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Chevy wheel bearings need fix

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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 10:09 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Illuminator
I believe they fit both 2 and 4 wheel drive, so they can make one part thats more universal, thus saving them money.
what happens when you run a wheel bearing without a stub shaft (4wd) or a "dud stub" (2wd) is this:



it needs a piece in the splined area as that holds the wheel bearing together.

in the jeep it a stub with a flat back side (instead of a yoke) and an axle nut.
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 10:28 PM
  #17  
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It doesn't need a stub shaft or dud stud. GM doesn't use them. Majority of the wheels bearings they use are this way. Hell, Go pull the front tires off a new Camaro. You will find the front hubs have splines in them.

Last edited by bmxkid415; Aug 6, 2011 at 11:18 PM.
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 05:48 PM
  #18  
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i did my cherokee myself last few days! auto zone will rent you the big socket free! pay $20 bucks; return it get $20 bucks back! eat big breakfast!
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 06:06 PM
  #19  
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Might want to check on that sheet with the recomendations on it.... I've been in auto industry a long time, & 1600$ is way way way way to much for just bearings! You sure they didnt say ball joints are bad as well? The Bearings shouldve onle been held on by like 3 bolts!!!!!!! Normally only 100/150 per side for labor!
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 06:34 PM
  #20  
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The shop quote was for both wheel bearings/ hubs and an alignment. The parts( wheel bearings/ hub) was the big ticket item from dealer over $500 each! Got the parts from a local ac delco dealer, their national brand which I believe are what the factory used on hds, on half tons I believe they use timkin. They still weren't cheap about $300 each, I found cheaper ones online but didn't want to risk poor quality. Put them on last weekend wasn't that bad, took some time but nothing complicated. The truck is a 2010 so rust wasn't an issue. Only special tool needed was a 1/2 " torque wrench(it's a two wheel drive). Didn't do the alignment as I don't think anything I removed would have messed with it. The bearing assembly and hub are together and there is a speed sensor, it's a whole unit, I guess that's why there were SO expensive, but probably why they were easy to replace.
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 07:18 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Illuminator
The shop quote was for both wheel bearings/ hubs and an alignment. The parts( wheel bearings/ hub) was the big ticket item from dealer over $500 each! Got the parts from a local ac delco dealer, their national brand which I believe are what the factory used on hds, on half tons I believe they use timkin. They still weren't cheap about $300 each, I found cheaper ones online but didn't want to risk poor quality. Put them on last weekend wasn't that bad, took some time but nothing complicated. The truck is a 2010 so rust wasn't an issue. Only special tool needed was a 1/2 " torque wrench(it's a two wheel drive). Didn't do the alignment as I don't think anything I removed would have messed with it. The bearing assembly and hub are together and there is a speed sensor, it's a whole unit, I guess that's why there were SO expensive, but probably why they were easy to replace.
That's horrible if you had to replace bearings already! How many miles? I don't align my vehicles after a new hub assembly.
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 07:30 PM
  #22  
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Sounds about right for the mark up the parts department puts on the stuff. (its just down right insane on some things) I need to get on that gravy wagon, a front end alignment after wheel bearings. That would be sweet to get.
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 08:35 PM
  #23  
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I think my estimate was $800 from the dealer. The Timken bearing was $200 and a bit of my time. And you're fine without the alignment. There isn't anything there that will cause an issue. This was also the same dealer that told me my solid rear axle had too much toe-in after I lowered it.
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 08:54 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by GMTURBO
I think my estimate was $800 from the dealer. The Timken bearing was $200 and a bit of my time. And you're fine without the alignment. There isn't anything there that will cause an issue. This was also the same dealer that told me my solid rear axle had too much toe-in after I lowered it.
Toe-in, hahaha. You shoulda asked them how to adjust it.
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 05:25 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by jcwclm

That's horrible if you had to replace bearings already! How many miles? I don't align my vehicles after a new hub assembly.
The trucks got around 117,000 miles, but still not real happy about both of them needing to be replaced. The last truck we had was a '07 chevy 3500 silverado classic (miss that truck). We put about 317,000 miles on it and we never had to replace the wheel bearings on it.
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