From what i see, the hooks are bolted to the nutstrip (1/2 x 2 stock), not the thin piece under the frame rail. That "ragged" thin piece is basicly like a large washer. He's also got a "gusset" runnin almost the full length of the 1/2 x 2 piece inside the frame rail. Its kinda hard to see, but i think the 1/2" thick plate with gusset looks like a piece of angle with the side trimmed off near the hook. Only thing i might change would be to add a couple bolts thru the frame rail into the gusset and tie the 2 sides together for better side load strength.

Looks good tho. Nice job

 

I can't see any of that in the pics.

if it is as you say, he still needs to tie them in to either the frame or each other with side bracing for side pulls. not every pull is a direct drag, and it's those pulls that end up with people in the hospital from improperly mounted tow points.

 

if this helps explain it, the 1/2 strip is basically an extended nut strip that has the tow hooks on it, and the angle iron look comes from the gusett that runs the length of the "nut strip" its tied into the frame pretty well from what i can see. thats super similar to the way almost all aftermarket bumpers tie in, and if you have any doubts if it will hold, they tie into the frame just like COS's bumper and i have no doubt in his fab work.

 

...except that on any full bumper, the parts are not seperate. I.E. tied together.


if it is as you say, then the ONLY improvement you NEED to do is brace the two "nut strips" to each other.

 

i think itll be just fine, its tied in better than the factory option for a rear tow hook, ill pull you any day all day longisland

 

not really. factory rear tow hook bolted onto the side of the class 3 hitch. the class 3 hitch mounted to all of those points, plus each mount was joined together by 2x2 going across, and the tow hook was bolted through the driver's side of the class 3 hitch's side mount.

it was tied together. that is stronger.

and no, I don't think you'll be pulling me around. I generally don't need it...not even when I bend a front axle so bad that it has to be cut in half to cut the gears out (put over 400 miles on it).

 

well considering that you DIDNT have to have a rear hitch to have the factory tow point option and it was only a few bolts that held the rear tow point on, id say these are much stronger, and when i said " id pull you any day all day longisland" that means that i would have no issues pulling on longislands tow points, ya kno since that comment was addressed to him

 

I guess I didn't read it well enough...because it's obvious that he's not gonna take 15 minutes to make it as strong as it should be.

I've parted out plenty of cherokees...only ones I've had with tow hooks, had factory rear hitches...and the hook was ON the rear hitch.

 

that setup is 100 times beter than the after market tow point you can buy

I would only be concerned about side puling you because of the hook
they don't hold the strap right for side pulling
the mount themselves look very strong

 

the rear hitch hangs down so the stresses are different them being tied together makes it strong
even though they bolt to the same place the loading its not the same

 

my opinion exactly id pull on that with no worries what so ever

 

Thanks guys, I like all the feed back.

I have been very busy at work saving up $$ for my 1st vacation in seven years. NC 12 bound

I feel the mounts are pretty damn strong, but tying them together would sure as not hurt.

So next Saturday I'll get back to my post

 

and that's what I'm saying longisland.

let's put it this way...if you lived near me, I'd say come on over...I'll gladly prove that I can rip it apart or out of the frame rail on flat ground.

 

lmao id pay to see that!!!

 

and you'd probably like to see the cherokee I'd use to do it