Practiced my welds.

 

Im trying to get into welding, whats the difference between 7018 and 6010?

 

1,008 in difference

 

wow forgot about this thread! I got to do some welding on my e30 yay. First time welding upside down and was only able to weld one handed...welds looked like crap lol

 

Speaking of upside down, does anyone have any advice welding frame stiffeners?

 

6010 is a deep penetrating, fast freeze rod, a little more difficult to use, requires some manipulation like whip and pause...the 60 in 6010 is the tensile strength of the rod (60,000 lbs), 1 indicates what position it can be run in (all positions), and the 0 at the end indicates flux composition...

7018 is a low hydrogen rod, meaning it doesn't like moisture. They should be stored in a rod oven. 7018 is a structural rod, used widely throughout the industry. More of a drag rod, that has higher tensile strength (70,000 lbs)...produces strong yet ductile welds.

 

I've yet to do frame stiffeners.

 

in my experience welding on the unibody you have to be careful not to blow through the metal. since the stiffeners are a thicker metal (requiring a bit more heat) what i did is set my welder on a lower setting, built up a thick weld on the unibody, then increased the heat and welded the weld to the stiffener. i also made sure to get enough surface area weld on the unibody to spread the load. i don't claim to be an expert, so somone else might have a better suggestion but that is what worked for me.

 

Lol, idk about building up any weld on unibody. It's 2-3 seconds and you'll put a hole in it easy. Use think you want enough heat to burn into the stiffener and then move it to kiss the unibody. I know ideally you don't want to add more heat than you have to either.

I sure wish a good welder had a video of this process to mimic what they are doing.

 

ya, i burned some holes. what seemed to work for me is using a 1 or 2 setting on my hobart 140 to build it then i used a hotter setting for the thicker metal. i think what your suggesting with keeping the heat on the thicker metal and briefly touching the unibody is a good idea.

 

Exactly that. You need to favor the thicker metal, and let the puddle "wick" into the thinner metal.

 

So I can just pool in onto the thick and flick it onto the thin or just let it melt out until it reached the thin then move?

Also I'm think about hooligan mids, any advice on filling the slits that allow it to bend or is it kinda tack it on and fill it up, seemingly and odd groove to connect thinner material underneath to, but also filling out the weld of the thicker part. Seems a ways to get wire In lol.


Any recommendations on keeping the weld on the material vs growing outward or becoming slag blasted everywhere.

I'm using a Hobart 210mvp.

 

After a few hours of practice here is my downhill 2 pass corner weld. Such accurate welding terms i know lol

 

Either way is fine, just watch what the puddle is doing. If you're too far into the thin material, you'll know quickly, Haha

You can fill those gaps, you might need multiple passes to completely fill.

I'll gather from your last statement, you're using fluxcore wire? I wouldn't recommend fluxcore for this job, fluxcore burns hotter. Get a bottle and solid wire, it will make it easier.

 

No sir, I'm using c25, .030 wire, 220v, I've tried very little upside down odd angle welding and the puddle does not wet out the same as when gravity is helping lol.