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floor is rotting out

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Old Mar 29, 2010 | 08:47 PM
  #16  
pops96's Avatar
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From: nanticoke pa
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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i figure since my trucks ripped apart already im goin to cut out my rotted out rockers and put in some 2x6 steal and tie it into my unibody and add some floor support
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 02:23 PM
  #17  
Lightfoot's Avatar
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From: Strongsville, Ohio
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 l
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I used 3"x6"x 3/16" tube for my rockers and am working on my floor.
I bought floor panels but should have made some.
I had to buy the floor in 4 pcs.
Attached Thumbnails floor is rotting out-dscn1690.jpg  
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 04:00 PM
  #18  
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From: Alabama
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by pops96
im fightin the same battle. i went to a local metal supplier and bought a 4x8 sheet of cold roll 18g for the front floors and a have a piece of 1/4 " aluminum dimond plate that in going to rivit into the cargo area and use auto body apoxy for the seems the cover the whole floor with herculiner
wow that's alot of rust....I also noted the 2 bottle sitting there in the second pic lol
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 09:45 PM
  #19  
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From: nanticoke pa
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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matt i filled half a shop vac cleaning the rust out of the fram rails lol.... and the 2 bottles was only the begining. im just waiting on so good weather so i can start burning so sheat to the poor think hahaha
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 02:25 PM
  #20  
Kaul's Avatar
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From: Somerdale, NJ
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Lightfoot
I used 3"x6"x 3/16" tube for my rockers and am working on my floor.
I bought floor panels but should have made some.
I had to buy the floor in 4 pcs.
The spots the rear leaf springs meet with my jeep's body is where mine is rotting out. I WAS planning on a lift soon, but it looks like I'll be tackling this first. How difficult was it to get to the spring perches and put some new material down?
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 08:06 PM
  #21  
Lightfoot's Avatar
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From: Strongsville, Ohio
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 l
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I did not think it was to hard. Just real dirty with all the rust. When you have the floore off make sure you fix the spring bolts if they are rusted in.
The nuts for the spring mounts broke loose from the frame and had to be rewelded. If I did it again I would just use some 14 ga or 16 ga and make floore parts.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 05:06 PM
  #22  
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From: Chicago, IL
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO K&N FIPK2, Gibson chrome headers
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Just finished my pan patching as well. Have a few holes left under backseat and @ gas tank fill tube arch. It's a pain in the ***, especially grinding all that rubber sealant glue away.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 05:20 PM
  #23  
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From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
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im so glad i live in GA and dont have to worry about floors being shot out... my 89 had like 4 quarter size holes... lol
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 12:17 AM
  #24  
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From: Somerdale, NJ
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Well, according to what I'm seeing in these pics, the rear spring's front perch is not directly supported by the floor, but rather from the fram and just kind of welded to the floor. And I haven't torn the seat out or the carpet up yet, but it looks like only the outer (read - outside downward facing part) body is rotting out, so I may be able to just fix that. There's a place here in PA called The Jeep Shop, I'm going to give them a call and see what they cost to fix it, even though I'd love to, but seeing as I have no welder and little experience on it I'm stuck.
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 11:12 PM
  #25  
electropunk42's Avatar
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From: Michigan
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Litre
Default My floor project:

This is my first post... so I would like to show some pics of my floor rust repair.

I removed as much of the rust and rusty metal as I could, then liberally applied rust reformer primer before installing the panels.

I do not have welding skills, so I used screws, rivets, and industrial adhesive to secure (and seal) the panels into place. I used repair panels that can be purchased from a local company in Redford MI called Classic 2 Current that fabricates the panels right at their shop.

Before installation, I sprayed the panels with 3 coats of standard automotive primer.

During and after installation, I used a spray on truck bed coating. I also sprayed the entire underside with undercoating after the job was finished.

I also fixed a common problem with the power windows by fixing a corroded wire, and relocated the wiring harness that goes under the carpet to along the underside of the dash with zip ties.

There are additional pictures in my gallery.












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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 02:54 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by butcher_shawn
the the front and rear seat floors are rotting out. what is the best way to fix the problem without killing my wallet
find a buddy or someone with a welder and some decent fab skills, then buy some 16gauge sheet metal and have them replace it, then give em a case of beer or something as payment for their work.

where are you located btw?

Originally Posted by 92xjr
I had to do that this past winter, I got some 1/8" tread plate and replaced the entire passenger and driver side from front to back with it. I was worried about the weight of it but it wasn't too bad. I put a bunch of plug welds on the frame rails, welded it to the forward facing leaf spring mount and welded to my rock sliders(which are in place of my rocker panels) It worked out well I only had one leak!! forgot to put one of the bolts back in for the rear seat belts....easy fix

Good luck!!

found some pictures hope it helps...





do you have any idea how badass that is?

so much so that it makes me want to cut out my perfectly good floors and do that. that stuff with bedliner over it and drain holes would be DANK.

Originally Posted by Lightfoot
I used 3"x6"x 3/16" tube for my rockers and am working on my floor.
I bought floor panels but should have made some.
I had to buy the floor in 4 pcs.
how much did you pay for the tube?

the diamond plate on your threshholds is legit.
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 04:20 AM
  #27  
_StationWagon_'s Avatar
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From: USA
Year: 1999
Engine: l6 4.0, K&N FIPK & 62mm bored TB
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Originally Posted by ZachsXJ
that stuff with bedliner over it and drain holes would be DANK.
So ... is "dank" the new "sick"?

Y'know, I think red XJs rust more than others ...

Originally Posted by pops96
matt i filled half a shop vac cleaning the rust out of the fram rails lol.... and the 2 bottles was only the begining. im just waiting on so good weather so i can start burning so sheat to the poor think hahaha
I think you typed this after the whole six pack!

Last edited by _StationWagon_; Aug 8, 2010 at 04:23 AM.
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 06:23 PM
  #28  
Lightfoot's Avatar
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From: Strongsville, Ohio
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 l
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I think I paid $250.00 for the 24' tube. Then had it cut into 6' pcs to make it easier to get home. I used 2 pcs for my rockers and made my rear bumper with one and the last one will be front bumper someday.
I had local shop bend the dimond plate for me.

I did bedline over the floor and the rockers after I was done.
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 07:30 PM
  #29  
The Desert Fox's Avatar
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From: vegas
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4oh
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is the floor pan the same in a 96 as it is in a 99? because i found a 99 with perfect floors at the jy and i plan on taking it all for my floorectomy tomorrow.
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 01:47 AM
  #30  
shlein69's Avatar
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From: Nebraska
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O.
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I have the same problem with my 94 Cherokee Sport. I almost don't know where to start. The rocker panels are trash and about 90% of the floor is rust! It's my daily driver, so its going to be tough to pull out the carpet and seats and get it all done. Probably do one side at a time. going to a salvage yard to find a good floor or part of a floor is a great idea! I love this site! So many excellent ideas. Thanks!!!
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