When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I want to do exactly that! But have a part that folds over the rear seats when they are folded down so there is more headroom for sleeping in the back because it will go over the seat bottom that is sticking up when folded. Does that make sense? And also a table that folds out with a stand that goes onto the ground for support so I can eat/cook on it for example. And build an insulated and cooled/heated compartment for food that when you want to use it you put ice under it and a cpu fan that keeps the air moving conditioned).
I want to do exactly that! But have a part that folds over the rear seats when they are folded down so there is more headroom for sleeping in the back because it will go over the seat bottom that is sticking up when folded. Does that make sense? And also a table that folds out with a stand that goes onto the ground for support so I can eat/cook on it for example. And build an insulated and cooled/heated compartment for food that when you want to use it you put ice under it and a cpu fan that keeps the air moving conditioned).
Sounds awesome. Just maybe sure to anchor it so it stays put.... or do what I did and use the weight too keep it in place
I suggest securing cargo box to floor and adding eye bolts to secure loads. I used the factory tie-downs, and wood screw/fender washer through underside of jeep. Eye bolts to secure cargo. (I have a little boy that rides in the back so I make sure to secure everything).
Table cantilevers off of bumper. It's 3/4" plywood and I can sit on it.
Sounds awesome. Just maybe sure to anchor it so it stays put.... or do what I did and use the weight too keep it in place
I was thinking of beefing up the anchor points in my trunk and attach the thingy to those anchors. That way it won't slide around when wheeling and I can take it out when I want.
I suggest securing cargo box to floor and adding eye bolts to secure loads. I used the factory tie-downs, and wood screw/fender washer through underside of jeep. Eye bolts to secure cargo. (I have a little boy that rides in the back so I make sure to secure everything).
Table cantilevers off of bumper. It's 3/4" plywood and I can sit on it.
Hahaha I saw your post right after I posted the same exact idea I have a little sister that rides in the back of mine. and I'm a major "better safe than sorry" kind of guy so my tool box and road side emergency kit is tied down securely also.
In middle picture of my previous post #1143, you can see a fender washer and screw, through stock tie-in and attached to upright of box. Material that is 1" wide will rest up against wheel well and fit snug to tie-ins.
These pics are eye-bolts. In floor and sidewalls. Mounted to interior sheet metal where it is doubled or tripled, also with fender washers.
I suggest securing cargo box to floor and adding eye bolts to secure loads. I used the factory tie-downs, and wood screw/fender washer through underside of jeep. Eye bolts to secure cargo. (I have a little boy that rides in the back so I make sure to secure everything).
Table cantilevers off of bumper. It's 3/4" plywood and I can sit on it.
I noticed the need for that even though it weighs over 100lbs unloaded..... went wheeling this afternoon and had the loaded storage system jump up and drop back down.
Originally Posted by LiamLikeNeeson
I was thinking of beefing up the anchor points in my trunk and attach the thingy to those anchors. That way it won't slide around when wheeling and I can take it out when I want.
Using 1-1/2" pipe clamp brackets from my work, drilled a 3/8" hole and tacked a bolt through. Bushings were made from a $0.99 rubber mallet using a hole saw and band saw to cut pucks out. Factory tire hold down handles. Carriage head bolts through the back pan of the seat and secured with 3/8" fender washers and nylock nuts.
Using 1-1/2" pipe clamp brackets from my work, drilled a 3/8" hole and tacked a bolt through. Bushings were made from a $0.99 rubber mallet using a hole saw and band saw to cut pucks out. Factory tire hold down handles. Carriage head bolts through the back pan of the seat and secured with 3/8" fender washers and nylock nuts.
Here is where I mounted my switchs. They are sideways but work great there and don't have to worry about spilling liquid on them.
Saw your switch location and that is exactly where I want mine, but I plan on using rockers from this site. They have several styles and you can choose to have the image rotated 90 deg. like shown here.
Using 1-1/2" pipe clamp brackets from my work, drilled a 3/8" hole and tacked a bolt through. Bushings were made from a $0.99 rubber mallet using a hole saw and band saw to cut pucks out. Factory tire hold down handles. Carriage head bolts through the back pan of the seat and secured with 3/8" fender washers and nylock nuts.
Great homebrew man. I might just have to borrow that idea. Can you feel the bolts at all through the seat padding? My kids sit back there quite a bit.
Great homebrew man. I might just have to borrow that idea. Can you feel the bolts at all through the seat padding? My kids sit back there quite a bit.
I really like that idea also. However kids in the back present an issue. The jack is very heavy, seat latch is not strong and is attached to chassis by three small screws on each side. If a frontal incident should occur, the seat catches could release/give out and momentum of jack could fold the kids in half.