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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 05:46 PM
  #16  
askingxforxit's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Cnwxj

That's a good buy! And a good welder.
Yup and it works perfectly!!
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 05:35 AM
  #17  
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look on craigs list i bought a miller 175 for 500 and i love it
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 12:17 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 89jeepfreak
i bought a miller 175
From what I hear most do.

Probably what I'll look at when I buy my replacement.
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 12:26 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 89jeepfreak
look on craigs list i bought a miller 175 for 500 and i love it
I just bought the Hobart equivalent. Little bit cheaper brand new and still made by Miller ...broke a shock mount 10 min later. Worked great
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 01:37 PM
  #20  
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i have the exact welder from the OP. Works great for me so far, have welded a door hinge back on and welded Clayton long arms to the frame with a pretty big gap in places without issue. Practice a little bit on some scrap before you use it, takes a bit to get used to the feed and heat. Now that I am used to it I can make pretty good welds. Like any welder, works best on well cleaned metal and tight gaps. On low heat I was able to weld a little bit on the thin sections of the unibody

Last edited by Hoooper; Mar 16, 2011 at 01:39 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 04:15 PM
  #21  
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my 175 was a good buy it was my grad present lol. the 210 and 250 millers are wickid welders but they are expensive. just keep lookin around and buy yourself a quality welder i wouldent get one from home depo or canadian tire any 220v should be good for bumpers and cages
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 04:49 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 89jeepfreak
my 175 was a good buy it was my grad present lol. the 210 and 250 millers are wickid welders but they are expensive. just keep lookin around and buy yourself a quality welder i wouldent get one from home depo or canadian tire any 220v should be good for bumpers and cages
home depot sells lincoln
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 06:30 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Cnwxj
Why would you use gas and flux core? It's one or the other. .035 is good for just about everything but 24ga, then I use .030. If you pre-heat your metal, you will get better penetration with the 110v. I had a handler140 110v and welded 3/16 all the time, it all how you prep anyway. Sorry just my .02
"
Flux Cored Wire Basics
There are two types of flux cored wires: gas shielded and self shielded. Gas shielded flux cored wires require external shielding gas and the slag is easy to remove. The operator may want to consider using gas shielded flux cored wires when welding on thicker metals or in out-of-position applications. Gas shielded flux cored wires have a flux coating that solidifies more quickly than the molten weld material. As a result, it creates a "shelf" to hold the molten pool when welding overhead or vertically up. Self shielding flux cored wire does not require external shielding gas; the weld pool is protected by gas generated when flux from the wire is burned. As a result, self shielding flux cored wire is more portable because it does not require an external gas tank."

Originally Posted by Cnwxj
If you take you're project to someone else to weld, how will you learn? I say save you're pennies get a good welder, and have the guy show you how to use it. Give a man a fish and he eats for a day. Teach a man to fish and he eats for a life time. Guess that makes .04

P.s. Flux core is for hand rails and flag poles. .06
WHAT TO CONSIDER WHEN CHOOSING SOLID OR FLUX CORED WIRE
Appearance
Many welding operators believe that weld appearance is an important factor. When you are working on materials less than 3/16 inches down to thin sheet metal (24 ga.), solid wire will produce a clean looking weld. For example, a short circuit transfer with .030-inch solid wire set at 18-19 volts with 160-170 amps and using 75 percent Argon and 25 percent CO2 shielding gas will usually produce little spatter, create a smaller heat affected area and reduce chances of burn-through. As a result, many automotive enthusiasts who specialize in bodywork or those who work with thinner applications prefer solid wire in their operations.
Location
The welder must also consider the location of the work site when choosing between solid and flux cored wire. There are certain environments such as windy locations, where solid wire or gas shielded flux cored wire cannot be used; exposing the shielding gas to wind can compromise the weld integrity. Typically the loss of shielding gas will produce porosity visible in the weld bead.
On the other hand, self shielded flux cored wire is ideal for welding outdoors or in windy conditions. The operator does not have to set up windshields to protect the shielding gases from being blown away because the shielding gas is generated from the burning flux. Since self shielded flux cored wire does not require external shielding gas, it is also more portable than solid wire. This portability is ideal in agricultural applications where field equipment can break down far from the shop. If you are welding thicker metals (16 ga. and above), self shielded flux cored wire also provides excellent penetration.
Thickness, Type of Application and Parameter Settings
Many novice operators attempt to use "a-one-size-fits-all" wire and shielding gas combination for multiple applications. The most common wire and gas combinations (for solid wire) are .035-inch diameter wire used with a 75 percent Argon and 25 percent CO2 shielding gas. When welding thicker material, however, consideration needs to be given to welding power source output, as well as welding wire diameter. If the .035-inch wire is selected for thicker materials, and the power source is one that is plugged into a 115-volt circuit, the resulting amperage output may not be sufficient to make quality welds. The chance of "cold lap" or "lack of fusion" may increase.
Attempting to use too small of a solid wire for thicker applications (such as on A-frames of an automobile), increases the chance of lower penetration in the root, and could require more than one welding pass. Misapplication of the solid wire (even though strong enough) may also not provide adequate penetration on thicker material.
Although more expensive than solid wire, flux cored wire could help you gain productivity. Flux cored wire typically has the ability to handle the welding of dirtier materials that may have higher levels of rust, mill scale, or oil. Although cleaning is always the proper method of preparing the steel, flux cored wires contain de-oxidizing elements that trap these contaminants in the weld pool and hold them in the slag coverage typically preventing the associated weld problems found when welding "dirtier" steels. Flux cored wire also increases penetration on the side walls and offers the advantage of better deposition rates (the amount of weld metal deposited in a given time period, measured in pounds per hour) when compared to solid wire. Although the operator is initially spending more on materials for flux cored wire, the savings are realized in the decreased production time.

Which is better, solid wire or flux cored wire?
Neither wire is superior over the other. They simply have different properties, which work better on certain applications. As far as performance is concerned, both types of wire produce sound welds with good weld bead appearances when applied correctly and used within the proper parameter settings. Solid wire provides deep penetration in the root and usually has little spatter. Flux cored wire has a larger ball type transfer and produces low spatter levels. In addition, flux cored wire produces a rounder penetration profile with excellent sidewall fusion.
As far as user appeal, both solid wire and flux cored wire are relatively easy to use and are ideal for novice and occasional welders working in automotive, farming and home hobby applications. Operator appeal on solid wire may be better on thinner applications because there is no slag to remove; it is ready to paint; and the weld beads may be more aesthetically pleasing.

source:

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...wire-selection


my suggestion to the original poster, go to a good welding shop and talk to someone that actually knows welding. Or, do some reading. i posted a link that should help you. As for my suggestions, go for a welder with infinitely adjustable wire feed rate and voltage (meaning there are no "clicks" in the *****, or switchs for hi/low selection). Also, I highly a welder that is capable of gas shielding. I would recommend going at least 130 amps. like the one in the following link:

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...roduct=K2471-1

also, if your really interested in how the GMAW process works, and how to do things, read this. this is the only book required in my first welding class, and it has a boat load of info
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/asset...ture/C4200.pdf



while im at it, the welders at home depot and other like stores do not have the infinitely adjustable ***** (read earlier in this post)... I suggest again, going to a welding shop. The welder i posted costs $675
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053
that one costs $525
compared to $150 it is alot, but your also buying a machine comparable to harbor freight.

Last edited by xSUx SGT BAKER; Mar 16, 2011 at 06:37 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 08:52 PM
  #24  
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Year: 1998
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I'm with Nicknowsu IMO 20% duty cycle would be a knut buster, thats only 12 minutes welding every hour. Hold out for 30% at least.
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 02:57 AM
  #25  
retreaded jeeper's Avatar
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From: milwaukee wi.
Year: 1993
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First-bigger is better,I have a HF 90ap 110v and have made winch bumper &etc
asdmittedly cutting off welds and redoing as much of the time time spent on your machine is the single most important element use it ,if you can weld gravel on a brick your'e all set
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