Both my Huntsman Nitro and my Cornwell hoods were around $120, both were good hoods, the Nitro electronics started having issues after several years, and I needed a good hood right away, so I got the Cornwell which I' m still using, the only problem is I can't get coverglass for it easily. Only reason I'm buying a new hood.

 

I bought my Jackson manual hood for 39.99

 

And there is still always analog.

 

I bought a $170 DC Inverter Stick Welder from Amazon a few weeks ago, for work on my Jeep and trucks and around the house. Been practicing and stuff. This is the one I got: http://amzn.to/2GlZrLt I really think it's a very good value and I like it a lot.

Do you think I'm crazy to try stick welding on a cherokee? Especially the sheet metal?

BTW, what thickness is the sheet metal used on our Cherokees? 16 gauge? Are the "frame rails" any thicker?

 

I think that everybody makes one of these after buying their first welder.

Behold my tower of horrors:



Yes that is galvanized electrical conduit and yes I'm being careful not not breath in the fumes. No the fumes cannot kill you but they can make you sick as a dog for a few days. Thankfully I didn't experience any symptoms.

I figured out that 1/8" 7014 was the wrong rod for welding thin wall cheap pipe together. I got a pack of 3/32" 6013 and it was much better.

So my welds got a little better bus still pretty ugly compared to MIG welding.



But now I have badass roof rack bars



That was my practice project. Next I might get a DIY bumper kit that you weld together the metal they have cut for you. I also need to fix my trailer, make some skid plates, etc.

BTW I now have mad respect for those guys building exo cages and custom bumpers. Fabricating is hard!

 

Thanks man. Much appreciated.

I'll keep that in mind if I get an itch for a manual hood. I really prefer an auto though.

I believe the sheet metal on the fenders, etc is 20ga, the floors are 18, and the frame rails are 14. I really wouldn't use a stick welder on any of them. Typically, the thinnest metal that's recommended for a stick welder is 10ga.

 

My advice to you...go to your local weld shop. Explain your situation, they'll get you in the right hood for your application, at the price point you want. Lincoln makes a great mid grade hood. As does Jackson (AKA Huntsman)...They'll get you right.

 

Right on... There's an Airgas not too far from where I work. Might stop by there on the way home one morning.... would be a good excuse to get a longer workout in at the gym at work too....

 

I wouldn't use stick for any sheet metal. Gonna burn right through it. The frame rails are basically several layers of sheet metal sandwiched together. I think the sheet metal for body panels is around 18 gauge IIRC. The stick will work for axle tubes and such, but I wouldn't use it for anything unibody related or sheet metal.
Fabricating is hard work. You need to know what you're doing for sure. What process to use for what material, how to get it all prepped and cut and so on.

I've been doing this professionally for several years now, and learn something new almost daily, LOL. Plus I still have a lot to learn...Not very familiar with TIG yet. High on the list.

Just keep it up, man. Time under the hood is the best teacher.

Rack looks great, BTW. Cool first project!

Also...when welding galvanized stuff, grind that stuff off before welding, as much as you can away from the weld, it will be much better. And good job avoiding the fumes. It will however kill you eventually, if you keep breathing that crap in, haha

 

Thanks!

What if I "plug weld" it by drilling holes in the sheet metal, clamping it to whatever I'm welding it to, then filling in the holes? That's what I was going to try.

What about welding thick metal to the sheet metal? Like rock sliders

 

Man, you might have done yourself a better service by getting at least a wire feed for working these. You are playing with more thin metal than you ever will thick metal on these. You can also still weld thick metal with a wire feed, but it is next to impossible to do it the other way around.

 

x2...I've always heard the advice to get a decent mig/wire feed type welder as your first welder. Offers more variety of what from what I have heard.

 

Especially if you are welding on these. You can make several passes with a wire feed to weld thick stuff if you need to. But there ain't much of that you will ever run across on these. The class three hitch maybe...

Stick welder is for heavy equipment work or pipe fitting. Maybe roll cages at best on these if you really know what you are doing.

 

Some vids of the new hood.

 

The stick unit isn't a BAD buy...but for what we do on our rigs, a MIG is the better bet.

Keep the stick, or sell it to get a MIG unit...I personally like having tools, haha...but I know pockets are kinda shallow.

Check out Eastwood, Lincoln, and Hobart units, make sure they're 220 or dual voltage, it will do most everything you want...I have a Miller 211, but they're a bit pricier. That said, I do this for a living, and Miller is the gold standard. IMO

Get the best you can afford.