I'd personally would just go long arms up front, I think you have plenty and well proportioned space in your wheel wells, just need to adjust your axle to be more centered in the well. Frank at Serious or B. Lee makes a great kit as well.

 

Decided I'm going to lift it to 6". Should I get the IRO fixed LA or go with the adjustable LA?

 

Absolutely go with adjustable arms.

Doesn't the iro kit have a camber adjustment plate or something weird like that?

 

I'm running iro adjustable Long arms at 6in of lift on 35s I've ran it with the axle pushed forward an 1in and at what the fixed length would be. I ended up with my axle 1/2in forward over fixed length . Will it be stable at 6.5in you shouldn't have any problems. I've only flopped mine once and thats only because the guys I was wheeling with thought it would be funny to push me the rest of the way over.
One more thing get the flex joint for the control arm mount on the axle side the stock upper bushing doesn't last very long at all.
I'm also running the longest D tech shocks up front with BPE and limiting straps that still need to be installed so my coil doesn't fall out.
So only around 4in of up travel that just keeps the 35 out of the finder.

 

Micro rant here...It all depends on what he's doing with the jeep. Where I'm at, everyone I know just does mudding. That's it. There are very very few public trails here as maine is 98% privately owned. I want as much lift as possible just to keep my doors above the water. Plus where I'm at, you can't legally go flareless, and you don't wanna cut and take your chances of being forced to put garden edging on to stay legal if the lenient inspection station you usually go to somehow closes down. And I'm not saying he lives in a state like mine, but all the time I see people on here just saying "man up and cut your flares. Do 33s stock." Some people just legally and practically can't do that.

Rant over.

 

Yeah the IRO kit has the caster adjustment that allows up 7.5 degrees of adjustability. Thanks for y'all's input, I'm going to go with adjustable arms, might as well do it right once.


I mostly do trails and rocks. I want start doing more rocks once I get my LA installed. I would cut more but the rear is already cut up to the pinch seam, and I can't really cut much more where it rubs.

 

Nice to know your front axle moved forward a little with adjustable arms. I plan on bumpstopping and buying these to extend the length of my shocks for more droop.

 

Being your buying new wheels be sure that you get the proper BS on them that being a 15x8 with a 3 3/4 to 4" max BS solves some of the problems before they start. A 10" wheel doesn't let you air down with the size tires your planning on running or at least on mine and consider steel over alloy for a trail wheel JMHO again.


I'm at 4 1/2"'s of lift and no plans of going higher because of where I wheel at but do plan on a long arm kit. Now at that height I run 33's and 35" on beadlocks at times depending on what trails I plan on running, thanks to an idea from another member here on re-grooving used 35" tires. Many thanks to him saved me a ton of money.


If it were me I would lose the flares you have and cut the fenders to take advantage of all the money your spending on "Flex" to only lose it. Cut it properly so no bump stops required most of the time, and use aftermarket flares if they are required in your state (not in mine) and lawn edging isn't the only option you have but very cost effective.

 

Where does bump stopping limit you? My suspension is set up for droop over uptravel. Look at these pics, bump stopped and limit straps... Where am I limited with this setup? No where, because uptravel doesn't equate mad flex.

 

I can't post two pics off my phone in one post for some reason.