You can't beat the reliability of the 4.0. It is known as one of the toughest engines ever built. However, as all car geeks know, sometimes we just need a little or a lot more. I will be buying a spare engine and tranny for my XJ build, and I am debating whether or not to go with a stroker kit. My reasoning is not for high horsepower, don't really need it for my application, but I would like the added torque.Also, I do not really want to go a bigger bore, but might go slight. I know a lot of people say just do a V8 swap, but it's not my preference. What setup do you run/plan to run, and why?

 

Look into simple stroker or poor man's stroker

 

Agreed.

If you want torque, stick to bottom end mods. You could just do a mild cam and be fine, but if you're doing a stroker, from scratch, with a spare block, I would recommend a slight bore over...it's all gonna be apart anyways, just do a mild bore and pistons, mild cam, and some injectors, and you'll be happy...yeah, you can port and polish, and do all kinds of other top end mods, but our rigs are not ricers...no need to squeeze every bit of HP out of them, unless you're a racing fanatic.

A link for you. Go read and enjoy...and of course, LEARN, LMAO...

https://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/

Also, FWIW, my specs...

Bored 30 Over
4.2 Crank
4.2 Connecting rods
Melling High Volume Oil Pump
.020 King main bearings
.010 King Connecting Rod Bearings
.030 Silvolite Pistons
.030 Hastings Piston Rings
King Cam Bearings
Elgin Performance Cam
Johnson Hydraulic Lifters
Engine Pro Timing Chain set
Fresh Head with new valves and valve springs
All new gaskets (No oil Leaks).
Venom 25 LB fuel injectors
Gibson Stainless steel ceramic coated header

Now, I got lucky...I found this motor on CL, and it was built by a guy who worked for Currie, with a lot industry professionals who guided him. Only had 10K on the build, so already broken in. I basically replaced everything I could, short of the long block, so new sensors, WP, thermostat, etc, etc...added the Gibson header, painted it, and dropped it in. Got it for $2500. After adding new parts, mounts, all that jazz, I would say I'm into it total around $3800-$4k.

Would I do it again?

IN A HOT MINUTE.

Totally worth every penny. Runs great, sounds killer, peppier than Jolt cola, and torque for days. And, although I have to run premium gas, it does well mileage wise...with the proper gearing for my tires, I'm getting between 15-18 MPG. Of course, that's average, so it does fluctuate, but we all know how that goes, LOL

 

Much appreciated guys. I'm really looking in depth to your build Xjwonders. It's almost the exact route I had in plan for mine. Just as soon as the pans are done.. so time consuming.

I'll take that average any day on a stroker! I had a 383 build in my Z71. Had to run premium with octance booster. Fuel mileage? Roughly 10 mpg.. average.

A mild cam and nice air flow is pretty much a must for me. I don't care for an offroad vehicle to be quick, but I do love when an engine starts talking. (Of course not literally.)

 

I did the poor mans stroker in my 99xj with the comp 252-200-4 cam and the torque inverse was great. i did a lot of research and this cam turned up as the best torque producer and still mild enough to run with NEW stock valave springs. I have around $1800 in mine. I have a list of the parts in my build thread. You could do it for a lot less. I bought my crank new because I could not find a good used one. I have around 7500miles on mine and runs like a top

 

That cam and valve spring combo sounds interesting....

 

Finding valve springs besides stock that don't need head work to fit is becoming difficult. Stock valve springs are good to 0.440", some even say 0.450" lift.


I would bore to 0.060".

 

This is the reason why I choose the cam that I did

 

What oct. fuel does yours require for no knock/ping?


I have been playing with several different builds that will make the cut with 87 oct. if need be on an engine build program and desk top dyno. Still not there yet with the parts available for the 4.0 my hat is off to those who may have done so with experience on jeeps.

 

I would like to know this as well.

 

You can get custom forged pistons with different pin heights to decrease Quench and this will help power and resist detonation. Or you can deck to block. Goal in 0.00" deck height, reasonable piston dish to keep compression in check and use 0.043" head gasket.

 

I ran premium fuel at first but I have been running regular and had no issues. I did the long rod version only because I had already bought 4.0 pistons. I would do a short rod version using the 4.0 rods and 4.2 crank if I were to do it again. But on a budget works fine.

 

Here is a link to the cam. It says don't work with fuel injection but it will just fine.

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...px?csid=8&sb=0

 

Interesting build, especially with that cam and lifter combo! I was going to be looking at re-doing the entire top end along with the bottom, but I may not after reading this. I'm not looking for a devil child offroad vehicle, and this seems proper. Eh, I'll probably change my mind a thousand times before I make a final decision. Anyone ever checked to see if Lunati makes cams for our engines? I really enjoyed the ones they make for my old Z.


Biggest thing is I'm in no hurry. I'll be going back to truck driving in the next few months and just whenever I've home time is when it'll get put together. So she'll probably be on an engine stand for a couple weeks at a time before getting touched again.

 

What "Z"?