96 XJ - Low Miles - First Fluid Advice
#1
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96 XJ - Low Miles - First Fluid Advice
Just bought a 96 XJ with 49k miles. Which means that it has been sitting garaged for a long time. It runs perfectly, and sounds great. It is bone stock.
4.0L I6
I'm putting together a plan for my initial maintenance, and wanted to get some advice about fluids.
I am trying to find advice for the following:
1. What would be the oil type recommendation for an older vehicle but with very low miles?
2. Is there anything I should do special with oil at first, considering that it has not been driven as frequently as most vehicles?
3. I plan on replacing all fluids, is there anything I should take into consideration?
I figured asking here would be a good way to get some good advice. My other choice is to ask the teenager at Advanced Auto and then do the exact opposite of whatever he recommends. I figure 90% of the time, that would give a pretty good result.
4.0L I6
I'm putting together a plan for my initial maintenance, and wanted to get some advice about fluids.
I am trying to find advice for the following:
1. What would be the oil type recommendation for an older vehicle but with very low miles?
2. Is there anything I should do special with oil at first, considering that it has not been driven as frequently as most vehicles?
3. I plan on replacing all fluids, is there anything I should take into consideration?
I figured asking here would be a good way to get some good advice. My other choice is to ask the teenager at Advanced Auto and then do the exact opposite of whatever he recommends. I figure 90% of the time, that would give a pretty good result.
#2
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Welcome Jordan.
Trans takes about 3.8 quarts of Dex/Merc III fluid. Only drain and fill it. There's a plug so no need to pull the pan.
As for oil, I would use Rotella and a Wix filter.
Changing brake fluid? I would.
Diffs take regular old 90 weight gear oil.
Transfer case takes the same fluid as the trans. About 2 quarts.
Trans takes about 3.8 quarts of Dex/Merc III fluid. Only drain and fill it. There's a plug so no need to pull the pan.
As for oil, I would use Rotella and a Wix filter.
Changing brake fluid? I would.
Diffs take regular old 90 weight gear oil.
Transfer case takes the same fluid as the trans. About 2 quarts.
#3
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Welcome Jordan. Trans takes about 3.8 quarts of Dex/Merc III fluid. Only drain and fill it. There's a plug so no need to pull the pan. As for oil, I would use Rotella and a Wix filter. Changing brake fluid? I would. Diffs take regular old 90 weight gear oil. Transfer case takes the same fluid as the trans. About 2 quarts.
#4
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
#5
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Thanks for the tips guys.
I was concerned that with how infrequently the vehicle has been used, that the oil situation might be ugly inside. And if I should employ any type of strategy to be safe on that. Yesterday, I popped the oil cap and inspected down into the valve cover, and it actually looked WAY better than I was fearing. It was clean, and the oil looked good, and I didn't see any immediate evidence of deposits or sludge, or even any stuck-on dark patches. It just looked like new metal with good oil coverage on everything.
I'm thinking about having a shop (where the manager is a friend) do all the fluids for me, so that he can alert me to anything needing immediate attention. I can do all the work myself, but he has a lot more experience than I do, and I'd hate to miss something early on, due to lack of experience. He won't charge me an arm an a leg. I have to get it inspected at a shop anyway, so it must just be better to do it all at once. I'll have him quote me and see. If its labor intensive (ie. expensive due to time), I'll do it myself and just ask for additional advice from those that know better.
I was concerned that with how infrequently the vehicle has been used, that the oil situation might be ugly inside. And if I should employ any type of strategy to be safe on that. Yesterday, I popped the oil cap and inspected down into the valve cover, and it actually looked WAY better than I was fearing. It was clean, and the oil looked good, and I didn't see any immediate evidence of deposits or sludge, or even any stuck-on dark patches. It just looked like new metal with good oil coverage on everything.
I'm thinking about having a shop (where the manager is a friend) do all the fluids for me, so that he can alert me to anything needing immediate attention. I can do all the work myself, but he has a lot more experience than I do, and I'd hate to miss something early on, due to lack of experience. He won't charge me an arm an a leg. I have to get it inspected at a shop anyway, so it must just be better to do it all at once. I'll have him quote me and see. If its labor intensive (ie. expensive due to time), I'll do it myself and just ask for additional advice from those that know better.
#6
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Year: 1990
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Good idea.
Oil doesn't sludge up just sitting there BTW.
Oil doesn't sludge up just sitting there BTW.
#7
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I didn't know that. What causes sludge? Is it infrequent changes with poor filtration?. (I know its a basic question, and could ask google), but wouldn't mind being educated by you here as well.
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#8
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Year: 1990
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Yes. That's what causes sludge. Shine a light into the oil filler hose and assess the sludge.
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