2x6 (+1”) Rocker Mod
#1
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
2x6 (+1”) Rocker Mod
Before I started this mod I searched ALOT here and other sites for details on how to do it. Tips, issues that arose, ideas for modifying the doors, etc. we’re hard to find. So I figured I’d make a post on how I did it, so here we go!
First I removed my doors, seats, interior trim and just the rear of the front fender. Also removed the tires for working room.
I marked where I wanted to cut. Note that the cut line in the door sill area is approximately 1 1/4” from the seam that supports the door seal. More on why later.
Take your time marking your cut lines. It’s far easier to cut more than to add more!
Rear wheel well cut lines.
Front wheel well cut lines
Rear wheel well cut lines.
Front wheel well cut lines
First I removed my doors, seats, interior trim and just the rear of the front fender. Also removed the tires for working room.
I marked where I wanted to cut. Note that the cut line in the door sill area is approximately 1 1/4” from the seam that supports the door seal. More on why later.
Take your time marking your cut lines. It’s far easier to cut more than to add more!
Rear wheel well cut lines.
Front wheel well cut lines
Rear wheel well cut lines.
Front wheel well cut lines
#4
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Initial cut
Note the “lip” I left just inboard of where the seam was.
I left the fender on for a reason. I’ll be able to mark and cut it in place for better accuracy.
Note the “lip” I left just inboard of where the seam was.
I left the fender on for a reason. I’ll be able to mark and cut it in place for better accuracy.
#5
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
I used a flappy disc to make the cut flush with this “pan” area.’ There is a downward lip after the cut that you want smooth and flush.
Look for and grind smooth any protruding welds, bumps, etc. so the tube will fit flush with the upper “pan” area.
The rear wheel well area is the most challenging to get flat and flush with the rest. Use a straight edge and some patience...
This is how ya want it.
Look for and grind smooth any protruding welds, bumps, etc. so the tube will fit flush with the upper “pan” area.
The rear wheel well area is the most challenging to get flat and flush with the rest. Use a straight edge and some patience...
This is how ya want it.
#6
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Next I trimmed the 2x6, 3/16” wall tube. 64” long was perfect for mine. I’m doing a multi angle cut on the rear for maximum tire clearance. I’m currently running 35’s with a 3.5” lift and only very light rubbing at full flex. I need all the room I can get!
This is what the cut looks like done. The front will get a simple 45 deg angle cut. I will be enclosing both ends. That’s as far as I got today.
This is what the cut looks like done. The front will get a simple 45 deg angle cut. I will be enclosing both ends. That’s as far as I got today.
Trending Topics
#8
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
I made a little more progress today.
Marking the cut for the front fender.
Always double check your measurements, got it right the second time 😋
Marking the cut for the front fender.
Always double check your measurements, got it right the second time 😋
#9
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Finished capping the 2x6 tube. Placed it up against the Jeep and made an index mark.
I just lined up the rear with my cut & fold rear fender.
I just lined up the rear with my cut & fold rear fender.
#10
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Ok, now we start on the +1” part. I will be tieing my exocage into these so I needed enough room to anchor a 1.75” tube to it. The 2x6 tube doesn’t stick out far enough for that. The 2x8 sticks out to much. They don’t make a 2x7, so....
The tube index’s against this body line below the doors. Since I needed one more inch...
I welded a 1x1 piece of tubing to space out the 2x6.
This is how it fits up. Make the tube as long as the body line it index’s to. This also allows more room for seatbelt bolts and such. It’ll be just as strong as the 2x6 as only a portion of the 2x6 actually contacts this area. Plus I’ll be adding bracing to the frame stiffeners and mini boat sides later.
Front fit is a little harder to see.
I welded a 1x1 piece of tubing to space out the 2x6.
This is how it fits up. Make the tube as long as the body line it index’s to. This also allows more room for seatbelt bolts and such. It’ll be just as strong as the 2x6 as only a portion of the 2x6 actually contacts this area. Plus I’ll be adding bracing to the frame stiffeners and mini boat sides later.
Front fit is a little harder to see.
#11
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
All clamped into position and ready to start fabbing up the braces to the frame stiffeners. Look close and you’ll see why I cut the door sill 1 1/4” out from the door seal seam. That way it’ll help cover the seam between the 2x6 and 1x1 tubes. I’m hoping to install the sill covers if I have enough room when I’m done 🤞
#14
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter