What do you think the best axle and gear setup. Just wana get every ones opinion in the subject.

 

Depends on what you're looking to use it for; mud, rock climbing, street, tire size, locker?

 

I'm my case DD and mud w/ 33' and day to 35'

 

4.56 gears

 

But with what axles

 

Moved to Chat.

 

I would honestly run an 8.8 or a 29 spline 8.25 trussed, 4.56 gearing with either a selectable or soft locker out back.

up front I would run a waggy 44 with 4.56 gearing, trussed with a selectable up front.

The "best" axle set up tho would be a set of Dyna Track Dana 60's front and rear, A semi Float D60 with the clearance of a D44 and 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern still, and can be set up anyway you want. 4.56's or 4.88's, with OX lockers front and rear

 

I've always liked the waggy 44 up front with a ford 9 inch in the rear if your runnin 35's plus. Of course 4.56's and the lockers like 96 said. I've herd of trimming the 9 inch for clearance, be cheaper than new 60's

 

Is the Ford 9" hard to find and off what car can u get it off of

 

alot of fords used it. mainly broncos (easiest to find)


just make sure it is a big bearing style

 

a 9" from an old bronco is going to be very close to your stock width and a little harder to find. a 9" from an older f-150 is easier to find, but will be approx. 4" wider. (which is not a bad thing - more stability, etc.). Like the other poster said - it's ALL about what you want to do, and as importantly, what size tire you want to run. The dana 30 front is actually a fairly stout axle if you put the yukon chromolly axle shafts in it (up to about a 35" tire). any axle with a locker is going to be a little harder on the shafts. I ran a ford 8.8 fully locked (welded carrier) from an explorer in the back, the dana 30 with chromolly's and an ARB up front; and ran 36" IROK bias-ply tires on some pretty gnarly trails and never had an issue. That being said, I now run full-width fully locked & chromo'd hd dana60 up front and a full-width, fully locked dana 70 in the rear - but I'm running 40"ltb bias super-swampers and I do not drive it on the street. just my .02cents

 

My next build will be on Unimogs, factory lockers, 6.17 gears, just as strong as a rockwell and tons of ground clearance.

 

I think F150's would be the cheapest bet 44 front and 9 in back some come with 4.10's and its a good start so you can still drive it on the road. Then you can choose your reduction later gears in axles or something with the t-case. I'm still trying to find a 60 front to match my rear and it's not eazy to find one for a good price.

 

The 44/9 combo is easy to find, got a set sitting in the back yard now, and the F150 versions can be had without cast wedges unlike the Bronco version found in 78-79. Much cheaper than tons too.

 

X2. F150 is easier to find. also look for a 14bolt+D60 (or 44) combo. most times u can get the whole truck for under a 1000 bucks. that way u can use the entire steering setup including the steering box, u will have usable brake components most times. and if u luck out, u can find a redneck that blew the motor, doesn't wanna mess with it, all else is good, selling for under $1000 including large tires and wide wheels. most of these trucks will not be geared correctly and will have welded differentials, but not always.
that is if u hate asphalt.
if u wanna put it on the road, most times C8.25 and D30 is by far your best bet. set up some 4.88s, keep the tire size under 35, do your regular upgrades (injectors, air filter, bigger tb, headers, cat, muffler), tie your right shoestring around your neck, adjust your brakes and u MIGHT get about 15 city/18 highway regularly.
however, i have heard of fantasy gas mileages like 20mpg highway with 35s and such. once upon a time in mexico is not a regular gas mileage.