My roof rack build
#1
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter
My roof rack build
I built the rack out of 1 inch square tubing. there is about 70 foot of tubing altogether.
I will mount 4 lights across the front with two smaller ones on the rear for reverse.
It was the highlift mounted on the driver side and a shovel mount on the passenger side.
I used 6 of the JCR gutter mounts.
the rack has a provision built in to carry the spare on top till I have a chance to build my rear bumper/tire carrier.
I used etching primer (2) and flat black spray paint (4).
I will mount 4 lights across the front with two smaller ones on the rear for reverse.
It was the highlift mounted on the driver side and a shovel mount on the passenger side.
I used 6 of the JCR gutter mounts.
the rack has a provision built in to carry the spare on top till I have a chance to build my rear bumper/tire carrier.
I used etching primer (2) and flat black spray paint (4).
#3
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
How much did all of that tubing cost? Also what are the dimensions of the rack? I really like how this looks and will probably base mine off of this.
#4
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter
the tubing was $60, it is 1 inch square tubing. I miter cut the corners so that all the corners are closed in.
The measurements are:
rack width- 50 inches
rack length- 72 inches without counting the light hoop
legs between the top and bottom tubes- 2 3/4 inches
JCR Gutter mounts- 6 mounts were used rather than the commonly used 4 by many builders.
the light hoop- adds 7 inches in diaginal length to the front. I did not care for how most others weld the light hoop to the front of the rack because it just seems as a weak link in my opinion. As you can see with mine i used a solid tube that runs diagonal all the way back to the base tube of the rack and then the top tube of the rack is welded onto it. The total length of that tube is 19 inches from its attachment point on the bottom tube to its leading edge above the lights. That measurement will vary based on the size of lights you intend to use. I built it in mind to eventually hold teh 6 inch diameter lights such as KC. So in essence now my light hoop is welded into the base, not just the leading edge of the rack. Its welded in points of contact are (1) the base tube, (2) the front leg, (3) the top tube, and (4) the top cross tube. So basically 4 point of weld in. That light bar will be able to take a hit.
the legs- between the bottom tube of rack to the top tube are 2 3/4 inches. I wanted to keep the rack from being too tall and the top rail is intended to be a lashing rail for me. Many other racks on here the builders put 4 or even 6 inches making the racks to tall in my opinion. as it is, my rack stands 8 inches high from the gutter mount to the top of the rail and it is 11 inches from the gutter mount to the top of the light hoop.
For the flooring: I used more square tubing and put a tube on center every 12 inches the full length. some people use mesh but I opted for the tubing on mine.
The racks intention: is to be able to carry what ever gear I will use on camping expeditions without it being intrusiveon size to fit into smaller places and of course the height was an issue so that it could go into the garage. As it is with my fullsize spare (33/12.50R15) I only have about an inch of clearance when pulling into the garage when its on the rack. It has strength in mind as far as light protection and for staying mounted to the jeep. I like that I used tubing rather than mesh because I can easily tie things to the rack easily where mesh can be hard to thread ratchet straps through (especially with my fat fingers).
The measurements are:
rack width- 50 inches
rack length- 72 inches without counting the light hoop
legs between the top and bottom tubes- 2 3/4 inches
JCR Gutter mounts- 6 mounts were used rather than the commonly used 4 by many builders.
the light hoop- adds 7 inches in diaginal length to the front. I did not care for how most others weld the light hoop to the front of the rack because it just seems as a weak link in my opinion. As you can see with mine i used a solid tube that runs diagonal all the way back to the base tube of the rack and then the top tube of the rack is welded onto it. The total length of that tube is 19 inches from its attachment point on the bottom tube to its leading edge above the lights. That measurement will vary based on the size of lights you intend to use. I built it in mind to eventually hold teh 6 inch diameter lights such as KC. So in essence now my light hoop is welded into the base, not just the leading edge of the rack. Its welded in points of contact are (1) the base tube, (2) the front leg, (3) the top tube, and (4) the top cross tube. So basically 4 point of weld in. That light bar will be able to take a hit.
the legs- between the bottom tube of rack to the top tube are 2 3/4 inches. I wanted to keep the rack from being too tall and the top rail is intended to be a lashing rail for me. Many other racks on here the builders put 4 or even 6 inches making the racks to tall in my opinion. as it is, my rack stands 8 inches high from the gutter mount to the top of the rail and it is 11 inches from the gutter mount to the top of the light hoop.
For the flooring: I used more square tubing and put a tube on center every 12 inches the full length. some people use mesh but I opted for the tubing on mine.
The racks intention: is to be able to carry what ever gear I will use on camping expeditions without it being intrusiveon size to fit into smaller places and of course the height was an issue so that it could go into the garage. As it is with my fullsize spare (33/12.50R15) I only have about an inch of clearance when pulling into the garage when its on the rack. It has strength in mind as far as light protection and for staying mounted to the jeep. I like that I used tubing rather than mesh because I can easily tie things to the rack easily where mesh can be hard to thread ratchet straps through (especially with my fat fingers).
#7
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
hows the rack holding up? I got some rustoleum hammered paint. if I have to get primer I will, but I'm not sure if i have to, it says I don't need to on it. I really like the look of the square tube rack, especially on white cherokees.
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#8
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter
looks great. It is holding up well without any issues. I recommend the primer if for no other reason... it is cheap insurance on rust and keeping the rack looking good.
#9
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Year: 1998
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yeah, idk, I'll have to talk to the guy who's welding mine and ask him how this paint holds up. he painted his bumper with it and it looks good.
#12
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter
I had a pair of the high lift brand 4xjack mounts ( i think thats what they are called? as for the tire mountI used a piece of all thread and t-handle wingnut that I made to hold the spare in place on the rack. For the shovel I have 2 bolts on the rack that the shovel slides over with wingnuts holding it. I drilled a hole in the handle of shovel for the bolts to go through it. Just kep all that as simple as possible
#13
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
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alright, well I think I'll just be using some sort of u-bolt and drill holes setup when I get my roof rack and stuff to mount on there. thanks for the info, your rack inspired me to build mine. I'm not even joking about that. thanks for the inspiration
#15
Senior Member
i like the roof racks that have the design of going all the way front to back. ill be building one similar to it
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