Swamp Donkey

Ive decided, sense ive got the tools and skill with welding, it'd be alot cheaper to build my own 3-link for my XJ. Im gonna do unibody stiffners, design the crossmember, then figure how i want my link mounts, most likely will be tucked. But i need some help from you guys on a few things who have experience with this. Im gonna be buying the Ballistic Joints, should i get the 3.0 or the 2.63, also which size shank would be best to get, how many do i need right hand thread and how many do i need left hand thread.. Also, which size dom tubing i.d. & o.d. should i use? Ive never done a 3-link, but im confident in welding and how to design, its just the accessories like the link parts that im not up to date with. Help and advice will be much appreciated.

sandaddik2

take a look at this,

itll most likely be the most important tool you will need to do it right
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=204893

second one down is for a 3 link setup

Swamp Donkey

Thanks for the link, i had been looking for it!

Here is what ive came to figure on ordering.. Im gonna 3-link it using 2x2 square 1/4" wall sense its gonna cost me over $100 for shipping if i order the DOM Tubing. I can pick up 20' sticks of 2x2 for $40 each.

Heres what is on my Ballistic Fab Shopping Cart
3 - 2.63" Ballistic Joints RH 1.25" stud
3 - 2.63" Ballistic Joints LH 1.25" stud

3 - 1.25" 12 tpi RH Jam Nuts
3 - 1.25" 12 tpi LH Jam Nuts

3 - 1.25" RH Square Tube Adapters
3 - 1.25" LH Square Tube Adapters

I relize alot of people run DOM, mostly has to do with looks, but im not about looks. If someone is under my Jeep pickin' it to death about something not looking good, then they are in the right position to get my foot in their a$$..

alloutperform

just got the same stuff finishing my LA this week i went with 2x2 arms...they are holding up well...i went with the 2.63 joints..they are nice i am converting my original lower design to joints at the crossmember...also i made my crossmember reall beefy but it takes up too much ground clearance...here's my biuld see what you like but read the advice.. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/longarm-build-70742/

alloutperform

btw the square looks badass

Swamp Donkey

Thanks for that, does give me some idea's. Yes your crossmember does hang down further then i want, i plan for mine to be tucked to the point ill have to cut out a section of the floor board for upper control arm clearence. Square tube its gonna be, its just as strong as DOM and alot cheaper!

xj^REMY

so cutting the floor for upper arm mounts, is to allow the lowers to be tucked up higher (for better under body clearance), or is it for better geometry to allow better articulation/travel??

Swamp Donkey

Both basically, the lowers will have more clearence while the upper control arm will not be restricted as far as up travel on the passenger side..

I Plan on my crossmember looking something like this...

alloutperform

beautiful man!!!! props on the fab work..where did you get the brackets from???

Swamp Donkey

That is a crossmember i ran across over on pirate while looking around for ideas on design. Lol, not mine.. Close to what ill fab up though.

alloutperform

ahh ok... well my redesign is close but not going through the floor i'm just making adjustable radius arms...you won't believe the change in ride over shortarms when you are done

Swamp Donkey

Oh i can imagine, my biggest reason for giving it a tummy tuck, is because im keeping the ride height at no more then 4.5"s with 35"s.. I aint to partial on chopping on the floor board, but its gotta be done and too, ill fab up a box inwhich will bolt over the hole.