like that
Some could argue but as much as I love ARB air lockers if your playing a lot in the mud, I would get mechanical lockers like ox lockers or detroit lockers. I say this because in the mud you never know whats in there and if it cuts the air line your ARB stop working(back to open diff). Those lockers can easily range past $800 and should be put in at same time as the gears.
A cheaper option would be lunchbox lockers(powertrax, aussie, spartan, etc), They can be easily installed by a DIY in your driveway. Though, they don't hold up quite the same to abuse as the better lockers would. They are however a lot cheaper.
With a budget for about $4,500 your list will be vague until you start to get used to the new suspension and what your key goals will be. Base your upgrades from the top priority to lowest.
Lift(Clayton, BDS, TNT,Rubicon Express are nice pricey ones)(Rough country, pro comp, Rustys are cheaper and not as nice)you pay for what you ge, tires, gears and lockers should be at the top of the list for a good rounded start. One thing I learned is do it all at once. Like... don't put a 8" lift on it and run out of money for tires. When you do one thing it effects everything else.
Tires: Tires like general grabber come with 7ply tread making it puncture resistant good in mud, KM2's come with 3 trigaurd sidewall and good in mud, MT/R Kevlar are puncture resistant they are also good in mud) They usually suck on ice though... Tires like the wrangler duratracs are decent offroad but only have a 2 ply sidewall making them softer and easier to puncture, but do good in all types of weather for a DD)
If your more into mudding you don't really need long arms. That money could be spent on gears. Prioritize for what you do. Like I'm at 7.5" lift with 33's. With 33's I don't have to upgrade axles and can keep it pretty decent as a DD. With the 7.5" I worry less about high centering and when I go through mud or water I'm not worrying about dragging my drivetrain as deep when going through mud holes or rivers etc. However, I lose benefits of steep hill climbs to say a Low center of gravity jeep would do better or extremely off camber.) Build it for what you want out of it.
Last edited by Xj4lyfe; 04-12-2013 at 01:39 AM.
#5
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6 (4.0L)
Some could argue but as much as I love ARB air lockers if your playing a lot in the mud, I would get mechanical lockers like ox lockers or detroit lockers. I say this because in the mud you never know whats in there and if it cuts the air line your ARB stop working(back to open diff). Those lockers can easily range past $800 and should be put in at same time as the gears.
A cheaper option would be lunchbox lockers(powertrax, aussie, spartan, etc), They can be easily installed by a DIY in your driveway. Though, they don't hold up quite the same to abuse as the better lockers would. They are however a lot cheaper.
With a budget for about $4,500 your list will be vague until you start to get used to the new suspension and what your key goals will be. Base your upgrades from the top priority to lowest.
Lift(Clayton, BDS, TNT,Rubicon Express are nice pricey ones)(Rough country, pro comp, Rustys are cheaper and not as nice)you pay for what you ge, tires, gears and lockers should be at the top of the list for a good rounded start. One thing I learned is do it all at once. Like... don't put a 8" lift on it and run out of money for tires. When you do one thing it effects everything else.
Tires: Tires like general grabber come with 7ply tread making it puncture resistant good in mud, KM2's come with 3 trigaurd sidewall and good in mud, MT/R Kevlar are puncture resistant they are also good in mud) They usually suck on ice though... Tires like the wrangler duratracs are decent offroad but only have a 2 ply sidewall making them softer and easier to puncture, but do good in all types of weather for a DD)
If your more into mudding you don't really need long arms. That money could be spent on gears. Prioritize for what you do. Like I'm at 7.5" lift with 33's. With 33's I don't have to upgrade axles and can keep it pretty decent as a DD. With the 7.5" I worry less about high centering and when I go through mud or water I'm not worrying about dragging my drivetrain as deep when going through mud holes or rivers etc. However, I lose benefits of steep hill climbs to say a Low center of gravity jeep would do better or extremely off camber.) Build it for what you want out of it.
#6
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6 (4.0L)
Pretty sure I don't want air lockers, I plan to mud at Yanke lake truck night (it's a small 4x4 park near my town) so I wanna be able to put ppl in the hatch for a ride so I won't have space for an air tank, plus I wanna be able to install everything myself
#7
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With a air locker you just need a small air compressor no tanks.Another option for a rear end is a 96 and newer explorer 8.8 you will have to weld on new spring perches and shock mounts.The good news is they are easy to find and cheap and some even have a factory lsd.And they can be built up like a super 88 kit and axle truss.On your lift size and tires take a look at http://www.myjeepxj.com/cherokee-lift-kits
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#8
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
I have a stock 99 cherokee sport (4.0). My rig is gonna be used mainly for mud and some trailing, I live in western pa (on the Ohio border) so there's not many rocks here to climb, all this being said I was kinda interested to hear some different ideas on what you would do with it (in a budget all around $4,000-$5,000)
Right now I'm thinking:
-6.5-8 inch lift (probably 6.5)
-Rear axle (hopefully cherokee D44 but idk if I can find one)
-35's with some fender trimming
-4.88 gear ratio
-Lockers
-SYE
-Bead locks?
Right now I'm thinking:
-6.5-8 inch lift (probably 6.5)
-Rear axle (hopefully cherokee D44 but idk if I can find one)
-35's with some fender trimming
-4.88 gear ratio
-Lockers
-SYE
-Bead locks?
I'd say get a lift and tires first. I'd say go lower 4.5-5.5" and get long arms. A decent kit. One piece together maybe? Don't rush into anything. Do research. I'm wishing I would've built a 4 or 3 link setup instead of buying a radius arm upgrade. Lol 35s will still fit with trimming. Get good shocks.
Steering drag link and tie rod. You'll need to do something. Lots of options there
#9
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6 (4.0L)
With a air locker you just need a small air compressor no tanks.Another option for a rear end is a 96 and newer explorer 8.8 you will have to weld on new spring perches and shock mounts.The good news is they are easy to find and cheap and some even have a factory lsd.And they can be built up like a super 88 kit and axle truss.On your lift size and tires take a look at http://www.myjeepxj.com/cherokee-lift-kits
Don't try to do it all at once.
I'd say get a lift and tires first. I'd say go lower 4.5-5.5" and get long arms. A decent kit. One piece together maybe? Don't rush into anything. Do research. I'm wishing I would've built a 4 or 3 link setup instead of buying a radius arm upgrade. Lol 35s will still fit with trimming. Get good shocks.
Steering drag link and tie rod. You'll need to do something. Lots of options there
#10
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well that sites a lot of help, and I was leaning towards lunchbox lockers, also the 8.8 has a C-Clip which I was trying to avoid with a 44, but I might have to settle if I can't find one, also I don't have welding equipment which means I need to factor in shop costs
I don't know anything about steering, might be my next research topic, and why go for a lower lift? If I wanna build a mud rig wouldn't more hight be better
I don't know anything about steering, might be my next research topic, and why go for a lower lift? If I wanna build a mud rig wouldn't more hight be better
as for steering you can build or buy something. inverted t or "crossover" will work fine. relocate the track bar accordingly
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ngresearch.htm
#11
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6 (4.0L)
don't pay a shop for anything. find someone local say you have $20 and some beer. I'd help you swap the entire axle for that cost. 8.8 has a weaker carrier I'd go full case grizzly or full spool. then weld the axle tubes to the housing. I have an 8.8c rear with 35" tires and abuse it pretty good. it's the one thing on my jeep I have never had a single problem with
as for steering you can build or buy something. inverted t or "crossover" will work fine. relocate the track bar accordingly
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ngresearch.htm
#12
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Model: Cherokee
Yeah find you a local welder most will do the work cheap if you catch them between jobs.As far as the c clips they make c clip eliminator kits yukon and superior both have a kit for that explorer 8.8.Axle stress mudding just depends on a lot of things like tires speed and if you get stuck.If you drive smart and don't hold it to the floor when you get stuck i don't think you'll break anything.
#13
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6 (4.0L)
Well after getting stuck pretty good this weekend i decided front recovery points and possibly a winch should also make the list, I was thinking about a 9,000lb engo winch
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