Well since you mention this is your DD/WW I wouldn't go over 4.5". For a 33" tire a 4.5" lift is more than enough. LOW IS THE NEW HIGH. Back in the day when I bought my XJ 11 yrs ago it was all about getting as high as you could. People have wised up over the years and here are some things to consider;

- Anything over 4" and you will need an SYE and new rear driveline (more $$).
- The higher you lift it, the higher your center of gravity (COG) becomes, making for a potentially unstable and dangerous rig.
- Ride quality and comfort will be light years ahead at 4.5" vs 6.5"
- At 6.5" of lift, you better be doing a WJ knuckle swap and building an OTK steering setup, otherwise the extreme steering angles will make your jeep hate you and the stock tie rod and drag link will bring the suck. Your steering box will hate you too.
- You will eat through front drive shaft u-joints due to the angle of your DS.
- You will need to shim your rear and point it at the SYE for proper driveline angle

Bottom line, TRUST ME - if you want a capable DD/WW that you can comfortably cruise down the road in and hit up all kinds of trails, I would stay with 4.5". Less parts and components, less complicated, every bit as capable. Remember, when you alter/upgrade one area, there is a domino affect and you will need to alter/upgrade other areas.

My jeep is still running 6" of lift from when I originally put this kit on 9 yrs ago. It's just too much lift for 33's. I am in the process of getting ready to lower it 1.5 to 2 inches. You can see the evolution of my XJ here in my intro thread; https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f8/another-utard-37805/

One last thing, are you planning on regearing for the 33's?

 

X2 on what brad said. He hit every point that i was too lazy to type

 

Heres mine with 5.5 inch lift with 33's.

 

MAN!!! it couldnt of been said any better. well before ive checked up on tis thread i made my decision on doing the RC 4.5 full packs and 33's. i will be doing a H&T because i have the NP242 and i dont want to swap TC to have a real SYE kit. and no i will not be regearing at the moment. im accepting the fact that my rig will run like a dog for now but im not too worried because i get crappy MPG's now....

 

If you find an XJ in a junkyard that had the 4cyl and 5speed, those axles have 4.10's and will bolt right in.

 

oh! and one more thing. since im doing the lift and a H&T i was planning on doing to shim the rear to even the driveline angle out. but a buddy of mine told me to buy new perches and weld them on with the axle rotated correctly. now i know someone who can do it well. but am i better off doing the shim option or welding new perches with the axle rotated??? im at a loss now...

 

Nothing really wrong with shims as long as you get the steel ones. Aluminum ones will break

 

another thing i was wondering about too. when the axle is rotated wont the shock mounts be out or whack too? im thinking of chopping it and moving them upward. for one to realign them and to make them clear rocks and stuff from getting snagged.

 

it really depend on how wide the tires are! if there 12.5 inchs wide then ur gonna rub on the 4.5 kit. i have a RC 4.5 kit with control arm drop so its pretty much a LA. i have taken the flares off and cut off the lower fender bracket. i dont have the inner fender lining anymore. i took the bumper caps off tonight and tomorrow im gonna cut my fenders to level off from the headlight. then im gonna cut the bumper cap so it doesnt have anything there. they rub a lil only when im flexed and turning alllllll the way. i like the lower CG look

 

no, im tlking about the rear. and wait. im getting 12.50 so i WILL rub in front. i already trimmed the fenders and my bumper caps. and i have some craiger soft 8's but idk the BS yet.

 

ok so with the RC 4.5" and the 1" BB. what degree shim will i need and where can i get them??? and am i going to be ok with the shocks in the rear since the shim will rotate the axle?????