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Dana 60 builld

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Old Dec 1, 2010 | 06:06 PM
  #1  
94xjstud's Avatar
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Air Intake and TB Spacer
Default Dana 60 builld

I have a build thread but figured I would post this in here too.

So I'll start with the axle - 96 Ford HP balljoint dana 60 with 5.13's already




I ordered this (waiting for it to show up) http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...bo_p_1461.html

Started some work on the leaf springs


To


The stock upper coil bucket is 36.5", from inner C to inner C on the Dana 60 is 45.5". Which means that for a perfect coil placement the center of the coil needs to be 4.5" from the inner C on both sides. Unfortunetly that is not possible due to the amount of room between the diff and inner C.

I took some measurements and did some math. ( I did not factor in the .25 bracket width so the measurements are rough but . . . )


I am going to grind off about .25 off of the coil mount to get it closer to the diff. So in total I expect the center coil mount to center coil mount to be 38" to 38.5" making the springs outboarded by .75 to 1" on both sides.

This is the best way I can figure it out, but I am open to any and all suggestions comments.

I will be welding the tubes to the remaining mount for strength

I will update as progress occurs
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Old Dec 1, 2010 | 06:38 PM
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From: South Louisiana
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when you say grind off .25 on the BF bracket you mean make it thinner? if it was me i'd modify one of the brackets that would normally mount to the axle tube so that it welded to the diff where the axle tube slides in and the other bracket mount would weld to the tube. i think you'd be able to get the right distance like that. that's what i would do (if i'm understanding your problem correctly?)
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Old Dec 1, 2010 | 07:00 PM
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That's one of the problems with the later ford 60s. Lower control arm mounts will be a bear as well. I'm currently building an 80s model and they have a little bit more tube. The 78-79 models are best and have plenty of tube to mount to but run 1200 bucks for one that needs rebuilt around here. You may have to raise the coil buckets on both sides and weld to the housing. Just make sure you heat it well (IE glowing) before hand or use nickle rods, otherwise the welds won't hold. Ask me how I know that.
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Old Dec 1, 2010 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by xjmarc
That's one of the problems with the later ford 60s. Lower control arm mounts will be a bear as well. I'm currently building an 80s model and they have a little bit more tube. The 78-79 models are best and have plenty of tube to mount to but run 1200 bucks for one that needs rebuilt around here. You may have to raise the coil buckets on both sides and weld to the housing. Just make sure you heat it well (IE glowing) before hand or use nickle rods, otherwise the welds won't hold. Ask me how I know that.
How? When dealing with suspension components I'm sure it wasn't a good experience...
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Old Dec 1, 2010 | 07:10 PM
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From: Soddy Daisy TN
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Tore off the upper mount coming off a 6' ledge and the axle turned down and made it hard to steer back to the trailer for some trail welding.
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Old Dec 1, 2010 | 07:37 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by tactical40cal
when you say grind off .25 on the BF bracket you mean make it thinner? if it was me i'd modify one of the brackets that would normally mount to the axle tube so that it welded to the diff where the axle tube slides in and the other bracket mount would weld to the tube. i think you'd be able to get the right distance like that. that's what i would do (if i'm understanding your problem correctly?)
I mean grinding the diff side of the bracket down so the coil mount will be 5.75" wid instead of 6" wide.

The main problem is there just isn't enough room. I thought about griding the bracket to fit, but the same thing would happen either way.

Originally Posted by xjmarc
That's one of the problems with the later ford 60s. Lower control arm mounts will be a bear as well. I'm currently building an 80s model and they have a little bit more tube. The 78-79 models are best and have plenty of tube to mount to but run 1200 bucks for one that needs rebuilt around here. You may have to raise the coil buckets on both sides and weld to the housing. Just make sure you heat it well (IE glowing) before hand or use nickle rods, otherwise the welds won't hold. Ask me how I know that.
I considered raising the mounts, but I would need to raise them about 2" to get 1" more room, so it doesn't seem worth it and I dont want 3+" mounts (looks like crap).

I plan on heating it up really good.

Originally Posted by xjmarc
Tore off the upper mount coming off a 6' ledge and the axle turned down and made it hard to steer back to the trailer for some trail welding.
One thing I am trying to avoid, but I will be 3-linked with the upper on the Passenger side.
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Old Dec 1, 2010 | 08:09 PM
  #7  
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Good luck! I'll be keeping an eye on it! Lol
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 09:09 PM
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So I got all of the brackets/hiems/steel for the cross member and should be starting the mock up fairly shortly here, but I have a problem . . .

I am in the midst of disassembling the front, but I cannot find the right size Dana 60 hub/wheel/spindle socket. I have been through 3 different ones at my local parts stores, but they are all alittle to small.

It is spindle nut is 4 prong and about 2 3/8 big. Does that sound right and does anyone have an actual part number?
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 09:15 PM
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if i remember correctly it is bigger then the standard 1/2ton warn tool...you may have to order it in, i know OTC sells it...carquest sells that brand of tool
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 09:17 PM
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No joke, I think I've got some in my tool chest at work, got a box of free stuff a while back, I'll take a picture tomorrow, let me know, if so I'll give you the info off of them.
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