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noob shackle relocation

Old 11-23-2014, 12:58 PM
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Default noob shackle relocation

I took a welding class about 2 years ago and haven't been welding since. With a weekend of no kids and wifes, I decided to mess around my rusty newbie welding skills. I set a goal to fab some shackle relocation...

I have an olde miller Dialarc 250 that can only do arc weld. It has been collecting dust since. I decided to give it a test before actually welding something for the Jeep, turn out I can't weld ****.








So I spent the whole Saturday burning electrode, trying to de-rust my welding skills. I get to the point I feel like I am welding something structurally sounds.








So I feel reasonably confident now. Here is the first weld. I am using 6010 and decided to have another run using 7018 on top of it. Also run another electrode inside the box... Will you trust it?


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Old 11-23-2014, 01:03 PM
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I know there are half a dozen of shackle relocation fab here already... but what the heck. Here are the rest of pics for those who's interested.











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Old 11-23-2014, 03:06 PM
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Finish the welding part...











The weld looks like ****. But I think it bond enough metals to make it structurally sound. Looking at the shackle box we have in our cherokee, I think it should be strong enough...
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Old 11-23-2014, 07:06 PM
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I am a booger weld expert so I'm going to keep my mouth shut on that but my question is have you measured the shackle to see if it'll fit inside that box channel?
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Old 11-23-2014, 08:28 PM
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You said you're running 6010...what technique are you using to lay down the bead? Whip and pause works best with 6010, and it is a deep penetrating electrode. Looks like you were trying to do a whip and pause (somewhat) then a weave pattern. I will be the one to say it: practice some more before committing to this project. Suspension can see some crazy forces, you want a good, solid bead laid down, especially on your root pass. If the outside of your welds look like that, imagine what they look like inside, probably full of inclusions...that will weaken the weld significantly. Not trying to burn you, just trying to help. You don't have a lot of material into the project yet, so find some scrap and practice, practice, practice...also, what amperage are you running at?
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Old 11-23-2014, 08:46 PM
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did you weld on the inside also?
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Old 11-26-2014, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by xjmarc View Post
I am a booger weld expert so I'm going to keep my mouth shut on that but my question is have you measured the shackle to see if it'll fit inside that box channel?
I need to shave down the shackle bushing a few mm to fit.

Originally Posted by roninofako View Post
You said you're running 6010...what technique are you using to lay down the bead? Whip and pause works best with 6010, and it is a deep penetrating electrode. Looks like you were trying to do a whip and pause (somewhat) than a weave pattern. I will be the one to say it: practice some more before committing to this project. Suspension can see some crazy forces, you want a good, solid bead laid down, especially on your root pass. If the outside of your welds look like that, imagine what they look like inside, probably full of inclusions...that will weaken the weld significantly. Not trying to burn you, just trying to help. You don't have a lot of material into the project yet, so find some scrap and practice, practice, practice...also, what amperage are you running at?
I was about to post some pics of the finishing product, but you are right.
I don't have any confident driving the truck through potholes. Its not just supporting the 3800lb, its the force that pound on the joint when it hit the pothole. It's n times bigger than the stationary weight its supporting. Although it doesn't break, I feel like I am riding a time bomb. Like you said, I will probably practice, and I will do it again in clydesdale's style with several grade 8 bolt&nuts between two piece of metal as a fail safe.

Yes whip and pause and a weave pattern. I was using 100amp. I should've heat up the metal more and lower the amp?

I am going to skip the pictures of the finishing product since it's not a success. The next pics will probably a cut through the weld to see how bad it is.
Originally Posted by stang65 View Post
did you weld on the inside also?
Yes, but it's not worth mentioning. Its harder to lay good bead inside. I will consider its only a bit stronger than switches of tack weld. I thought they way I put the upper piece will have more metal bonding area compare to clydesdales. I think he has already thought it through.
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Old 11-26-2014, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by yorkee View Post
I need to shave down the shackle bushing a few mm to fit.



I was about to post some pics of the finishing product, but you are right.
I don't have any confident driving the truck through potholes. Its not just supporting the 3800lb, its the force that pound on the joint when it hit the pothole. It's n times bigger than the stationary weight its supporting. Although it doesn't break, I feel like I am riding a time bomb. Like you said, I will probably practice, and I will do it again in clydesdale's style with several grade 8 bolt&nuts between two piece of metal as a fail safe.

Yes whip and pause and a weave pattern. I was using 100amp. I should've heat up the metal more and lower the amp?

I am going to skip the pictures of the finishing product since it's not a success. The next pics will probably a cut through the weld to see how bad it is.


Yes, but it's not worth mentioning. Its harder to lay good bead inside. I will consider its only a bit stronger than switches of tack weld. I thought they way I put the upper piece will have more metal bonding area compare to clydesdales. I think he has already thought it through.
Don't be embarrassed to put up photos, it shows us what you're doing, and we can advise you better. Your amps are a little high, but workable...usually run between 80-90 amps on 6010, so you're not too bad there...I would say in this case, just practice some more...try welding in different positions, too, the best way to get a good bead is time behind the hood. Keep us posted on your progress.
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Old 11-26-2014, 10:45 AM
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https://www.youtube.com/user/welding...dtricks/videos

Watch every video. Multiple times. Soooo much information that has helped a lot of people out there just like you and I.

Weld on my friend.
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Old 11-29-2014, 06:53 AM
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If you can get some miller 80T+AC rod, it does a pretty nice job & cleans up well. Just a heads up for future projects.
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Old 12-01-2014, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by roninofako View Post
Don't be embarrassed to put up photos, it shows us what you're doing, and we can advise you better. Your amps are a little high, but workable...usually run between 80-90 amps on 6010, so you're not too bad there...I would say in this case, just practice some more...try welding in different positions, too, the best way to get a good bead is time behind the hood. Keep us posted on your progress.
Will do! thanks for the advise. That said time is hard to come by...



Originally Posted by JeepMN View Post
https://www.youtube.com/user/welding...dtricks/videos

Watch every video. Multiple times. Soooo much information that has helped a lot of people out there just like you and I.

Weld on my friend.
Thanks for the link!

Originally Posted by Hammered View Post
If you can get some miller 80T+AC rod, it does a pretty nice job & cleans up well. Just a heads up for future projects.
Will give it a try. I would probably stick with one type of rod and get very handy with it... wish I have 6013.

Well, here are the rest of pics:

After clean up, drilling all the holes


Painted, trying with the shackle


How much I have go grind down the bushing


Installed, test fitted


Hook up with shackle and spring



On its own weight


How it looks afterward



New metal supposed to be ordered to make relocation box v2.0 but I missed the golden period (thanksgiving holiday) to work on any welding!

I can't reverse it to stock because the bolt hole in the original box has been "loosen up"... The dangerous box will probably stay there for a while... that said, the truck will probably sit here for a while and I won't drive it unless its absolutely necessary...

hopefully I get some time to work on it xmas. otherwise it will be sometimes in spring

Last edited by yorkee; 12-01-2014 at 04:44 PM. Reason: Adding photos
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Old 12-01-2014, 04:55 PM
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Thanks for the props Bud.
I'm glad our video helped you out.
I did weld every seam, inside and out. Maybe I should have showed more of that in the vid.
Boxing in the front and having a bolt through it made it a lot more ridged too.
Keep up the good work Pal.
I like how you started your own thread on this.
Subed.
And if your welds don't turn out, grind 'em out and do it again. There's no shame in that.
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Old 12-04-2014, 05:45 AM
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If I remember correctly it seems there used to be a 7018 AC rod on the market. When I had an AC buzz box I used some with great results. Also on this forum I have never heard mention of anyone using the local high school vocational welding classes to do any of their welding. I know here where I live the "trade School" as we call has an outstanding teacher and some of the kids are job ready welders way before they get out of high school. They are all the time doing projects and welding on things for people. Most of the time for free. Just a thought I had. Ive got 23 years exp at an electrical generating facility in maintenance. The old "its ugly as hell but strong" saying is bull crap. You have got to make every bead count. Esp when you are driving this thing down the highway. Not to seem critical but just encouraging everyone that welds on a component that is going to be on a vehicle to be extremely cautious.
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Old 12-11-2014, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by clydesdale View Post
Thanks for the props Bud.
I'm glad our video helped you out.
I did weld every seam, inside and out. Maybe I should have showed more of that in the vid.
Boxing in the front and having a bolt through it made it a lot more ridged too.
Keep up the good work Pal.
I like how you started your own thread on this.
Subed.
And if your welds don't turn out, grind 'em out and do it again. There's no shame in that.

Your video is very informative and it inspire me to do my own relocation. If you ever in Detroit area I have to buy you a drink because I owe you one (And I know what you like to drink!)

I start looking at some of your videos and its entertaining and informative (I will not order brake line from RC for that matter) I will have a pbr on hand while watching the next chapter


Originally Posted by shum8 View Post
If I remember correctly it seems there used to be a 7018 AC rod on the market. When I had an AC buzz box I used some with great results. Also on this forum I have never heard mention of anyone using the local high school vocational welding classes to do any of their welding. I know here where I live the "trade School" as we call has an outstanding teacher and some of the kids are job ready welders way before they get out of high school. They are all the time doing projects and welding on things for people. Most of the time for free. Just a thought I had. Ive got 23 years exp at an electrical generating facility in maintenance. The old "its ugly as hell but strong" saying is bull crap. You have got to make every bead count. Esp when you are driving this thing down the highway. Not to seem critical but just encouraging everyone that welds on a component that is going to be on a vehicle to be extremely cautious.

Yes I agree with you. The only thing you can confirm rather your weld is strong enough is either x-ray or cut the weld. Neither is a real option for DIYer. So one has to have his trust and faith on his own weld and every bit counts.




hopefully I can get some work done during xmas... but I doubt it
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