Originally Posted by AlchemyXJ

Ok so just to put your guys minds to rest. Its a 300 watt inverter. I have the link for the exact inverter i used on my build thread https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/my...-build-100478/
The inverter actually comes with a much smaller switch than the one that i put on. And since i increased the distance on the switch and outlets i used a substantially thicker wire to avoid voltage drop.

The thing to remember is that the car is only putting out 12 volts dc out of the cigarette lighter its the capacitors and resistors in the inverter that are bringing it up to 110 volts ac. So you can get away with almost any switch because its cutting the power in not power out.

Also as an added safety the unit has a built in fuse incase it gets to much power to it.

I'm probably going to be putting in a larger inverter for the back of the car if i don't end up doing a sound system but we'll see. I'll keep you posted.

Originally Posted by Hoooper

wut? you have to input the same wattage to the inverter regardless of the voltage, only difference is that the 12VDC requires more amperage to get to the same wattage as 120VAC, 10x more. Plus the internal losses in the amp. If you are running a constant 300W from that thing at any point, you are drawing a constant load of over 30A on the 12VDC side. The fuse is not going to keep the switch from melting either, theres no relation there. The switch in the inverter I can promise is either (1) wired to a relay, or (2) rated for well over the amp draw (likely 150% but IDK). You can take the advice or leave it, but if your switch has a meltdown you will know why

Originally Posted by Mendax13

How Much do you think it would cost to Herculine/Rhino line an entire 4dr XJ? im seriously considering coating my entire jeep in liner inside and out so the little bastards up the street cant key my car and not to mention tough on the trail. just wondering if anyone could give me an estimate?

Originally Posted by Hoooper

wut? you have to input the same wattage to the inverter regardless of the voltage, only difference is that the 12VDC requires more amperage to get to the same wattage as 120VAC, 10x more. Plus the internal losses in the amp. If you are running a constant 300W from that thing at any point, you are drawing a constant load of over 25A on the 12VDC side. The fuse is not going to keep the switch from melting either, theres no relation there. The switch in the inverter I can promise is either (1) wired to a relay, or (2) rated for well over the amp draw (likely 150% but IDK). You can take the advice or leave it, but if your switch has a meltdown you will know why

Originally Posted by somethingclever

YA Buddy ... CB in the dash. It's out of the way and looks good.(to me at least) What do u guys think thumbs-up or what. Didn't take to long eather bout an 1hr.

Originally Posted by AlchemyXJ

I have no idea what belkin has done to accommodate the power that goes through the switch all i can tell you is the switch that i have put on it is much larger than the one that was on there and that i have been using this set up for over 2 years now and its not given me any issues or melted down or got hot or anything. They know what they are doing all i did was extend some wires and made it pretty.

Originally Posted by MudMann94

i like the cb idea

Originally Posted by somethingclever

Thanks I liked the over head style also but this was a lot more easy to do and no cord hanging down to hit you in the face

Originally Posted by Hoooper

wait, so you used the wires that were originally wired into their switch? thats a big difference and should definitely be clear in the writeup

Originally Posted by Slick761

Haha ya but you could hang a semi style airhorn cable next to it :-)

Originally Posted by FrankZ

In no particular order.


Flat Fenders




That's enough I guess.

Originally Posted by 98 brutus

Those look like bushwackers... flat syle