So I am wondering what the plusses and minuses are of running a 3 link? I have a custom long arm setup already with the adjustable uppers still mounted in the factory brackets. Is it possible to run a 3-link with a factory mounted upper or is a radius arm required?

 

You currently have a 4 link. Take away one upper arm...thats a true 3 link. Benefit of 3 link is that you dont get any binding as you flex. This allows the axle to rotate fully without putting pressure or deflecting the bushings to get full flex. I am very happy with mine rockkrawler 3 link, it performs great! Radius arm is not required, but im not sure about using the stock location. My upper arm mounts just in front of the tc crossmember.

 

I have seen that kit and looks pretty nice although I'd rather not switch from the teraflex long arms im using now. and I don't have anywhere on the t case i could mount a longer upper arm. I just don't want to remove and upper link to make it a three link and cause any problems with caster angles or extra stress on the axle tube

 

i would say yeah, but make sure that upper arm is a strong unit cause its gonna take a lot of abuse.

 

does the three link set up pose any problems for caster though?

 

A three link in itself does not necessarily pose problems for castor. If you are going to go to a three link, use an adjustable one and then if you have a castor problem, just adjust it.

 

Check out these 2 links for pros and cons on 3 link

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techart...t_1/index.html

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techart...t_2/index.html

 

I run a custom three link with a radius driver side arm and straight passener side arm. The upper is adjustable for castor and I have a heavy duty crossmember, I also added a crawler joint in the upper mount on the pumpkin which helps flex as well.

You could weld a braced mount to the driver side lower and add a adjustable upper arm there and it would be the same idea essentially.

 

Morningwood: the tale of a woody waggy

This is a decent little three link build

 

i'm sorry, but you will have to explain how your design works. with the one side in a radius arm setup, the axle can't rotate on the 3rd link (upper) like a 3 link should. I would think that its putting a ton of twisting force on your axle tubes where they go into the pumkin.

I've done tons of research on good 3 link setups because i'm currently building one for myself.

Also, to the guy asking about using the stock upper location, first of all, if you have long lowers and short uppers, your pinion angle is changing drastically when flexed. I'd check and make sure you don't end up popping your u joint out of your yoke on the axle. Same would apply with a 3 link setup like that. You need a certain amount of vertical separation from lower to upper links, both on the frame end and the axle end. also the upper should be about 70% the length of the lowers. To build a true working 3 link with minimal stress to components and propper pinion angle changes throughout the flex cycle, the upper link will end up coming up through the floor and into its own link mount down by your feet. Sounds crazy, i know...but thats how it works.

hope nobody gets offended with what i say, i just have tons of hours of research and trial and error on these things.

 

I have had no issues with this setup and it flexes great.
A local guy in the area built a bunch of these and no one had any issues with this design at all. I think the krawler bushing and how it functions helps with rotation quite a bit.

 

Your setup is a y-link long arm running only one upper instead of two. It is still a good design and works, but doesn't allow the full movement as a real 3-link would. 3-links have three arms coming off the cross member, and having them all be free of each other is what helps give it the added movement and allows it to not bind up.

I used to run a custom y-link long arm setup, but now I'm running a custom 3-link.

 

that may be true but I dont believe I have any binding issues at this time so this setup works great. Your right it was a bad suggestion for this guy as it wont really help him out at all. The y link setup is a tried a true setup and works well though so I stand by it. If your setup properly you dont have to worry about binding.

 

There is a good chance you don't have binding issues. Y-links are great setups and definitely a good product for most people. I wouldn't have ditched mine for a 3-link if I hadn't done my full width swap.