Welding thread!!!!
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,127
Likes: 0
From: Capac, Mi
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
suggestion time. I am looking for a good lower priced 110v mig or flux welder that i can teach myself to use.
We have a big *** miller in our barn but it's currently setup to weld on the farm equipment and i dont want to change the settings on it, in other words i dont need my father in law flipping his lid if they aren't set back correctly.
We have a big *** miller in our barn but it's currently setup to weld on the farm equipment and i dont want to change the settings on it, in other words i dont need my father in law flipping his lid if they aren't set back correctly.
No, I don't lick fish.



Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
suggestion time. I am looking for a good lower priced 110v mig or flux welder that i can teach myself to use.
We have a big *** miller in our barn but it's currently setup to weld on the farm equipment and i dont want to change the settings on it, in other words i dont need my father in law flipping his lid if they aren't set back correctly.
We have a big *** miller in our barn but it's currently setup to weld on the farm equipment and i dont want to change the settings on it, in other words i dont need my father in law flipping his lid if they aren't set back correctly.
Lincoln
Hobart
Miller
Every time I've asked that question, I was told to look for welders made by one of those three... here and anywhere else I've asked.
You definitely get what you pay for though. That much is for certain.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,104
Likes: 2
From: San Antonio, TX
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
they're owned by the same parent company so they share a lot of the same tech but hobart's aren't near as serviceable as a miller since they're geared more for consumer use.
that being said my 110 miller works pretty well
No, I don't lick fish.



Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,127
Likes: 0
From: Capac, Mi
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,104
Likes: 2
From: San Antonio, TX
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
the lincoln sp is a nice little machine.
any lincoln "mig pack" or "HD" is plastic part department store. the HD standing for Home Depot, not Heavy Duty.
a good lincoln will say "Power Mig" on it.
there are other good mig machines out there, like Tweco or Thermal Arc (same company) that are priced right in our price range.
any lincoln "mig pack" or "HD" is plastic part department store. the HD standing for Home Depot, not Heavy Duty.
a good lincoln will say "Power Mig" on it.
there are other good mig machines out there, like Tweco or Thermal Arc (same company) that are priced right in our price range.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,127
Likes: 0
From: Capac, Mi
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
im doing floors on my XJ, 3x5 rockers, and a few other misc projects on it. I will also be doing floors on my 47 ****** overland. and patching my 47 *****'s jeep body. I wont be doing much major welding.
::CF Administrator::





Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 14,479
Likes: 805
From: Blunt, South Dakota
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.6 stroker
What I've been up to this week.
If you compare the right and left side of the photo, you'll see the 3" difference, LOL...needs to be 39" square all around, off by 1.5" on one side, 3 on the other.

Took some 1" thick flat stock, got the measurements, cut the angle, clamped on. Put us right at 38.5", so we'll hit 39 when we add the 1/2 plate of AR on the top.



Couple of shots that show the difference side to side.


Lining up the rest of the ribs. Gonna trim those out today. Hope to have them tack welded in. We'll see how today goes.

My brochacho Cal...taking more wrong measurements, LOL

If you compare the right and left side of the photo, you'll see the 3" difference, LOL...needs to be 39" square all around, off by 1.5" on one side, 3 on the other.

Took some 1" thick flat stock, got the measurements, cut the angle, clamped on. Put us right at 38.5", so we'll hit 39 when we add the 1/2 plate of AR on the top.



Couple of shots that show the difference side to side.


Lining up the rest of the ribs. Gonna trim those out today. Hope to have them tack welded in. We'll see how today goes.

My brochacho Cal...taking more wrong measurements, LOL

No, I don't lick fish.



Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Well.... pics are crappy... but so are my welds, so here 'goes.
I'm throwing an old Jeep axle under my 4x8 trailer 'cause I'm tired of replacing the useless teeny tiny tires every couple of years. I'm using an old D35 non-c axle that someone "traded" me for a good D35c. The ring and pinion in this one was shot, so I removed the ring gear and reinstalled the carrier to help keep the axleshaft ends in place. I got a set of 1.5" hubcentric spacers to go on it, but after measuring, I realized that my leaf perches were 4" too narrow (2" on each side) of being able to work. So I modified some XJ rear swaybar brackets to work. These perfectly match the 1.5" wide leafs already on my trailer. I'll replace all the perches when I go to weld on the mounts for XJ leafs under it... way down the road.
Anyway.... my welds still suck... but they're looking better, and I definitely like the Lincoln wire better than the HF crap (thanks for the suggestion). Even SOUNDS better when welding with it.



I did these welds in pretty crappy light, so I'll probably end up going back and stacking a couple of beads over 'em.
I'm throwing an old Jeep axle under my 4x8 trailer 'cause I'm tired of replacing the useless teeny tiny tires every couple of years. I'm using an old D35 non-c axle that someone "traded" me for a good D35c. The ring and pinion in this one was shot, so I removed the ring gear and reinstalled the carrier to help keep the axleshaft ends in place. I got a set of 1.5" hubcentric spacers to go on it, but after measuring, I realized that my leaf perches were 4" too narrow (2" on each side) of being able to work. So I modified some XJ rear swaybar brackets to work. These perfectly match the 1.5" wide leafs already on my trailer. I'll replace all the perches when I go to weld on the mounts for XJ leafs under it... way down the road.
Anyway.... my welds still suck... but they're looking better, and I definitely like the Lincoln wire better than the HF crap (thanks for the suggestion). Even SOUNDS better when welding with it.



I did these welds in pretty crappy light, so I'll probably end up going back and stacking a couple of beads over 'em.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I would grind most of those out and go with another pass. Keep the arc right on the leading edge of your weld puddle and keep it in the root of the joint. Keep your wire stick out at about 1/4". Slowly move the weld puddle right on through letting it burn in nicely. It looks like your running flux core, so its best to drag instead of pushing the weld puddle.
Just remeber the quality of the weld is determined on your prep and you have a great ground with your work piece. If you have both of those you'll see progress as you go.
Also never weld anything that has been cleaned with brake cleaner. It creates a toxic gas. I use rubbing alcohol to clean things up.
Just remeber the quality of the weld is determined on your prep and you have a great ground with your work piece. If you have both of those you'll see progress as you go.
Also never weld anything that has been cleaned with brake cleaner. It creates a toxic gas. I use rubbing alcohol to clean things up.
No, I don't lick fish.



Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I would grind most of those out and go with another pass. Keep the arc right on the leading edge of your weld puddle and keep it in the root of the joint. Keep your wire stick out at about 1/4". Slowly move the weld puddle right on through letting it burn in nicely. It looks like your running flux core, so its best to drag instead of pushing the weld puddle.
Just remeber the quality of the weld is determined on your prep and you have a great ground with your work piece. If you have both of those you'll see progress as you go.
Also never weld anything that has been cleaned with brake cleaner. It creates a toxic gas. I use rubbing alcohol to clean things up.
Just remeber the quality of the weld is determined on your prep and you have a great ground with your work piece. If you have both of those you'll see progress as you go.
Also never weld anything that has been cleaned with brake cleaner. It creates a toxic gas. I use rubbing alcohol to clean things up.



