Mig welding tips
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6,588
Likes: 495
From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
Sound is the key and practice. Adjust the feed and voltage so you get a sound that is as close to sizzling bacon as you can get. The next thing comes with experience. It i called penetration. On thicker material, you want a hotter weld so that it melts into the metal. That is where the strength of the weld is. Otherwise, your weld will act more like glue. It is different for each job. MIG welders are not good at overhead welding. The molten steel just drops down your sleeve. You need to practice a reverse stitch. You start a little ahead and weld back to what is welded. Stop, then do it again. Same for going vertical up. You can weld vertical down but not with good penetration. Sometimes you can go horizontal, sometimes you need to do the reverse stitch. Sheet metal should be stitch welded to cut down on the heat and reduce distortion. Learn to tack everything together first before doing heavy welds. Tacks should be on both sides of the pieces being welded. When the weld cools, it pulls the parts out of where you had it when starting. The tacks take care of that. I bought an auto darkening helmut and that has been real handy. Helps you see what your doing.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,199
Likes: 1
From: Britt, MN
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Weaving mostly pertains to stick welding to me. Anytime i welding with wire i adjust my travel speed to the size of weld that i want. Maybe just a slight side to side movement in the groove but that is something that should come to after practice when you get the feel for what the weld is doing and you are able to see that you are getting good penetration.
Have fun and best of luck with your newfound hobby. Hope that Clark works for you
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,199
Likes: 1
From: Britt, MN
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Sound is the key and practice. Adjust the feed and voltage so you get a sound that is as close to sizzling bacon as you can get. The next thing comes with experience. It i called penetration. On thicker material, you want a hotter weld so that it melts into the metal. That is where the strength of the weld is. Otherwise, your weld will act more like glue. It is different for each job. MIG welders are not good at overhead welding. The molten steel just drops down your sleeve. You need to practice a reverse stitch. You start a little ahead and weld back to what is welded. Stop, then do it again. Same for going vertical up. You can weld vertical down but not with good penetration. Sometimes you can go horizontal, sometimes you need to do the reverse stitch. Sheet metal should be stitch welded to cut down on the heat and reduce distortion. Learn to tack everything together first before doing heavy welds. Tacks should be on both sides of the pieces being welded. When the weld cools, it pulls the parts out of where you had it when starting. The tacks take care of that. I bought an auto darkening helmut and that has been real handy. Helps you see what your doing.
You'll love your first auto darkening helmet also!
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6,588
Likes: 495
From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
I respectfully disagree with your statement about welding overhead. Overheading welding can be done with great success with anykind of wire. You are pushing too much wire if the weld is falling down your sleeve. Or i should say pushing too much wire for your voltage. Making a vertical down weld that must be strong should only be done with solid wire. If you use self shield or dual shield the slag (although you might not see it) is getting trapped in the weld if you weld down. When welding vertical up with FCAW i use a very slight side to side motion as i move up the plate. I move side to side no farther than the diameter of the wire. Travel speed is key. Sorry... This might be getting over the newer welders head.
You'll love your first auto darkening helmet also!
You'll love your first auto darkening helmet also!
I do have an auto darkening helmet
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 886
Likes: 0
From: Olean NY where salt eats jeeps
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Another thing is if your weld cooled is "poriuos/holey" your weld is dirty due to uncleaned metal welding in the wind(that's a no-no). clean your spot good of rust,paint,greese etc and dont go to fast but dont go to slow, make sure you penetrate both metals good. Beveling your metal works great
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,199
Likes: 1
From: Britt, MN
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Grinder, sanding pad, etc. Self shield wire actually will burn threw primer pretty decent with, light oil, light rust etc. w/o getting porosity. To get rid of grease and other combustables heat the steel up hot with a torch-don't breath the fumes. One great point that i forgot about is cleaning with brake clean. It does a great job cleaning but the fumes can POISON or KILL you!! Thank you for reminding everyone FrankZ!
also be aware of the metal your welding... the fumes from some metals being burnt are terrible for you. always wear a shade 10 or higher welding shield. listen to the weld while doing it. PRACTICE!!! if its thick then put a bevel on it and do multiple passes. keep it very clean. the prep is very important. when mig welding your wire size determines how far away to hold the tip.(.45= 1/2", .35=3/8" and so on) usually you want a 15* angle when welding. half moons, circles, v's its what your comfortable. if you want to make your welds REAL clean with not a lot of splatter (Flux Core) then consider converting to gas. and most of all.......HAVE FUN welding can get frustrating so just believe you can do it. It takes time to be good. ( I'm in college right now for welding!!
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 850
Likes: 0
From: Roswell, NM
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Best advise I can give you that these guys havent already is to choose a lens suitable for your vision. A purchased helmet comes with a Shade 10 Black lens in it, but there are others available. My hood has a Shade 9 Gold lens in it for MIG. Most other processes I use a Shade 10 Gold or Black depending on the process. IMPORTANT THING TO REMEMBER! If when you get done with a weld and you lift your hood and see spots...YOU NEED A DARKER LENS! Make sure you change it immediately as this could cause you to go blind. Main thing is have fun PUSHING PUDDLES!
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,199
Likes: 1
From: Britt, MN
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
also be aware of the metal your welding... the fumes from some metals being burnt are terrible for you. always wear a shade 10 or higher welding shield. listen to the weld while doing it. PRACTICE!!! if its thick then put a bevel on it and do multiple passes. keep it very clean. the prep is very important. when mig welding your wire size determines how far away to hold the tip.(.45= 1/2", .35=3/8" and so on) usually you want a 15* angle when welding. half moons, circles, v's its what your comfortable. if you want to make your welds REAL clean with not a lot of splatter (Flux Core) then consider converting to gas. and most of all.......HAVE FUN welding can get frustrating so just believe you can do it. It takes time to be good. ( I'm in college right now for welding!! 

Thanks for all the tips guys. Ill post up some weld pics whenever I get around to welding something lol
Practice young man, practice!
Sorry, old joke but it applies.
No speacial tips needed for different shaped metal, just practice your technique.
Welding vertical isn't too bad, just practice on some scrap and see which direction works the best for you. I prefer top to bottom. Overhead can be a really pain in the keester so once again....practice.
Try different speeds, power setings, and tip movements.


