I paid $820 shipped (brand new) for my Hobart 210 MVP. Works on both 110v and 220v. Just remember there will be a lot of expenses with all the gear you'll need after.

 

Indeed, you will need to buy consumables, safety gear, like a hood, gloves and jacket, and various other bits and tools to be a competent welder...good clamps of various design are a must, welding magnets are handy to have as well, and you can buy different jigs and such for doing corners and the like...just like anything, you can spend a lot of money in accessories, to perpetuate the hobby, LMAO!

The nice part is you can buy a lot of it as you go, so wait until you need it to buy it.

Also, spend the money and get a quality hood. Do the HF ones work? Yeah...I have one. But I let other people use it now, like if someone is helping me with something, I let them wear the HF hood...I got a middle-line Huntsman Nitro, and it's my daily hood right now, ran about $120. Really want a Miller Titanium series, but can't justify that amount of coin for one at this time.

 

I have a hobart handler 140 if I remember right. Ive used it a while back to practice some welds. I dont have any gas yet, but im needing to use my welder soon to maybe weld in a new floor pan on my passenger side. I am still not very good at figuring out my wire speed and heat yet. Any tips?

 

There should be a chart inside the door where the wire spool is. This will get in the ball park.

 

Thanks duh...I forgot about that chart being in there. I havent touched my welder in a long time. I gotta get a bottle of gas. All I have currently is fluxcore.

 

flux core is fine to learn on. it's just a little messy so you will have to grind off any splatter. flap disc is great for this.

if you're gonna burn some metal outside, flux core is better suited unless you have a shield curtain.

don't hurry for the bottle until you burn some flux core.

when you get a bottle, just remember to switch the leads inside the welder and change the drive wheel to the size of solid wire you will be using.

 

So I'm going to be patching in my floor pan very soon. So would I just tack it in place. Run the plug welds on the frame and then run a bead between my tack welds

 

you can do it that way, sure. but when you run your beads, be sure to just stitch them in a bit then let them cool. you can use a wet rag dipped in a bucket of water.
weld your beads in a star pattern to equally disperse the heat, cooling the welds after each one.
i would usually weld about a 4 inch stitch at a time.

too much heat and you will warp the crap out of the patch panel.

just take your time. let things cool.


also, be aware of any brake, trans or fuel lines under your welds. and be sure to disconnect your battery first too.

 

Anyone know of any tips or tricks to be able to weld the floorin my cargo area without having to drop the gas tank.... or and I just SOL?

 

I would pretty much call you SOL, especially if you have my luck. If there is one flammable thing within 50 feet, I'm going to light it up.

 

gas tank has to come out. but it's the best time to put in a new sending unit.
gas tank straps are cheap. i think i paid 30 bux for brand new ones a few months ago. that was straps and bolts, but if you just cut the bolts, you can either weld the bolts back up or find just the bolts somewhere.

 

Ugh.... fiiiiine. I gotta drop the tank anyway to modify the breather tube for more gallons anyway... may as well get the JB weld and copper elbow ready and do it all in one shot.

 

Some stuff I been building at work...








Making all my gussets from scratch, 3/8" thick steel...using 7018 5/32" electrodes when I do the final welding....BTW it's a pushblade for a forklift...

 

Wish THAT was my job... instead of sitting in a chair behind a desk for 12 hours a day.

 

I get paid to build stuff. It is pretty cool. Most everything I do is out of leftover remnants too. That pusher was made from leftovers, as were these tire sweepers...